He visited Australia, helped launch long-board surfing here. Beautiful polished timber boards, far longer than seen now.
Our board riders seem to be under attack from sharks on the NSW north coast, seems whale traffic up and down the coast is attracting them. Today I read of a recovering board rider complaining he`d lost half his butt in an attack. He was lucky not losing his life, several have, those attacked now fight back, punching, gouging at eyes, and it works.