What trawler should I look at?

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mvweebles said:
Ahhh.... My first love!!! A CHB34.

I was walking the Docks in Oxnard at a friend's sailing club in 1985. And there, at the end of the fairway she sat. She smiled and gave me a wink - I refuse to believe it was the wake of a passing boat that made her move like she did. My heart melted. Alas she was taken. But I never forgot her.

I never owned a Taiwan trawler. But they are what turned my head away from sailing.
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I can relate:
We chartered a CHB 34 in I believe 1985. Two couples aboard for 2 weeks of exploring the San Juan and Gulf islands. It actually did quite well with the single 120 hp diesel. No thrusters. The good hull design was used with another boat line for years. Small boat, although it had everything needed and two heads with showers in each. Rear cabin is roomy. There is always the, I need more room bug that gets you.
 
Can the OP post pictures of boats that he loves the looks ?
 
rsn48 said:
People always talk about a high fuel burn on boats that are capable of faster cruising and they are correct. But you can often go fast for a short time, let's say a half hour and get to an area faster, then slow down. So you could rip along for half an hour heading to the Gulf Islands, then slow down once you are in them.

It's nice to have an option and decide not to use it, rather than not having an option and needing (wanting) it.
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The above pretty much nails my philosophy for selecting a boat. Here in SoCal it can be a long way between marinas & services. A boat that can cruise in the high teens but can also attain more economical trawler performance is my preference. My OA 42 sedan really delivers to that end.
 

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These viewpoints are well taken. Nonetheless, it appears these much faster boats can never attain the very low and very attractive gph consumptions numbers of a Monk or other trawler with smaller motor.

Its a tradeoff, like so many things in life and in boats. When i first started looking for 'my' traweler, 1.2 gph consumption at optimum cruise speed was what i had as a goal. That vruise consumption yielded about 6.5 mph. Just moving along at maximum boat efficiency. ......Going up to 2 gph / 8.5 ish mph is a tradeoff but i still get an acceptable (to me) efficiency. but in my quest, whenever i found a boat boat could do 14 or greater mph it never got those same highly efficient and highly attractive gph numbers.
 
Zoar said:
These viewpoints are well taken. Nonetheless, it appears these much faster boats can never attain the very low and very attractive gph consumptions numbers of a Monk or other trawler with smaller motor.

Its a tradeoff, like so many things in life and in boats. When i first started looking for 'my' traweler, 1.2 gph consumption at optimum cruise speed was what i had as a goal. That vruise consumption yielded about 6.5 mph. Just moving along at maximum boat efficiency. ......Going up to 2 gph / 8.5 ish mph is a tradeoff but i still get an acceptable (to me) efficiency. but in my quest, whenever i found a boat boat could do 14 or greater mph it never got those same highly efficient and highly attractive gph numbers.
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Zoar,
I beg to differ with you on a couple of your well intentioned points. First off, I have been on board several Monk 36's that have the exact same engine that my boat has (Cummins 6BTA 330 HP), although I am sure there are other power plants that were either used routinely or customer specified.
Secondly, with that engine and as verified by R Cook of Dreamcatcher (another NT 37 with the same engine), at or close to hull speed our fuel economy is approximately 2 gph without removing any amount to account for running the generator and/or diesel heater. I do not operate normally at lower RPM's (so I don't have actual figures), but I am very sure that if I ran at 6 knots or so I would achieve better than the 2 gph mentioned (maybe in the 1.5 gph range?). The Nordic Tug 37 will achieve over 14 knots at WOT, but at considerable increase in fuel consumption, so other than to occasionally "burn off the carbon" for a few minutes, why would you?
It is not my intent to "defend" my boat (engine type) or suggest that the OP should only consider this model, but I did want to point out what to me seemed to be at least "slightly" faulty information, at least in this case.:D
Your general concept is a good one in my opinion.
 
Zoar said:
These viewpoints are well taken. Nonetheless, it appears these much faster boats can never attain the very low and very attractive gph consumptions numbers of a Monk or other trawler with smaller motor.

Its a tradeoff, like so many things in life and in boats. When i first started looking for 'my' traweler, 1.2 gph consumption at optimum cruise speed was what i had as a goal. That vruise consumption yielded about 6.5 mph. Just moving along at maximum boat efficiency. ......Going up to 2 gph / 8.5 ish mph is a tradeoff but i still get an acceptable (to me) efficiency. but in my quest, whenever i found a boat boat could do 14 or greater mph it never got those same highly efficient and highly attractive gph numbers.
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This post almost makes me think of people who drive a Prius(no offense). It is not so much about the actual fuel burn as it is about the "game" and bragging rights to achieve that fuel burn. When you shop a boat based on fuel burn as your primary criterion, that is somewhat puzzling in my opinion unless it is just what I mentioned above. NOW....if you are doing some serious long range cruising, I understand....the difference in fuel burn could mean hundreds of miles in added range. But you could pass by MANY awesome boats with more "important" features than just incremental fuel burn by using that fuel burn as a primary criterion.
 
