Waste tank monitoring

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Stick to what you have. Here's my recipe.
1. Pull the tank sensor probe fitting out.
2. Scrape and loosen the crud at bottom of the tank as best you can, two paint stir sticks work great taped together.
3. Pump out the tank.
4. The sensors, that slide on the tubes, can come off by taking off their plastic clips on the bottoms. Keep track of which end was up. Clean the tubes and the insides of the sensors with a small tool. The liquids crystallize inside the sensors, which is what causes the sticking most of the time. Reassemble float sensors.
5. If you have a multi float system, calibrate the sensors by loosening the locknut on the lowest sensor and push it down until it touches the bottom of the tank. Then pull it back out 1/2". Keep the upper sensor where it was and adjust the middle sensor halfway between the two. Reinstall the probe fitting in the tank.
6. Power up the system, and the tank sensor lights should indicate empty. If reads higher, then adjust the lowest sensor by pulling it further out until it reads empty.
Tighten all lock nuts.
7. System is now ready to go.
8. I pump out when the monitor system reads medium.
9. While I'm in the mood, I replace the duckbill valves, and the tank vent filter.
10. Take a hot shower, then pour myself a nice cold one!
I have used this method for six years and haven't had an issue.

Our last boat had that system and it worked fine. But if it had ever quit working then I would have gone with the Scad system and left the old system in place. Really didn’t want to work on the floats after what they had been in…
 
Since I live in Gig Harbor, where they are made, I was pleased to have 2 boats in the past with the Hart system tank tender.



However my experience leads me not to recommend it for a waste tank for the simple reason that if you ever overfill your holding tank, the small air tube from the tank to the instrument can and will become clogged. We eventually solved the problem by running a second capillary tube between the tank and the instrument.

~A

AlanT, I'm new (sort of) to the Tank Tender system. I've got the fuel tanks hooked up but not the black water tank. Some questions for you. Why would over filling block the tube anymore than normal use? Isn't it the crud drying in the tube that causes the blockage? Was the purge valve not enough to clear the tube? And finally, how did a 2nd tube solve the problem?

Thanks for taking the time to answer.
 
I guess we are old fashioned... We mark each day we are on the boat on a calendar. When it has 8 X's on the calendar it's time for a pump out....

Also have 1 of these for a backup-reminder...
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|51|2234299|2234305|2234306&id=1759985

We were much more old fashioned than that.
Climbed down in the engine compartment w a flashlight. Shined the light at the side of the tank and if the tank was clean enough one could easily see the fluid level inside.:blush:
 
The tank tender has a purge valve which bypasses the pressure gage preventing gage damage when you pump the manual pump to clear the line of sludge once clear you release the purge valve and slowly pump the pump to get an accurate reading of inches of water. Works great I have no problem and check on a daily basis when cruising.
 
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