USB Charging - The latest

[HeadedToTexas]

Perhaps there is no interest in this subject here.

Don't sweat it, SB. There are all sorts of deep dives on tech stuff. It means a lot those into that, and less to others. This is great stuff. Thank you.

 

[sbman]

i recently put in a couple of these.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MYHFBL4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

there's a 3.0 outlet and a pair of regular ones. only 36 watts available but it works fine for my phone and many other misc. usb devices we have. i have a small farm of the plug in usb power supplies in the nav drawer just in case.
they are a common size, and cheap enough to replace them when the time is right. it's bonus not to have all those power supplies hanging off the wall outlets all the time.

That one would be OK to add three standard USB ports in a single 1.25" hole, but it doesn't meet the higher power output I'm looking for, or the direct USB-C connectivity. There are areas where I could see this device being useful though. I will likely end up with a combination of outlet types for different areas.

I had originally intended to just use 12V accessory sockets and plug in various adapters as someone mentioned previously, but I've done this extensively in other environments and find it to be unreliable with the sockets getting loose and the adapters themselves being poor quality.

I'll be ordering a couple of options this week to try out. I've boiled it down to two basic requirements, must fit into a standard 1.25" hole so I can always swap in a different unit easily, and must be 30W or greater on a single USB-C port. I'll accept units that split the 30W over multiple ports as long as if you only plug one it, it has the full 30W available.

 

[Bmarler]

That one would be OK to add three standard USB ports in a single 1.25" hole, but it doesn't meet the higher power output I'm looking for, or the direct USB-C connectivity. There are areas where I could see this device being useful though. I will likely end up with a combination of outlet types for different areas.

I had originally intended to just use 12V accessory sockets and plug in various adapters as someone mentioned previously, but I've done this extensively in other environments and find it to be unreliable with the sockets getting loose and the adapters themselves being poor quality.

I'll be ordering a couple of options this week to try out. I've boiled it down to two basic requirements, must fit into a standard 1.25" hole so I can always swap in a different unit easily, and must be 30W or greater on a single USB-C port. I'll accept units that split the 30W over multiple ports as long as if you only plug one it, it has the full 30W available.

let us know what ones you end up with. personally, i don't need the dedicated usb-c port, yet, but i'm sure the need could arise. for now everything i have uses the original large port for the power end.

 

[sbman]

let us know what ones you end up with. personally, i don't need the dedicated usb-c port, yet, but i'm sure the need could arise. for now everything i have uses the original large port for the power end.

Will do, I was planning to do a bit of a review of the ones I get and try. I've been getting rid of any device that has the old micro connector, I hated those things. The C connector is so much better. The large A style ones are OK but are still fiddly with the up/down orientation thing.

 

[Bmarler]

Will do, I was planning to do a bit of a review of the ones I get and try. I've been getting rid of any device that has the old micro connector, I hated those things. The C connector is so much better. The large A style ones are OK but are still fiddly with the up/down orientation thing.

yep, it takes exactly three tries to get the A style seated properly.

 

[sbman]

yep, it takes exactly three tries to get the A style seated properly.

I have a friend who isn't very patient and he managed to destroy his PC by insisting that only one try was necessary. He managed to shove it in upside down which broke off the internal plastic on the PC's type-A port and shorted all the leads together against the metal shield of the cable which burnt traces on the motherboard of his PC and destroyed it. oops.

 

[wkearney99]

I had originally intended to just use 12V accessory sockets and plug in various adapters as someone mentioned previously, but I've done this extensively in other environments and find it to be unreliable with the sockets getting loose and the adapters themselves being poor quality.

I agree on socket connection quality and adapter issues. That and vendors tend to move away from making one model in favor of another and the replacement isn't always better.

But, as you've noted, the 1.25" hole is at least somewhat standard!

Have you come across any back boxes that work well behind these sorts of things? I'd prefer to have them contained, in a few spots anyway. I'm not talking air/moisture tight, just enough to avoid the terminals being open. This would be for few places with storage space on the inside. I wouldn't want something loose or moving around in the storage space causing problems with the connectors.

