Accidentally bought a trawler ;)

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
I am not sure about that, you will need to look. Those on my Silverton were held with simple bolts, one on each end. I cleaned mine in less than 5 minutes each. I do know that the oil coolers are sweated on so cleaning those things would be both difficult and messy.

EDIT:

I used a SS welding rod for the job but anything will work. A 22 caliber cleaning rod might fit.
Excellent

I remember that style. Hopefly that's what I have and will take my gun cleaning kit.
Thx for the great tip.
 
Greetings,
Mr. Gw. I think oil and transmission coolers are considered throw away items being they are relatively inexpensive. Your engine manufacturer/parts supplier should be able to tell you what the suggested replacement schedule for these items is. If you have the option of Cu/Ni replacements, buy those (longer life). Heat exchangers, on the other hand, are pricey but pretty easy to service AFAIK.
 
This just in......

Foggy sail, did the heat exchangers and the gun cleaning brush fit but their shafts did not.
They were spotless clean anyway.

RT, remember, this is a freshwater boat.
It's neglected but clean as a pin.

Went through water pumps today and think I solved our cooling issues ?
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    161.9 KB · Views: 152
Hopcar, really like the lines and building it as an open runabout.
Finishing restoring an '81 35 hp Johnrude I bought from a closing shop.

Once complete im going to look at engineering remote steering and controls if I can make it fit.

I have a vision of the finished product, now to see if I can get there ?
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    63.1 KB · Views: 147
GW, please post pictures as your build progresses. I love watching boats go together.
 
Thx

Yes on the impeller pcs.
Never been so happy to find two mulched impellers.

Pulled the windlass and refinished it and working on replacing all the teak trim, probably with Plasteak.

Spent $500 for all new graphics that should really make it pop.
The buffer gets fired up as soon as the weather breaks.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    71.2 KB · Views: 153
For maintenance S&G [needs - lol] this year:

New impellers in both engines and gen set

New oil/filters in all three

Removed, rebuilt, reinstalled heat exchanger on each of the twins - Sweet!

Oil pressure checks on all three engines - Sweet!

Getting ready for hopefully a bit more boating this season. Last couple years have been filled with too many obligations... keeping fingers crossed!

Next winter hope to haul-out and complete some planned for goals.
 

Attachments

  • Port Rebuilt Heat Exchanger.jpg
    Port Rebuilt Heat Exchanger.jpg
    146.6 KB · Views: 201
  • Starboard Rebuilt Heat Exchanger.jpg
    Starboard Rebuilt Heat Exchanger.jpg
    174.9 KB · Views: 203
Last edited:
GWilliams. Hi, do consider Flexiteak - they have a "Mk II" product that doesn´t get as hot in the sun as the earlier ones in the industry.

Cheers-Jonas
 
Headway......

On oil pressure in port motor I installed a mechanical gauge and I've got 30 at idle and 40 at cruise right where it should be. Amazing that my new sender and gauge at helm does not show that.

Plasteak is done and installed as are the graphics.

Discovered another serious issue that all similar Manship owners should check. Was finding water in bilge from unknown source. With motors running I finally found it coming from the exhaust baffle box. Corrosion somewhere not visible to the naked eye.
Steady stream at idle.
Had mechanic at our marina check to validate what I was seeing and he thought OK to finish season.
Underway, wife at helm, I crawled in bilge with flashlight and could not believe what I saw!
We had run approximately 5 miles w/s stream of water pouring in, that exhaust port submerged underway so amplifying issue.
On top of that on plane all water runs to back of hull where there is no bilge pump!
We changed course headed for safety of port and main pump immediately kicked on and ran 10 minutes solid! Based on my math we had 100 gallons of water in the bilge!
Had local fab shop weld in a new stub for through hull hose.
With a flashlight you could see the baffles which there are three of in those boxes were badly corroded and mostly gone. And this is on a freshwater boat!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0895.jpg
    IMG_0895.jpg
    136.3 KB · Views: 92
  • IMG_0893.jpg
    IMG_0893.jpg
    121.1 KB · Views: 94
  • IMG_0894.jpg
    IMG_0894.jpg
    100.9 KB · Views: 87
  • IMG_0834.jpg
    IMG_0834.jpg
    144.5 KB · Views: 91
  • IMG_0835.jpg
    IMG_0835.jpg
    130.5 KB · Views: 91
  • IMG_0838.jpg
    IMG_0838.jpg
    139.1 KB · Views: 87
Last edited:
The exhaust.

BTW, marina wanted to pull the boat (due to through hull location of exhaust) but mechanic gave me great idea that worked.

Two hoses into box are 3", exit hose is 4".

Bought a 4" PVC pipe cap for $3.50 and stuck into hose end and tightened clamp.