A trawler is like a de-masted blue water sailboat with more beam.
 
I agree that fuel burn is incidental. Now, my Willard 36 is a full displacement hull that would not plane with a pair of Pratt & Whitney's strapped to her deck. I don't own her because she's fuel efficient. I own her because she's safe, comfortable, reliable, and uncomplicated. And I happen to like life at jogging speed. There are many ways to resolve a change in weather that just pushing the throttles. Displacement speeds force a different approach to cruising.
 
When you look at the advertised fuel burn, realize that is with 1/2 fuel, 1/2 water and the refrigerator running (assuming it's a 12 volt fridge). That means, none of that 1000 pounds of stuff we add, like pots pans, food, other stores, spare parts, tools, rib with outboard etc.
Plus maybe a full tank of fuel and full tank of water and the generator running to support the A/C
 
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mvweebles said:
I agree that fuel burn is incidental. Now, my Willard 36 is a full displacement hull that would not plane with a pair of Pratt & Whitney's strapped to her deck. I don't own her because she's fuel efficient. I own her because she's safe, comfortable, reliable, and uncomplicated. And I happen to like life at jogging speed. There are many ways to resolve a change in weather that just pushing the throttles. Displacement speeds force a different approach to cruising.
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Very well said. I agree with your words which is one of the best ways to say why the attraction to trawlers does not die.
 
I suspect if I kept my AT under 2 knots, I could really go far on 400 gallons of fuel but, I may not have enough food onboard to last that long. The point is, we have to at least try to be realistic in our expectations.

On the east coast, if I ride the Gulf Stream north.... engine efficiency will skyrocket too.
 
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OldDan1943 said:
On the east coast, if I ride the Gulf Stream north.... engine efficiency will skyrocket too.
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Most submarine skippers will tell you that headed east, turn left at the gulf stream and you will pick up 10 knots.:blush:
 
Codger2 said:
Most submarine skippers will tell you that headed east, turn left at the gulf stream and you will pick up 10 knots.:blush:
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Daymn you just gave away a secret. I'm calling the CIA, FBI, NavSec and your mama... LOL
Subs take advantage of ocean currents, deep holes and layers and a few other things.... Shhhh, dont tell anyone else
 
OldDan1943 said:
Daymn you just gave away a secret. I'm calling the CIA, FBI, NavSec and your mama... LOL
Subs take advantage of ocean currents, deep holes and layers and a few other things.... Shhhh, dont tell anyone else
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That ship has sailed with the hunt for red October
 
My observation is that the average boat stays in the hands of an owner 5-7 years. That is probably not a major consideration when you buy a trawler, but it should be considered. I’m biased, but Grand Banks usually do well in the used trawler market. I agree about the teak decks. That was a strong consideration when I bought my GB 42. The previous owner had pulled the decks and sealed them. I had the painting/texturing done when I bought her. A lot of bad stuff can be lurking below teak decks.

IMHO, older mechanical diesels are preferred over the newer electronic diesels. Most trawlers are in a salt water environment and electronics suffer. The older engines are generally simple. The older Detroit’s aren’t the most fuel efficient but are pretty reliable. My choice would be an older boat with the Ford Lehman’s. They are fuel efficient and last a long time if properly maintained. A 40’ trawler with a single Lehman will burn around 2.5 GPH while getting you around 7 knots of speed.
 
Trawlers

Trawlerdream said:
Yep you are absolutely right. That I should have figured out myself:banghead:

So I think I rather go smaller and loose a knot or two.

The key thing is to have a second cabin for guests. Are there any trawlers under 36 feet with two cabins?
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Give a hard look at the GB 36 Classic (what I have). Two staterooms, two full heads plus a main saloon. 8kts (occasionally). Mine has 1 screw and no teak decks. They were removed before I purchased the boat. That was one of my main criteria. Glad to talk with you about it if you like.
 
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Bryant said:
Give a hard look at the GB 36 Classic (what I have). Two staterooms, two full heads plus a main saloon. 8kts. Mine has 1 screw and no teak decks. They were removed before I purchased the boat. That was one of my main criteria. Glad to talk with you about it if you like.
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+2
Carver makes a 32 tri cabin, but it looks cramped.
 
Trawler

OldDan1943 said:
Reason not to buy a GB in general, exterior teak.
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My search criteria when I was looking for my GB 36 was: 1 engine, teak decks already removed. I found two that met that description and they were located about 25 miles apart. That's not typical but you can find them. I got the added bonus of old fuel tanks gone, new ones installed.