 

[wkearney99]

I have a friend who isn't very patient and he managed to destroy his PC by insisting that only one try was necessary. He managed to shove it in upside down which broke off the internal plastic on the PC's type-A port and shorted all the leads together against the metal shield of the cable which burnt traces on the motherboard of his PC and destroyed it. oops.

You would not believe the extent to which users will screw up connectors and cables. USB, HDMI and eSATA are all very similarly-sized. And FORCING one into the wrong kind of socket almost always "lets the magic smoke out".

 

[diver dave]

My Blue seas dual USB outlet is already a mono output. 2 months old.
Nope: My current trajectory is a short cord outlet strip in each occupied cabin. All the kids know to bring 120v chargers.

 

[sbman]

My Blue seas dual USB outlet is already a mono output. 2 months old.
Nope: My current trajectory is a short cord outlet strip in each occupied cabin. All the kids know to bring 120v chargers.

You mean this setup?

That's what I've got currently.

I have not had good luck with the Blue Seas USB either, they don't last long.

 

[diver dave]

You mean this setup?



That's what I've got currently.

I have not had good luck with the Blue Seas USB either, they don't last long.

Yep; pretty much! Its reliable, obsolescence resistant and messy!

 

[wkearney99]

Anker makes multi-port chargers for USB. We have a 10 port unit for phones, tablets, fitbit, apple watch, etc... both ours and guests. Along with short cords; 1ft and 2ft.

Not the prettiest arrangement, to have phones stacked/piled together, but certainly less ugly than using the default 6' cords and a bunch of separate chargers. Laptops still use their own supplies, and we charge them elsewhere on the boat from AC outlets.

This one does 2.4A charging, though not 'QC charging'. But better to have 2.4A charging for everything vs jockeying one or two ports, tangling cables and breaking ports. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YRYS4T4

I keep it on a small piece of wood, to avoid any heat from it causing problems with the varnish. This one doesn't get very hot, but I've had others in the past that have caused problems with finishes. Not enough to be a fire hazard though.

 

[diver dave]

I also found out, that folks want to charge in their own private space, while they use the device. That device might be a tablet, cell, or even a rechargeable fan. I tried and failed to find a common charge area.
A lessor problem for a small (2) crew.

 

[wkearney99]

I also found out, that folks want to charge in their own private space, while they use the device. That device might be a tablet, cell, or even a rechargeable fan. I tried and failed to find a common charge area.

Valid point. Our shared setup is for day guests. We use the boat recreationally and there's no crew.

For overnights that's why I was asking about "no light" versions of PD-capable sockets. I'd like to put some outlets in that'd let them power/charge devices from adjacent to the berths. There's an existing AC outlet but it's not convenient for use to power devices while they're in use.

 

[CaptTom]

The large A style ones are OK but are still fiddly with the up/down orientation thing.

On a sad note, the inventor of that USB A connector recently passed away. The funeral was beautiful, but there was a bit of trouble at the burial.

They had to take out the casket and try putting in it a different way three times before they got it right.

The blue light is important, how else could they charge $30 for an $8-$9.00 item.

The ones with lights are in that $8-9 price range now too. See below.

For overnights that's why I was asking about "no light" versions of PD-capable sockets.

This is what I bought, although I didn't get the one with PD. I probably will next time. I was unsure about the on/off switch, but it works great; the light goes out when the switch is off. At this price I put them all over the boat. If they fail or when (not if) they become obsolete, I just swap them out.

 

[diver dave]

As always with this type of device, see if it interferes with VHF radios (at least). I have rather a superset of radio equipment, and I will usually find issues with at least one. AM radios I will listen by ear, on FM stuff, I set threshold squelch and then scan all channels for a squelch break. At that point, see how much squelch is necessary to continue the scan. This gives some, admittedly basic, comfort with compatibility.
My main VHF antenna is 50feet up, that helps limit issues, but you can also use HH VHF, set to scan all for more local detection.
Oh, and make sure the USB is actually charging. More current can be more radiation.

