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Old 09-17-2019, 02:29 PM   #41
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I had meant through the cylinders after shutdown. I added recovery bottles so I am just pushing fluid around while running but not loosing any after shutdown by having it leak back into the cylinders.
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Old 09-17-2019, 02:41 PM   #42
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No, a perforated cylinder wall is like a 'one way valve in the early stages' as it pushes compression out into the coolant but is too fine to let water back in.
Having got the cylinder head checked did you check the head is true flat. I've also come across fine hair cracks between cylinders.
Good luck tracking it down, patience will get you there.
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Old 09-17-2019, 02:54 PM   #43
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Had the head totally redone...it was the block top that wasn't checked as closely as maybe it should have been.


But I thought it was good enough so did a mech that the gasket should have been enough.


Manifold was pressure checked. New gaskets including to exhaust elbow.


Because the next 1000 hours of so will be intracoastal...going with the top pros suggestion to wait for a secondary symptom in addition to the current tiny stream of bubbles in the recovery tank.
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Old 09-17-2019, 03:33 PM   #44
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I'd go with that for your next bit of cruising.
I've a steel straight edge ruler which has served me well over the years whenever I take a head off.
I would have thought the gasket would have done the trick but sometimes the darn things can be capricious and I've been caught out myself a time or two on the learning curve.
Much sweat and tears to get there but when she cracks off and runs like a mouse chawing tissue paper it gives a great sense of pride of a job well done.
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Old 09-17-2019, 03:35 PM   #45
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At 2900 hours SMOH your engine is still quite young. I would install new pushrods at the least. Probably new adjusting screws for the rockers, pull a couple out completely and see if the nice round ball on the end is becoming lopsided. Also for $185.00 each I would probably replace the rocker shafts unless you are positive they are not worn, mic. them. The rockers themselves are very expensive ($185.00 per each, times 12) They are very tough but they can wear, check them out, there should be very little, if any play between them and the shaft.

It's a PIA to get the injectors out because the bleed-off tube must come out, don't bother trying to get them out without taking off the tube. If my memory serves me though, I don't think the injectors need to come out but it is a very good idea to remove them and have them "pop tested" or just rebuild them. The head is so heavy and the injectors extend beyond the surface of the head that you will probably damage them just moving the head from boat to truck to shop.

There are little caps inside the end of the rocker shaft. You can knock them out and reuse them although they are cheap. The caps go on the front end of the front shaft and in the back end of the rear shaft.

While the head is off, make certain the bleeder valve on the port side of the exhaust manifold is free and working. You will need to open it to allow antifreeze to flow into the cooling tube which runs at an angle along the starboard side of the engine. Overheating will result due to an airlock if you don't get the tube filled.

Removing the head is actually quite straightforward. If it is in the way remove it.

American Diesel is your source for parts and information.

Good Luck, send pictures

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Old 09-17-2019, 07:03 PM   #46
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There are a few on here now with ongoing or possible head gasket replacements. So any further posts one might want to specify who they are giving advice to and make sure all the right repair jobs are lumped into the same barrel.



I am done and did all that needed to be done for a head gasket. Not sure if that was the issue but am way past injector, valves stuff.


As I said, waiting to see what happens next based on lots of good advice.


PS....lots of good advice available when American Diesel doesn't have the answer.
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Old 09-18-2019, 09:31 AM   #47
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The gasket leaked for a reason. If the head is going to a machine shop a very light cut will make sure it is really flat.

While its out , I would look at the valve seats , lapping them in is really simple.
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Old 09-18-2019, 09:36 AM   #48
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That's all what I had done at a locally famous speed shop.


Thus my thoughts it was the block top....or an install error on my part (remote but possible)....


Of it could be a block/liner issue.....as I think I ruled out manifold ones.
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Old 11-01-2019, 11:35 AM   #49
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Update. In August the starboard engine locked up after a few cranks. On checking there was a loss of coolant. Logic suggested a head gasket with water sitting in a cyclinder(s).
Did more reading and came across dampers losing springs and jamming up flywheel to bell housing. That seemed like an easier re & re than tearing into the head. Besides dampers should be replaced about 1500 hours operation. Sure enough that was the problem. Problem is gone, runs great again.
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