Autopilot hole filler

[Hornloaded]

I have ordered a Furuno 711C autopilot. It’s a single-din unit. My current control heads are double-din. Does anybody make a fill panel to adapt to the single-din size?

 

[Eagle Pursuit]

Check with car stereo install shops or online auto stereo sites.

 

[Hornloaded]

While the car stereo market uses the same terminology, the actual size is completely different. This will have to be specific to marine autopilot.

 

[Comodave]

I have used 1/2” black starboard to make new panels. It is easy to work with, just like wood.

 

[tiltrider1]

ABS is another product that I often use for such jobs if you don’t like the surface texture of starboard.

 

[stiggy]

Yea I'm on the constant hunt for the same. Right now I have black ABS in place but it's not the look I want. Our lower helm has a teak instrument pod and I've looked for a smaller sized teak instrument pod and have come up short. I'm guessing we'll have to custom make one this winter.

 

[Bmarler]

i'd pop those plugs out and remove the front of the pod and put on a new front piece of teak. shouldn't be too hard to do, good winter project.
there's also a bit of leftover space for an additional bit of instrumentation if you move the autopilot head to the side.
it's always a bummer when you update electronics and the face sizes don't match up.
some day i'm going to put a whole new face on my instrument panel. it's been cobbered up for decades with no real thought given to layout.

 

[Comodave]

When we bought our Formula last year I was going to update the electronics. I spoke to Formula and asked if they has CAD drawings for the instrument panels. They sent me to a company that had all the original Formula panel CAD files. The company asked for a list of the new electronics and a general layout of the new panel. They supplied 2 new 1/8” aluminum painted panels with all the cutouts exactly how I wanted it and the cost was about $450. It bolted into the dash perfectly. It was nice dealing with a great company. And the new panels look exquisite.

 

[Pascall]

If you are a bit handy with top milling cutter you can make panels from polycarbonate, not Plexiglas!
This is very easy to saw, sand and mill.
Polycarbonate can be glued together very strongly and does not tear!

Pascal.

 

[mvweebles]

Yea I'm on the constant hunt for the same. Right now I have black ABS in place but it's not the look I want. Our lower helm has a teak instrument pod and I've looked for a smaller sized teak instrument pod and have come up short. I'm guessing we'll have to custom make one this winter.

Maybe move the single gauge over and put something next to it? Here's a time/temp gauge that could take up some real estate and provide a modicum of useful information.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dak-slx16-1-c

Or something like this comfort/hygrometer/temperature - it's 3-1/2" square.

https://www.amazon.com/Crosse-Technology-WT-137U-Thermometer-Hydrometer/dp/B006MOVP7K

Peter

 

[tiltrider1]

Yea I'm on the constant hunt for the same. Right now I have black ABS in place but it's not the look I want. Our lower helm has a teak instrument pod and I've looked for a smaller sized teak instrument pod and have come up short. I'm guessing we'll have to custom make one this winter.

In this case, I would cut a large rectangle out. I would use a router bit with a bearing to cut a 3/8 notch. I would then cut my ABS so that it inserts into the cut out. I would make sure my rectangle had more height than my gauge.

I would have recessed my screws and chosen black screws.

 

[stiggy]

Maybe move the single gauge over and put something next to it? Here's a time/temp gauge that could take up some real estate and provide a modicum of useful information.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dak-slx16-1-c

Or something like this comfort/hygrometer/temperature - it's 3-1/2" square.

https://www.amazon.com/Crosse-Technology-WT-137U-Thermometer-Hydrometer/dp/B006MOVP7K

Peter

I've considered that, even putting a Furuno FI70 Instrument Display next to it, expensive "hole filler" but plenty of utility that could be useful in that spot. I run TimeZero on a PC for navigation and have a Maretron DSM410 on the overhead which shows everything on the NMEA200 network so not really needed.

In this case, I would cut a large rectangle out. I would use a router bit with a bearing to cut a 3/8 notch. I would then cut my ABS so that it inserts into the cut out. I would make sure my rectangle had more height than my gauge.

I would have recessed my screws and chosen black screws.

That sounds really sharp looking. I'm afraid my woodworking skills wouldn't be good enough. Haven't used a router in years.

 

[wkearney99]

Yea I'm on the constant hunt for the same. Right now I have black ABS in place but it's not the look I want. Our lower helm has a teak instrument pod and I've looked for a smaller sized teak instrument pod and have come up short. I'm guessing we'll have to custom make one this winter.

Might look 'less worse' to offset the unit to one side and use the other side for something else. Maybe something simple like 12vdc voltmeter display and USB charging sockets?

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=12vdc+charging+socket+meter&atb=v332-1&iax=images&ia=images

Of if there's enough clearance something like a Scanstrut wireless phone charging mount.

https://www.scanstrut.com/marine/charge/qi-wireless

 

[Hornloaded]

I think I’ll end up machining a plate out of steel and have it powder coated. I like the idea of adding a display next to it. Engine room temp would be perfect.

 

[wkearney99]

Seems like a lot of trouble to go through with metal and powder coating when simple Starboard or other UV-stable plastics are available (acrylic, hdpe, etc). But go with what works best for you.

I've had a local CNC shop make me a few adapters now and then. To re-fit Fusion stereo controls over the hole for an old Clarion remote, a Furuno (just like you've got) over the hole for a Simrad AP26, etc.

As for gauges, if you have an N2K network with the data on it there are a few round gauge style displays to consider, if you're after that look. When putting in gauges/displays I've always preferred the flexibility of being able to display more than just one data point. Never hurts to have the option to flip to other data if/when need arises.

I do, however, prefer keeping important data points displayed using an analog needle vs digits. This way you can just 'scan the needles' looking for a pin that's out of it's expected point on the dial, and not have to stop and think about what a series of digits means.