Sealing the windows

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96commander

Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2021
Messages
10
Vessel Name
Springer
Vessel Make
Californian 34
Any suggestions on sealing the windows on a 1979 Californian 34? They started leaking once I stripped the old varnish off I want to reseal them before I varnish. Thank you
 
3M 4200 or 5200(more permanent), or Sika 291.
NEVER silicone. Don't allow silicone on a boat. Especially don't allow it near glass.
 
You might look into some epoxies that penetrate into the wood like the epoxy from Smith & Company. It is very thin like water. It will soak into the wood and seal the wood. It takes multiple coats and you just keep putting it on until it won’t take anymore. I used it on a previous boat and it worked well. Then apply varnish to protect the epoxy since most epoxies don’t have UV inhibitors in them.
 
What Dave said. I have another brand which works identical to the Smith & Company, tried to find it on the net but as you can imagine when I look for window sealants for boats all kinds of products pop up.

I have a wooden boat and my boat windows are sliders and come to a pointy end. Here is a pic of my boat before the refit, boat still pretty much looks the same, most of the refit was in the interior. But you can see how the windows are configured:

Ship details

My only beef with the product is in one location you might need to use it literally 20 times or more. Where all of the leaks from my windows occur are at the pointed ends where all manner of wood join together.

After I bought my first bottle of the stuff and went through it, I bought about 8 bottles of the stuff. I have a routine now, I show up to the boat, give the pointy ends of the windows a shot of the stuff, then just before I leave another shot of the stuff, I do this many times till the leak stops.
 
Although generally agree no silicone on boats Silpruf 2000 is excellent for port light rebedding. Also folks have had good luck with Dow 795. Trick as usual is prep. Get every last bit of the old stuff out. Have used dental tools to avoid damaging the trim. Then dry, dry, dry. Have used compressed air which also helps getting residual debris out. Then apply carefully leaving no air gaps even if you need to use a tongue depressor or better yet a like shaped piece of plastic. Mask well before starting and clean up is easy.
The wood repair should be done first. Dry and a sealant. Any thinned epoxy will work. Even captain tolly crack repair in the little white bottles will work. But as said above wood needs to be bone dry so you get capillary action.
Before starting need to answer.
Is the wood rotted. If so can you get by with just get rot.
Is it wet behind the wood. If so then above applies and the port light needs rebedding as described and underlying structure assessed/repaired as needed.
 
Captain Tolly, that is what I use.
 
I am in the process of replacing my focsile windows with plexiglass. What do guys recommend for bedding the plexiglass in?


Bud
 
I use Sika 295UV to bed polycarbonates. I have had good success with it. Put some on 4 years ago and it is still fine.
 
I am in the process of replacing my focsile windows with plexiglass. What do guys recommend for bedding the plexiglass in?


Bud

Are they going to have any mechanical securing going on or just the bedding?
 
I use Sika 295UV to bed polycarbonates. I have had good success with it. Put some on 4 years ago and it is still fine.
I concur, Sika product are very good. I use 291 lot and was very happy. Just be well prepared with rags and everything yo need so you don't mess.

L
 
I started using Sika products about 5 years ago and like them much better than the 3M products.
 
CPES. Clear penetrating epoxy sealer.

Sika products expire, like a bucket of yoghurt, often you can still use them after expiry but if you do, expect a solidified product.
 
CPES. Clear penetrating epoxy sealer.

Sika products expire, like a bucket of yoghurt, often you can still use them after expiry but if you do, expect a solidified product.

3M products expire in 12 months and they go off in the tubes also.
 
3M 4200 or 5200(more permanent), or Sika 291.

NEVER silicone. Don't allow silicone on a boat. Especially don't allow it near glass.



Thank you, much appreciated
 
Captain Tolly, that is what I use.
+1
I used it too and it works. It did remind me of an automotive product 'seal all' which looks the same, worked the same. Should I need this again will try seal-all first as it is a fourth of the cost.
 
CPES. Clear penetrating epoxy sealer.

Sika products expire, like a bucket of yoghurt, often you can still use them after expiry but if you do, expect a solidified product.

both Sika and 3M will last a week after opening, just don't expect them to last longer than that. Waaay cheaper to buy the expensive tiny tubes, so you only use what you need, then throw them away.
 
I rebedded the windows in my old 1977 42' Californian. They were trimmed with wood vs aluminum, but I found this article from the late David Pascone very helpful, anyway:

-- https://www.yachtsurvey.com/WindowRepair.htm

Just to be clear why I was offering this up...

When the boat is underway, there is, by nature, a lot of flexing of fiberglass and some flexing of wood -- but extremely little flexing of glass. When it comes to sealing something rigid to something flexible, the old saying, "The bigger the glob, the better the job" often applies. The amount of movement the seal can accommodate is often related to its thickness.

A thin, cosmetically pleasing bead of sealant, under perfect conditions, isn't super likely to be able to take the flexing for a long time. When one adds surfaces that are, to some extent, contaminated and degenerated, the odds of a long life go down even more.

So, I don't think you are likely to see complete success for a long time by sealing the windows from the outside. If you seal the window-wood interface, I think you'll still get water via the wood-house interface. If you seal that, the wood-wood interface on the frame. And, in some amount of time, even where you did achieve a seal, I think the seal will start to fail in places.

I'm also suspect that the leak didn't start when you stripped the varnish. Instead, I suspect that it just got a heck of a lot worse at that time and became noticeable to you.

Many of those Californians (and similar trawlers) have slow leaks that get the wood around the window damp, then it softens, then it rots and/or the termites find it, then it weakens some more. Then things flex some more. Then one really starts to have it staying really wet on the inside, discoloring the interior wood, or even water just dripping down the inside of the house in heavy rain. Ewwww. But, really common. How many boats have you seen with stains under the windows? They began before they began, and once they were thought to be bad enough to address -- they were too far gone to address easily.

I'd do, as I did, what Pascone suggests, which is to remove the outer trim, remove the glass, clean out the caulking, and rebed. It really wasn't that bad a job, except for the number of windows involved (and I didn't do them all).

In my case, I didn't always fully rebed. In most cases, I left the glass in place and cut out a ton of the old sealant and anything that looked bad, then rebedded it in place. Then I covered the fiberglass house with masking tape and the surface of the trim with masking tape, applied more sealant, and squished it right down and screwing it in, wiping away what squeezed out. It solved the problem.
 
I`ve had success storing part used tubes of Sika 291,and other polyurethane sealant brands, in the freezer.
 
I`ve had success storing part used tubes of Sika 291,and other polyurethane sealant brands, in the freezer.

+1. But then you have to remember that they are in the refer...
 
Are they going to have any mechanical securing going on or just the bedding?

Yes I screwed it in with butyle tape behind it. I now want to put caulking on the outside.

Bud
 
Any suggestions on sealing the windows on a 1979 Californian 34? They started leaking once I stripped the old varnish off I want to reseal them before I varnish. Thank you

I just stripped and varnished (Cetol) the port windows on my 42. For the outside and inside edges of the exterior frames I have used BoatLife LifeSeal with good success. I use Black on the glass and white on the fibreglass.

Tape both sides of the joint with maybe a 3/16 inch gap and then apply the sealant, smooth with finger and pull tape immediately for nice clean edges.

I would never ever ever use 3M 5200 or 4200 for this application.
 

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