Ski in NC
Technical Guru
In post #18 I asked if anyone had any experience with Miles Oil Company, Nobody's commented, Surely someone has an opinion.
Never heard of it and I am in the engine business,
In post #18 I asked if anyone had any experience with Miles Oil Company, Nobody's commented, Surely someone has an opinion.
In post #18 I asked if anyone had any experience with Miles Oil Company, Nobody's commented, Surely someone has an opinion.
In post #18 I asked if anyone had any experience with Miles Oil Company, Nobody's commented, Surely someone has an opinion.
The manual for my Hinos recommends 10 different brands including Delo, Castrol and Rotella. I'm using Delo because it seems easier to find than Rotella. In fact, I saw the Delo in cases of three one-gallon containers at Costco this afternoon. Same price as Walmart give or take a few cents per gallon.
I, on the other hand, have a problem with a store that requires me to pay to shop there. Walmart works for me. Walmart stores are far more common than Costco anyhow and that matters when you are cruising and staying in small towns.
Here's a radical approach to engine oil selection...
If it's in the correct weight range called for my the engine manufacturer, AND
If it meets or exceeds the API or other standard specs (CJ-4, for example) called for my the engine manufacturer, AND
It is a reputable oil manufacturer, THEN
Use it.
I doubt anyone, anywhere, can show that an engine failed because they used Delo instead of Rotella, or instead of Castrol, or instead of Valvoline.
What's your theory on that?
What were those "nominal values" mentioned in the book or just what were the differences?
Here's a radical approach to engine oil selection...
If it's in the correct weight range called for my the engine manufacturer, AND
If it meets or exceeds the API or other standard specs (CJ-4, for example) called for my the engine manufacturer, AND
It is a reputable oil manufacturer, THEN
Use it.
I doubt anyone, anywhere, can show that an engine failed because they used Delo instead of Rotella, or instead of Castrol, or instead of Valvoline.
What's your theory on that?
What were those "nominal values" mentioned in the book or just what were the differences?
What is unusual here is, the brand name oils like Shell Rotella are not overly expensive so there's no real need to agonize over the price between them and store brands.
Here is a strange one: I once had an Auto Zone store refuse to take my used oil for recycling because it had been used in a diesel engine. I've never figured that one out.
That is odd. I normally buy my oil from my local Auto Zone because they take my used oil. I refuse to buy new oil from anywhere that won't take used oil.
Notice that your diesel lube oil turns black very quickly. That's carbon. Comparatively speaking gasoline engine lube oils only receive a small amount of carbon. Carbon is an abrasive and is cause for high levels of engine wear. That's why we're told to change our diesel engine oil regularly and often.
Hello Eric - likely the manual is very old and was developed at the time when oils were less robust in their design. The manufacturer selects oils they fell will best support their product and then run tests to set nominal values based upon that combination.
As oils improve the resultant oil parameters will also vary as these newer oils are introduced to older engines -not unexpected at all. In many cases when the same engines are available you will see the nominal values altered in newer manuals but that will not exists when engine lines do not continue when newer oils are introduced.
Yep, oil sample can tell you when to change. Engines running at light load might be able to extend the change interval, but there are other contaminants (fuel dilution, moisture content, etc) that may force it earlier. Those contaminants are rarely an issue with an engine in a normal duty cycle, but at light load they might be.
I run my 450 Cummins a mix of 7.7kts/950rpm/1.9gph and 21kts/2000rpm/11gph. Manual says change the oil at 250hrs. A sample taken at 200hrs indicated oil was less than half way through its service life. Based on that I go about 300hrs and sample every few changes. Results remain consistent. It just gives me the willies to go much longer.
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Has anyone had a oil sample analysed that came back with bad results?
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