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Old 02-06-2020, 02:38 PM   #21
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And, my SP275 had an inner cooler end cap failure. A local shop braised closed the breach.

Also, Bolmac might be able to manufacture a stack for you. The issue is getting the end caps, they have to be made.

Based on a ton of research my general understanding regarding these engine is you just need to maintain them regularly, and don’t let them overheat.

(This is true in general)

I dropped the overheat sender from 205 to 200.

I’m also adding a raw water flow indicator and 200 degree exhaust temperature alarm to both of mine.

The exhaust temp will rise before the coolant, so an earlier warning.

Would the Cummins be nice, sure, but sometimes you just have to have a certain boat.

Good luck!

I added a Borel exhaust temp alarm to mine. Also it has 2 high water alarms and 2 Water in Fuel alarms in it. Borel builds the alarm to what you want, very nice to work with them. Simple install. Draws no power until it has an alarm.
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Old 02-06-2020, 03:04 PM   #22
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It will be obvious since the bypass hose will be in plain sight running by the intercooler.

Yes, I disclose everything I know about my boats when I sell them. The last 4 boats that I sold were bought by the first person that looked at them. I go through the boat with them and show what I have done and why. I just got a call from the second owner of a boat I sold 3 years ago asking about some of the work I did. I happily spent a couple of hours on the phone with him since some of the work I had done was not obvious and he was quite happy with what I told him. He said the person that I sold the boat couldn’t remember what all I had told him so he called me.
I was just wondering because I hear of people buying boats with NO idea what an intercooler even is while thinking, "Gee, with these engines, I can do such and such," while in this specific case, they might not be able to. Would you worry at all about a potential buyer arriving with expectations of a fully powered engine and then shying off when confronted with something less after your disclosure? I am NOT pushing an agenda here, just curious.
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Old 02-06-2020, 03:26 PM   #23
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Bypassing an inter cooler on Lehmans and Perkins Sabres (and Cat clones) is a relatively simple plumbing job. I had to do this once until boat back to home port due to a leaky after cooler. I was able to compare engines with and without inter cooler at real time. The biggest difference was higher inlet temperatures at normal cruise RPM with difference escalating as RPMs increased. Cooler charge air at any RPM is a plus and I chose not give that nicety up, thus installed a new after cooler.

Personally, I'd not run without the inter cooler in service for a long period unless I re-propped to suit the lower HP and reduce over loading. But, we really use our boat. For a low hour vessel docked mainly it may be a different decision.

Baker's point about over fueling is likely correct. I'd dig deep even if AD says engines are same whether Inter cooler installed or not from factory. On our engines the fuel settings, raw water pump, CCV setup and injectors are HP specific.
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Old 02-06-2020, 03:26 PM   #24
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No, I am not worried about that. When people see one of my boats, the boat will sell itself. I way over equip my boats and they are in really good condition. Besides 225 hp times 2 is way overkill for this boat. If they want 450 hp, remove 2 hoses and hook the pipes back up to the intercooler. About 10 minutes per engine.
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Old 02-06-2020, 03:28 PM   #25
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Bypassing an inter cooler on Lehmans and Perkins Sabres (and Cat twins) is a relatively simple plumbing job. I had to do this once until boat back to home port due to a leaky after cooler. I was able to compare engines with and without inter cooler at real time. The biggest difference was higher inlet temperatures at normal cruise RPM with difference escalating as RPMs increased. Cooler charge air at any RPM is a plus and I chose not give that nicety up, thus installed a new after cooler.

Personally, I'd not run without the inter cooler in service for a long period unless I re-propped to suit the lower HP and reduce over loading. But, we really use our boat. For a low hour vessel docked mainly it may be a different decision.

Baker's point about over fueling is likely correct. I'd dig deep even if AD says engines are same whether Inter cooler installed or not from factory. On our engines the fuel settings, raw water pump, CCV setup and injectors are HP specific.

Where would you suggest I dig deeper than AD? They are the source for info on Lehmans. I will trust them. Besides we almost never run over 1600 RPMs anyway.
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Old 02-06-2020, 07:03 PM   #26
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If you are really curious, you could do a test run with them unhooked and watch the exhaust.