There is also something else to consider. If you get a GB 36 and find that it's the boat for you and you intend to keep it for a long time, you can keep the teak transom but paint the rest of the teak to reduce maintenance. I know that's blasphemy but it's doable. I've actually seen a couple of boats that have had this done and it looks quite nice. And you still have a GB with the teak interior.
 
Real Trawler? Wanabee Trawler?

I'm a little confused by Wanabee vs Real. Do you mean blue water capable vs coastal?

But back to the original question of the sailor who wants to come over to the dark side. Welcome, you won't regret your decision. I had a sail boat years ago and getting a trawler was like coming up for air.

The trawler I have is a 41' Marine Trader that is powered by a single Ford Lehman natrually aspirated engine. This is probably what your looking for. It does your 8 knots and burns very little fuel. Its 2 foot keel, (measured at the skeg) assists in making the boat track very well with the auto pilot.

As for a project boat. Any 40 year old Tawainese trawler is a project boat. The maintenance never ends. You can mitigate the maintenance by getting rid of all the teak, but the systems, plumbing, heating , electronics, electrical, propane will keep you busy year round. I suggest 40 feet with as wide as beam as you can find to give you that space. And a flybridge to keep you out doors.
 
Pete Meisinger said:
First off, Welcome to the Dark Side!

It sounds like you will be spending a lot of time on your boat and putting lot of miles under the keel. Go with a quality boat between 35 and 40. Closer to 40 would be best. Don't really look at age. There are some fantastic older Hatties and Bertrams out there. Definitely single engine, also approve of your dislike for teak. By going with a slightly older boat you will get an older engine, read "Less technology, easy to maintain yourself".

By the way..(and I really don't want to "tick" off anyone but here goes) Mainship are nice boats, but they are not GREAT, Not really built to last. They are more alone the lines of Bayliner, somewhere in the middle.

pete
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Funny you should say that Mainships are not really built to last. I think if you were to do a pole on Trawler Forum you would find there are more 40 year old mainships on this site than any other brand. That said, in one area you are correct in that they were built to be economical in original cost, maintenance and operation.
John
 
Trawler

grahamdouglass said:
I'm a little confused by Wanabee vs Real. Do you mean blue water capable vs coastal?

But back to the original question of the sailor who wants to come over to the dark side. Welcome, you won't regret your decision. I had a sail boat years ago and getting a trawler was like coming up for air.

The trawler I have is a 41' Marine Trader that is powered by a single Ford Lehman natrually aspirated engine. This is probably what your looking for. It does your 8 knots and burns very little fuel. Its 2 foot keel, (measured at the skeg) assists in making the boat track very well with the auto pilot.

As for a project boat. Any 40 year old Tawainese trawler is a project boat. The maintenance never ends. You can mitigate the maintenance by getting rid of all the teak, but the systems, plumbing, heating , electronics, electrical, propane will keep you busy year round. I suggest 40 feet with as wide as beam as you can find to give you that space. And a flybridge to keep you out doors.
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Any 40 year old boat is a project boat. Doesn't matter what make. For that matter, a 2020 boat is a project boat. Just different projects.

There are two philosophies: Buy a 1980 boat for 60k and put 60k into it or buy a 1990 boat for 120k. There are no "good deals". You are going to pay one way or the other. Just decide which school of thought fits you better. Of course there are the guys that can buy a derelict and make it Bristol but that's not most of us. If you are that guy, there are good deals out there.
 
Bryant said:
.........

There are two philosophies: Buy a 1980 boat for 60k and put 60k into it or buy a 1990 boat for 120k. There are no "good deals". You are going to pay one way or the other. Just decide which school of thought fits you better. Of course there are the guys that can buy a derelict and make it Bristol but that's not most of us. If you are that guy, there are good deals out there.
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:thumb:
 
Soo-Valley said:
:thumb:
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If I accidentally bought a big time project boat, I have 2 craftsman I could turn the boat over to, walk away and wait for their call. Of course, I would have to sell all my internal organs.
 
Originally Posted by Trawlerdream View Post
“Yep you are absolutely right. That I should have figured out myself

So I think I rather go smaller and loose a knot or two.

The key thing is to have a second cabin for guests. Are there any trawlers under 36 feet with two cabins?”


A CHB 34 gives what you asked with less length.

https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1983/chb-34-tri-cabin-3652306/
 
Nickair said:

A CHB 34 gives what you asked with less length.
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Agreed, we had one for nine years before we bought the IG36'. They offer a lot of room, and two sleeping cabins.

In short a lot of boat for the money. No bluewater sailor to be sure, but not too bad if you pick your passage times.

Though they do have Teak decks. IMHO, if you can find a boat with Teak decks that have been 'done' that is , new teak decks glued not screwed you have the best of both worlds. Teak underfoot on a boat is pretty much unbeatable. :hide:
 
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