main thru hull ball valve tight

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magna 6882

Guru
Joined
Apr 20, 2020
Messages
696
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Intrepid
Vessel Make
North Pacific/ NP-45 Hull 10
NP45 here.I went to shut of the main engine feed ball valve and found it really tight. Had to remove the floor plate to gain access .Have any of you guys had struggles with the valve? I am thinking of a way to cut the plate and make a door.
 
Does it have a zerk fitting or a place to put one? If so then shoot some good waterproof grease in and exercise the valve.
 
It just got tight all of a sudden?
Or has it not been shut at all recently?
Agree with Comodave that they need to be greased and exercised regularly.
We shut all our seacocks (engines, heads, everything) when we leave the boat if not planning to return soon.
That way they get exercised as a matter of routine and we never have to worry about any of them leaking when we are away.
 
In my experience it's pretty typical for thruhull valves to get stiff, and is why it's important to cycle them periodically. And of course keep them greased if they have such a provision.
 
I exercise the thru holes as i go by them but the main thru hole for the engine intake is under an aluminum floor board that requires 8 or 10 screws the a wrestle job of getting the floor board up and out of the way to even see the valve. Dont recall a zerc fitting.I only got it when trying to get at the raw water screen to service and tried to close the valve before opening the strainer.Got it closed but took by body weight. Not a good location if one needed to close in an emergency.
 
I exercise the thru holes as i go by them but the main thru hole for the engine intake is under an aluminum floor board that requires 8 or 10 screws the a wrestle job of getting the floor board up and out of the way to even see the valve. Dont recall a zerc fitting.I only got it when trying to get at the raw water screen to service and tried to close the valve before opening the strainer.Got it closed but took by body weight. Not a good location if one needed to close in an emergency.

Rod, I find mine to be very stiff after winter storage. It is a struggle to get it going but loosens up nicely. I have found Ihave to exercise it at least monthly to keep it moving smoothly. No zerk on mine. This Year I will try some waterproof grease from outside before launch. Not sure if it will make a difference but worth a shot.

Rob
 
I exercise the thru holes as i go by them but the main thru hole for the engine intake is under an aluminum floor board that requires 8 or 10 screws the a wrestle job of getting the floor board up and out of the way to even see the valve. Dont recall a zerc fitting.I only got it when trying to get at the raw water screen to service and tried to close the valve before opening the strainer.Got it closed but took by body weight. Not a good location if one needed to close in an emergency.

First thing I would do is get rid of the screws. In an emergency that could be the factor as to sinking or not.
 
I currently dont have it screwed down. Its aluminum about 3x4 in size. I will build a door our modify the handle so it would rise above the plate then just cut a slot in the plate Taking the rv south next week so wont be able to play with boat until april
 
Same boat. Very stiff. Had to remove panel to exercise it for recent annual maintenance. Didn’t notice a grease fitting. It’s a large through hull.
 
I exercise the thru holes as i go by them but the main thru hole for the engine intake is under an aluminum floor board that requires 8 or 10 screws the a wrestle job of getting the floor board up and out of the way to even see the valve..

A boating buddy with a NP45 had a round hole cut in the deckplate just large enough to work the thru-hull valve.
 
Does it have a zerk fitting or a place to put one? If so then shoot some good waterproof grease in and exercise the valve.
Be sure that you are using a bronze compatible grease. It is my understanding that lithium grease can cause electrolysis. Groco makes (markets) their own grease. It looks like the "blue" marine" grease. I bought the Groco brand as I paid $900ish for 2 new seacocks. Better safe than sorry.
 
What i did was took a piece of rectangular tubing 3/4x2 inch and cut it around 12 inches long. It slides over the existing handle so now i have a 12 inch handle.It works smoothly now . There is an access hole for the shower sump and with the longer handle i can easily close the valve by reaching in the hole since the handle is so long.
 

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