Raw Water Pump Impeller Replacement
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Irish Rambler
Guru
- Joined
- Apr 29, 2014
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- 1,733
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- FRANCE
- Vessel Name
- 'Snow Mouse.'
- Vessel Make
- BROOM FLYBRIDGE 42.
The whole idea of the Knurled screw heads on the Speedseal conversion is that you don't need spanners, they go hand tight, you don't need to remove any of the screws to change an impeller, once loosened the cover plate swings up out of the way to allow you to change the impeller.
I would though use a tiny drop of Loctite to prevent loosening by vibration.
I would also look at modifying the plumbing to give you easy access in case.
I would highly recommend the Speedseal 'Run Dry' conversion.
The mods are done precisely to reduce your consumption of Band aids, BUT when I skin my knuckles (and I often do) I use Norwegian Hand cream from your local chemist for quick healing of said skinned knuckles.
I would though use a tiny drop of Loctite to prevent loosening by vibration.
I would also look at modifying the plumbing to give you easy access in case.
I would highly recommend the Speedseal 'Run Dry' conversion.
The mods are done precisely to reduce your consumption of Band aids, BUT when I skin my knuckles (and I often do) I use Norwegian Hand cream from your local chemist for quick healing of said skinned knuckles.
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RTF, that's exactly what I was considering. One question:
Is stainless a good idea?
I mean, I always go straight to the stainless section at the local hardware, but in this case I wonder. If something did go wrong, extracting a broken-off stainless bolt is nearly impossible.
My thought was to take one of the old ones out (the easiest one to reach, in hopes on only impacting one or two knuckles this time) and taking it to the hardware store for an exact match. And if it's carbon steel, I might decide to stay with that material, just change to a socket head.
Is the pump housing bronze, or just the cover plate? If so, is SS or carbon steel better?
Oh, and one more thing about Speedseal covers. I don't think there's room to flip mine up and out of the way. It's going to have to come off completely, so the slots in lieu of holes won't help me as much.
Is stainless a good idea?
I mean, I always go straight to the stainless section at the local hardware, but in this case I wonder. If something did go wrong, extracting a broken-off stainless bolt is nearly impossible.
My thought was to take one of the old ones out (the easiest one to reach, in hopes on only impacting one or two knuckles this time) and taking it to the hardware store for an exact match. And if it's carbon steel, I might decide to stay with that material, just change to a socket head.
Is the pump housing bronze, or just the cover plate? If so, is SS or carbon steel better?
Oh, and one more thing about Speedseal covers. I don't think there's room to flip mine up and out of the way. It's going to have to come off completely, so the slots in lieu of holes won't help me as much.
psneeld
Guru
Stainless in bronze is fine, especially if you are replacing an impeller every year or two. Been using mine for 4 years now and they come out like new every time, and I change the impeller every year at the 400 to 500 hour mark.
I have good access to my cover plate so I went with knurled head, allen wrench type machine screws (also known as socket caps).
I don't but you could leave the correct sized Allen wrench hanging within reach. Once the torque is cracked, you can finger loosen or tighten them.
Got this tip here years ago.
Sorry RTF, didn't see your pic above earlier.....good tip!
It takes enough time to get the impeller out that the one or two minutes for the screw removal is insignificant (if you have the allen wrench handy).
I have good access to my cover plate so I went with knurled head, allen wrench type machine screws (also known as socket caps).
I don't but you could leave the correct sized Allen wrench hanging within reach. Once the torque is cracked, you can finger loosen or tighten them.
Got this tip here years ago.
Sorry RTF, didn't see your pic above earlier.....good tip!
It takes enough time to get the impeller out that the one or two minutes for the screw removal is insignificant (if you have the allen wrench handy).
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RT Firefly
Enigma
Greetings,
Mr. CT. I think the original screws/bolts on ours are brass/bronze? Upon reassembly, with the old fasteners (hadn't purchased the new ones yet), I gave the threads a gloop of Super Lube to make subsequent removal easier. As to whether that will have any effect remains to be seen. I think if I experienced screw breakage the pump would have to come off in any case. Although it appears I may have more room to service our pumps, there is NO way I could fit a drill into the space.
I suspect the pump housing is bronze and the cover may be brass but I don't know for sure. In any case, I chose to go with SS.
Mr. CT. I think the original screws/bolts on ours are brass/bronze? Upon reassembly, with the old fasteners (hadn't purchased the new ones yet), I gave the threads a gloop of Super Lube to make subsequent removal easier. As to whether that will have any effect remains to be seen. I think if I experienced screw breakage the pump would have to come off in any case. Although it appears I may have more room to service our pumps, there is NO way I could fit a drill into the space.
I suspect the pump housing is bronze and the cover may be brass but I don't know for sure. In any case, I chose to go with SS.
