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Old 11-16-2023, 11:17 PM   #81
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Thanks Peter. That is the plan. I am now on a work schedule with 3 days off a week so some multiday trips will be upcoming without having to burn vacation days.

I just ordered materials to make the V berth cushions as well.
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Old 12-15-2023, 11:24 AM   #82
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Sorry for slacking on the posting. I have been very busy figuring out the house bank/inverter system on my bench for the last 5 weeks now. Here are two videos regarding that system as well as a short cruising video of our day out last Friday. Next up will be V berth cushion making. I just used some Scrim cloth to pattern the V berth cushions. The V berth cushions might be harder than the Epoch Victron set up..lol.





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Old 12-15-2023, 12:00 PM   #83
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Cool, I'll need to follow your cushion making. I don't need cushions but need some reference on making some sheets/covers for the v berth.
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Old 12-15-2023, 05:52 PM   #84
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Cool, I'll need to follow your cushion making. I don't need cushions but need some reference on making some sheets/covers for the v berth.
Good lord I dont know if you should be following me on anything regarding sewing.

But, I will try my best to cover how I did it. Ill have to make some sheets too. Just tryi g to do the scrim cloth patterning was a near disaster. I unfurled a sheet of scrim cloth that was twice as big as the v berth and was nearly trapped in a ball of plastic. I should have used the general dimension I had and cut a rough sheet 1 foot longer on all edges and then took that to the v berth for marking.
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Old 12-16-2023, 09:06 AM   #85
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Check out the Sailrite videos on YouTube on "30 minute cushions." The Sailrite site has a pattern making app that simplifies things. One of the directions to really follow is the use of basting tape. It is double-sided tape that when sold as basting tape is expensive. When sold as "1/4 inch double-sided craft tape" is one-tenth the cost. You will need several rolls for the V berth. A walking foot sewing machine is still better, but basting tape goes a long way in helping keep the upper and lower fabric even. The pattern is 1/2 inch smaller than the foam, so besure and tack stitch all stress areas (like the zipper ends). Fitting the foam in the finished cover takes almost as long as the sewing.
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Old 12-16-2023, 02:07 PM   #86
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Check out the Sailrite videos on YouTube on "30 minute cushions." The Sailrite site has a pattern making app that simplifies things. One of the directions to really follow is the use of basting tape. It is double-sided tape that when sold as basting tape is expensive. When sold as "1/4 inch double-sided craft tape" is one-tenth the cost. You will need several rolls for the V berth. A walking foot sewing machine is still better, but basting tape goes a long way in helping keep the upper and lower fabric even. The pattern is 1/2 inch smaller than the foam, so besure and tack stitch all stress areas (like the zipper ends). Fitting the foam in the finished cover takes almost as long as the sewing.
Yes, I made all my box cushions for the interior watching the video everytime Thats also where I learned about the basting tape. It works great but occasionally gums up the needle if you get into it while sewing.

I started with a Singer Heavy duty home model. Then had a Sailrite LS1Z and now have the Seiko walking foot with clutch motor. Now if I could just get my skill level up a notch or two.

Going through this excercise will help.
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Old 12-31-2023, 10:18 PM   #87
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V berth cushions in work. Took them to the boat a bit ago for test fit and very happy. putting the hull angle in added a ton of space. 108 inches at the widest point. 6 inch foam. It was very comfy. Now to select some fabric.
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Old 01-06-2024, 09:15 PM   #88
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Last testing done on the Lifepo4 Epoch 960AH batteries before taking everything apart and clearing the bench. Next up is making the V berth Keyhole wood pieces. They are already cut and coating with wood penetrating epoxy. I will put several layers of fiberglass on them to make them more stiff and then paint white.

The fabric for them showed up today so I am very much looking forward to sewing again.

Here is a boring long video of testing the Epoch batteries with a decent load (150 amps) all the way to 0% SOC and then all the way to battery shut down. I just wanted to test this on the bench just to observe the behavior, see what warnings, see what shuts down in the Victron side and see how the batteries shut down. Very happy with the way things worked out. And I now have more confidence in the entire system. I also know what to expect if I find myself in this situation.
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Old 02-05-2024, 12:59 PM   #89
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Side tracked a bit from the V berth and Lithium/house rewire to make a nice improvement to my DIY dry bilge. Sometimes DIY is great but other times there is a product that cost a bit but you just cant beat it.

