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Old 12-11-2018, 05:25 PM   #21
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Our 1990 6BTA JWA's are 250HP. They came with Twin Disc MG-506-1 trannies. Seem to work fine.
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Old 12-11-2018, 06:01 PM   #22
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Have you considered discussing this with a qualified marine engineer?
Might be a bit expensive but, there would be no guessing.
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Old 12-13-2018, 10:20 AM   #23
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Nothing wrong with engine being a little nose up. Especially on a trawler where boat running angle is pretty flat.

What is you shaft angle relative to WL? Sounds like it might be pretty steep.

If 10deg, you can use a 7deg gear.

I haven't gotten the plans yet to make those calculations. Running angle should remain flat as we don't plan to overpower the hull to planning speeds.


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You can also install nose down a few degrees. Just have to make sure the cooling system vent is in the upper most point.

Thanks for mentioning that. I was keeping that idea in my back pocket.
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Old 12-13-2018, 10:24 AM   #24
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Our 1990 6BTA JWA's are 250HP. They came with Twin Disc MG-506-1 trannies. Seem to work fine.

Thanks for posting up. That's another option I have run into, during my research.


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Have you considered discussing this with a qualified marine engineer?
Might be a bit expensive but, there would be no guessing.

Good idea. Already happening. We may ask the designer/NA about some changes on engine location. Also considering a full keel option for prop and rudder protection along with better tracking.
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Old 12-14-2018, 07:49 AM   #25
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I consider the advantage goes to Twin Disc.

The commercials seem to love them and best of all they have been in service for decades.

This means there are plenty around so a good rebuilt tranny with no core charge should save 1/2 - 2/3 or more .

With their high service life it is doubtful a recreation boat could ever wear one out.

Good hunting! Look in Boats and Harbors for rebuilders.
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Old 12-14-2018, 12:41 PM   #26
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I consider the advantage goes to Twin Disc.

The commercials seem to love them and best of all they have been in service for decades.

This means there are plenty around so a good rebuilt tranny with no core charge should save 1/2 - 2/3 or more .

With their high service life it is doubtful a recreation boat could ever wear one out.

Good hunting! Look in Boats and Harbors for rebuilders.
BINGO! You have confirmed exactly what I have found through research and calls. These things could be rebuilt in the dirt and last. Kind of like the Detroit Diesels of transmissions.
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Old 12-17-2018, 02:00 PM   #27
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What transmission would you guys recommend to put behind a 5.9L Cummins 6BT in the 260-280HP range. We have yet to confirm that HP number. We will be having it tuned to that power level if possible. The RPM limit on the tach shows 2600rpm. We're planning to hopefully cap that at 2200-2400rpm. The power and rpm may come down anyway because we are planning to install water cooled exhaust. It was dry stacked with a watercooler turbo. I can only assume the bell housing pattern is I/C because it's round.

Not a Trawler guy but i have a 32 Hatteras FB with 370 HP 6BTA Cummins
diesels. I have the ZF 220A Gears and love them. Being a fisherman they get a work out when trying to stay on a spot.
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Old 12-18-2018, 08:05 AM   #28
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Not a Trawler guy but i have a 32 Hatteras FB with 370 HP 6BTA Cummins
diesels. I have the ZF 220A Gears and love them. Being a fisherman they get a work out when trying to stay on a spot.

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Old 12-31-2018, 05:34 PM   #29
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The ZF 220A is 10 Deg

https://www.sbmar.com/docs/ZF/DS-ZF_220_A.pdfwn angle

For the length and weight of your boat you probably will need to look at 2:1 or 2.5:1 ratio and swing a larger diameter prop, larger heavier displacement vessels need torque not HP so much to maneuver properly
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Old 01-02-2019, 02:27 AM   #30
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Also considering a full keel option for prop and rudder protection along with better tracking.
Good idea for the keel, that’s a big boat with a lot of flat bottom, you don’t want it slewing around on you.
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Old 01-02-2019, 06:49 AM   #31
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"Also considering a full keel option for prop and rudder protection along with better tracking "

Build everything robust enough when you spend a tide or two aground there are no worries.

With a single center line engine you might consider what many Euro boats fit.

The install a strong chain plate P&S at about the wide point of the hull , then two legs (4x4 or 6x6) are chained together at the base where pads (for soft bottoms) .

The legs are walked back from the bow with the chain in place sliding under the hull.

A set of double blocks allow the legs to be pushed firmly into the bottom (if aground) or simply adjusted to the right depth while waiting for the tide to leave,

Makes overnight in creeks or tidal pools a breeze .
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Old 01-02-2019, 12:17 PM   #32
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The ZF 220A is 10 Deg

https://www.sbmar.com/docs/ZF/DS-ZF_220_A.pdfwn angle

For the length and weight of your boat you probably will need to look at 2:1 or 2.5:1 ratio and swing a larger diameter prop, larger heavier displacement vessels need torque not HP so much to maneuver properly

Thanks for the recommendation. Yeah we're gonna need a large prop with some bite.




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Good idea for the keel, that’s a big boat with a lot of flat bottom, you don’t want it slewing around on you.

I once tried to pilot a 22 foot flat bottom aluminum Jon boat across Lake Greenwood in SC with 25 knot sustained winds. At swiming speed with a 30 knot gust, the boat would pirouette on her transom. Lift and twirll. Made for one hell on an adventure. Just needed rain to make it better.







Quote:
Originally Posted by FF View Post
"Also considering a full keel option for prop and rudder protection along with better tracking "

Build everything robust enough when you spend a tide or two aground there are no worries.

With a single center line engine you might consider what many Euro boats fit.

The install a strong chain plate P&S at about the wide point of the hull , then two legs (4x4 or 6x6) are chained together at the base where pads (for soft bottoms) .

The legs are walked back from the bow with the chain in place sliding under the hull.

A set of double blocks allow the legs to be pushed firmly into the bottom (if aground) or simply adjusted to the right depth while waiting for the tide to leave,

Makes overnight in creeks or tidal pools a breeze .



Good idea. I've seen those stands that some use to keep their boats upright when the tide runs out. She'll be overbuilt incase of dry outs. I don't think I would attempt to beach a boat this big.
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