Perfect!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0802.jpg
    IMG_0802.jpg
    196 KB · Views: 89
  • IMG_0803.jpg
    IMG_0803.jpg
    153.3 KB · Views: 91
  • IMG_0807.jpg
    IMG_0807.jpg
    147.7 KB · Views: 90
I really like how the registration #s came out and name on bridge.

Have same on rear deck just above transom.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0896.jpg
    IMG_0896.jpg
    102.6 KB · Views: 88
Done.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0897.jpg
    IMG_0897.jpg
    116.3 KB · Views: 89
  • IMG_0898.jpg
    IMG_0898.jpg
    68.7 KB · Views: 89
  • IMG_0899.jpg
    IMG_0899.jpg
    125.4 KB · Views: 88
The new dink is almost done.

Bought a set of plans for a Glen-L Squirt but at 10' would stick past the transom (10') w/the motor on it so I inset the motor board and problem solved.

Starting w/a 35 hp on it but after getting my yah yah's out w/it, I think Im going to put an old '50's vintage motor on it to match the classic barrel backed styling.
 

Attachments

  • dinghy rear.jpg
    dinghy rear.jpg
    67.1 KB · Views: 90
  • dinghy with varnish.jpeg
    dinghy with varnish.jpeg
    8 KB · Views: 371
That’s really nice. I think by doing that you solved another problem. Small boats with tiller steered Outboards love to point their nose to the sky when trying to get on plane. People end up putting tiller extensions and fins on the Outboards. You now have planeing surface behind the engine which will hold the bow down. I think you made a real improvement to the design. I think it will jump right on plane with no drama.

Nice workmanship too.
 
The new dink is almost done.

Bought a set of plans for a Glen-L Squirt but at 10' would stick past the transom (10') w/the motor on it so I inset the motor board and problem solved.

Starting w/a 35 hp on it but after getting my yah yah's out w/it, I think Im going to put an old '50's vintage motor on it to match the classic barrel backed styling.

Pretty, Pretty!!
 
That’s really nice. I think by doing that you solved another problem. Small boats with tiller steered Outboards love to point their nose to the sky when trying to get on plane. People end up putting tiller extensions and fins on the Outboards. You now have planeing surface behind the engine which will hold the bow down. I think you made a real improvement to the design. I think it will jump right on plane with no drama.

Nice workmanship too.

You have a good eye for small boats.

I've designed and built quite a few of them and agree w/your observations.

We do a lot w/ours and use them for small boats, not just as a dinghy.

I've run a 6 gallon fuel tank dry in a day.

I've knee boarded behind one.
Hauled bikes, dogs,beach chairs, people etc.

I've towed them, inflated them on site and hauled them on davits.
Rowed them and powered them.

I spent the last 2 seasons trying to accept an inflatable as that boat and failed.
10' w/inflatable keel and plywood floor.

I built a second, aft seat (w/integrated cooler, storage etc), installed a bag (for storage) on the forward seat, I used a tiller extension and moved the fuel tank for balance depending on load.

One thing my home built will do better is stay on plane at lower speeds which the inflatable would not do.
In rough (what's not rough to a 10' boat?) water it was a challenge just to stay on plane.
Plus look at actual cockpit size of a 10' inflatable.
Smaller than a 8' fiberglass dink.

BTW, I built and raced 10' hydroplanes for 9 yrs so like what canbe done w/a small boat, done well.

It's April in Ohio and 30* and snowing so who knows when we'll find out if my idea works ��
 
Last edited:
More fair to compare with a 13’ whaler i think.
Yes, i own a 10’ avon with the inflatable keel [emoji3] a 1976 model.
 
That is a beautiful dink! Love the style and craftsmanship. Almost too pretty to use!

How are you going to transport it on your MS?
 
Sold an '86 Marinette 32' sedan/bridge (2nd 32', third Marinette) that was perfect to buy this project, knowing we'd spend most of the end of this season at dock (as in, a cottage) while I sorted it.


Gary

what is the best way to sell a neglected Marinette. my old one has been in the drive way too long .I was thinking craigslist , the Marinette Facebook page .or just recycle the aluminum. it's on a $7500.00 trailer . I like my trawler better .
 
That is a beautiful dink! Love the style and craftsmanship. Almost too pretty to use!

How are you going to transport it on your MS?

I built a set of davits for it.
I hang the dinghy w/motor, gas tank etc, from the davits so I just drop it and go.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0605.jpg
    IMG_0605.jpg
    120.1 KB · Views: 58
The market for a neglected Marinette is brutal.

They're like an old, neglected car.
Just cuz they're old, don't make em valuable.

I love Marinettes and would rather have a 37/39 aft cabin but clean ones are good money.
That's how we ended up w/what we have.


If yours is on a $7500 trailer, drop the boat at a broker then sell the trailer.
Many brokers (around here anyway) will take, display your boat for next to nothing except the commission if/when it sells.

A neighbor is doing that w/his old boat to save storage fees.
 
Back
Top Bottom