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Old 02-05-2024, 05:02 PM   #90
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Just got some kind of blurb today showing me some Wirefy "Solder Seal" connectors. No need to crimp and you end up with a waterproof shrink solder connection. And a video showed that one can shrink/solder using just a Bic lighter. Dang. Gotta get me some.

So what do you think is underneath the fiberglass layer in the bottom of our bilges? Too much volume in the keel for filing with resin and fiberglass. Cement? Lead shot? My prior owner screwed into it 3/8" when mounting the bilge pump and that seems to be okay, but I'd still like to know what's in there.
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Old 02-05-2024, 05:49 PM   #91
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Just got some kind of blurb today showing me some Wirefy "Solder Seal" connectors. No need to crimp and you end up with a waterproof shrink solder connection. And a video showed that one can shrink/solder using just a Bic lighter. Dang. Gotta get me some.

So what do you think is underneath the fiberglass layer in the bottom of our bilges? Too much volume in the keel for filing with resin and fiberglass. Cement? Lead shot? My prior owner screwed into it 3/8" when mounting the bilge pump and that seems to be okay, but I'd still like to know what's in there.

I really dont know for sure. I am assuming cement. And I assume its capped with the fiberglass in some way. If that is the case then of course that chamber would be captive as far as I can tell. And I have heard more than once where people figured out they had fluid in that area and that it would occasionally gurgle out a screw hole or crack and be quite foul. Just not somethng I want to deal with. So I try not to put holes in the keel floor.

It would be nice to know if it was lead or cement though.

I have some of those solder seal connectors. They do work but I reserve them for tiny wires for the most part since crimps are so difficult with very small wire. The regular old Wirefy shrink crimps and shrink tube are great though.
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Old 02-05-2024, 09:05 PM   #92
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Just got some kind of blurb today showing me some Wirefy "Solder Seal" connectors. No need to crimp and you end up with a waterproof shrink solder connection. And a video showed that one can shrink/solder using just a Bic lighter. Dang. Gotta get me some.

So what do you think is underneath the fiberglass layer in the bottom of our bilges? Too much volume in the keel for filing with resin and fiberglass. Cement? Lead shot? My prior owner screwed into it 3/8" when mounting the bilge pump and that seems to be okay, but I'd still like to know what's in there.
A bic lighter is a poor instrument for those connectors. Youíre better off with a heat gun or gas fired heat gun with a deflector on the end that directs the heat all the way around the joint. Even then, it will take some practice to make good connections. Not saying to steer clear, just temper your expectations. Not sure where they fall in the world of abyc either. They arenít just solder because of the heat shrink, but might be a gray area.
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Old 02-06-2024, 10:14 AM   #93
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A bic lighter is a poor instrument for those connectors. Youíre better off with a heat gun or gas fired heat gun with a deflector on the end that directs the heat all the way around the joint. Even then, it will take some practice to make good connections. Not saying to steer clear, just temper your expectations. Not sure where they fall in the world of abyc either. They arenít just solder because of the heat shrink, but might be a gray area.

I purchased a bunch of those connectors as well. My concern is that if they "fuse" at such a low temperature, what happens if the resistance is high enough to heat up the wire? (which is shouldn't do if you used the correct sized wiring in the first place, but let's just suppose, shall we?) Will the material that melts, do just that in this case? Can't be good . . . . .
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Old 02-06-2024, 11:15 AM   #94
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I purchased a bunch of those connectors as well. My concern is that if they "fuse" at such a low temperature, what happens if the resistance is high enough to heat up the wire? (which is shouldn't do if you used the correct sized wiring in the first place, but let's just suppose, shall we?) Will the material that melts, do just that in this case? Can't be good . . . . .
A concern I had as well. I would only consider using them in low amperage situations. Thereís no way Iíd use them on my 120 volt systems, or primary dc systems. Control wires would be ok.
I wonder about the re-melting of the solder. Would the heat shrink contain it and let it re-harden? The circuit should remain intact with the wire ends in a liquid solder bath.
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Old 02-06-2024, 11:45 AM   #95
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A concern I had as well. I would only consider using them in low amperage situations. Thereís no way Iíd use them on my 120 volt systems, or primary dc systems. Control wires would be ok.
I wonder about the re-melting of the solder. Would the heat shrink contain it and let it re-harden? The circuit should remain intact with the wire ends in a liquid solder bath.
This is how I use them as well. Something like signal wires or the like.
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