 

[sbman]

As always with this type of device, see if it interferes with VHF radios (at least). I have rather a superset of radio equipment, and I will usually find issues with at least one. AM radios I will listen by ear, on FM stuff, I set threshold squelch and then scan all channels for a squelch break. At that point, see how much squelch is necessary to continue the scan. This gives some, admittedly basic, comfort with compatibility.
My main VHF antenna is 50feet up, that helps limit issues, but you can also use HH VHF, set to scan all for more local detection.
Oh, and make sure the USB is actually charging. More current can be more radiation.

Good point, I will include that in my testing to the ability that I can with the equipment I have onboard.

 

[Caballero II]

Good point, I will include that in my testing to the ability that I can with the equipment I have onboard.

sbman, did you ever come up with a final choice for usb receptacles? I didn't realize this thread was so old when I started to follow it with interest. Unlike you, I'm looking for a charger receptor that does not require inverting. I only want to keep my phones charged and so don't feel I need a lot of power, and I'd rather not keep the inverter running to do so. Thanks.

 

[Portage_Bay]

If all you need to charge is phones and other low power devices something like this would work. Blue Sea Systems BelowDeck Panels, Dual USB Chargers, 12V Sockets and Mini OLED Monitors
Or just go with a standard 12 volt socket and a generic car charger. No need to get the inverter involved.

sbman, did you ever come up with a final choice for usb receptacles? I didn't realize this thread was so old when I started to follow it with interest. Unlike you, I'm looking for a charger receptor that does not require inverting. I only want to keep my phones charged and so don't feel I need a lot of power, and I'd rather not keep the inverter running to do so. Thanks.

 

[sbman]

sbman, did you ever come up with a final choice for usb receptacles? I didn't realize this thread was so old when I started to follow it with interest. Unlike you, I'm looking for a charger receptor that does not require inverting. I only want to keep my phones charged and so don't feel I need a lot of power, and I'd rather not keep the inverter running to do so. Thanks.

I have two of the USB-C PD devices from amazon running directly off of 12 volts. They work great for phones and I don't hear any interference on the VHF when they are in use. I used a Powerwerx 3 hole plastic trim piece and put the two switched/lit USB-C PD at the dinette along with a powerpole connector in the center. I'll post a pic of it next time I am on the boat to get one. The inexpensive PD devices charge my phone to full in about 40 minutes.

I also have a Powerwerx USB-C 100W PD charger that is running off a cheap amazon 12-24V converter to power a 5G internet hotspot that requires at least 30 watts.

Powerwerx Panel Mount Combination USB QC3.0 and USB Type-C QC4.0 Fast Device Charger

 

[Caballero II]

I have two of the USB-C PD devices from amazon running directly off of 12 volts. They work great for phones and I don't hear any interference on the VHF when they are in use. I used a Powerwerx 3 hole plastic trim piece and put the two switched/lit USB-C PD at the dinette along with a powerpole connector in the center. I'll post a pic of it next time I am on the boat to get one. The inexpensive PD devices charge my phone to full in about 40 minutes.

I also have a Powerwerx USB-C 100W PD charger that is running off a cheap amazon 12-24V converter to power a 5G internet hotspot that requires at least 30 watts.

Powerwerx Panel Mount Combination USB QC3.0 and USB Type-C QC4.0 Fast Device Charger

If I understand you correctly, I only need 12V to power this USB-A + USB-C receptacle, and that it will still outperform the old USB-A type receptacles. That sounds like a winner to me. It sounds like you used a trim piece to put in two (at least) of these receptacles. I would like at least two.

I hope you will post a picture of what that looks like. Thanks very much for sharing all the research. Very much appreciated.

 

[tiltrider1]

Sbman, how is the Uniflite coming. I miss your updates.

 

[Hyperion]

I went through four or five "waterproof" jacks before I found this one and it has been great:

ROKK