On a purchase, insist on removal, pressure test, and a copy of the service results.

If they say no, then ask for $3k less—likely cost to have them built.

Also, get a membership to:

https://boatdiesel.com

And, check the Grand Banks owners forum.
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Old 02-10-2020, 02:11 PM   #27
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Lehman

I believe the 120HP and 135HP had 380 cubic inch blocks and the 225HP and larger had 363 cubic inch blocks
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Old 02-10-2020, 09:29 PM   #28
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SP 275's have worked fine for us

We have a 1989 Marine Trader with 2 SP275's. They have performed well for us. I too looked around to find information on the SP275's before we purchased the boat in 2015 with only limited success. The boat completed the Great Loop in 1995 with the original owner and my wife and I just complete the Great Loop in August of 2019. The inter-cooler and turbos add two more things you need to keep an eye on, but they are not complicated. We typically traveled at 1600-1800 RPM at 10-12 MPH. However, it was nice to be capable of moving at 17-18 MPH to make a bridge lift or last lock-through. They do smoke a little when cold and under-loaded, but that clears up once you have them loaded up. I am going to do a minor overhaul this winter to see if I can reduce some of the smoking issue (the mechanic believes we may have spent too much time at low-load/speed and we need to clean up the valve seats). Brian at AD has always been a great help. He told me to make sure the values have been replaced since the factory version. Brian said there was a recall due to value stem issues. It is easy to check that the stamp on valve stem is not an "L". I forget what the replacement stamp was supposed to be, but as long as they were replaced the recall work had be completed. I would not rule out a good boat because of SP275's.
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Old 02-11-2020, 10:33 AM   #29
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We just bought a boat with 275s and discovered shortly after purchase it had leaky aftercooler cores. Bomac marine could get them for us. They were $1800.00 each and took about 3 weeks to get from England. We were told they had just become available again after 4 years of unavailability. We just got back to the boat after some yard work so it is not tested yet. Good luck. We are headed from Tampa Bay to the keys, then home to Texas.
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Old 02-11-2020, 12:55 PM   #30
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Fantastic!
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Old 02-11-2020, 09:50 PM   #31
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We just bought a boat with 275s and discovered shortly after purchase it had leaky aftercooler cores. Bomac marine could get them for us. They were $1800.00 each and took about 3 weeks to get from England. We were told they had just become available again after 4 years of unavailability. We just got back to the boat after some yard work so it is not tested yet. Good luck. We are headed from Tampa Bay to the keys, then home to Texas.
Give us a holler when you get home and let us raise a glass!!!!
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Old 02-12-2020, 08:15 AM   #32
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Give us a holler when you get home and let us raise a glass!!!!
Where do you keep your boat? We will be in Waterford Harbor.
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Old 02-12-2020, 01:50 PM   #33
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Where do you keep your boat? We will be in Waterford Harbor.
South Shore Harbor for us!!!
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Old 05-18-2020, 12:11 PM   #34
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I have owned a 1989 Marine Trader with Sp275's for 2 years and spending time catching up on maintenance items, last year refurbed Heat Exchangers, and this spring just completed both intercoolers and one rebuilt turbo. Still experiencing 210-220 deg f on stbd guages, IR Heat gun reads no more than 170 on any part of engine,about 5 deg hotter than port. Can anyone tell me where to locate temp sender unit?
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Old 05-18-2020, 03:56 PM   #35
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Without a doubt you likely need a new sending unit. Contact Brian at American Diesel.
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Old 05-19-2020, 05:36 PM   #36
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I can’t speak on the 275’s but I just bought a 42’ CHB Sundeck with the SP160’s which are turbo’d without the intercooler. After talking with American Diesel I would also do anything possible to bypass the intercoolers. Even with that extra HP I wouldn’t imagine the extra knot of two would be worth the amount of extra fuel you would burn. PM me if you have any questions on the CHB’s and their gremlins. I’ve dedicated my last 4 months to trying to figure it all out and fix the big stuff (fuel tanks, leaking windows, soft decks). Cheers

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Old 05-19-2020, 05:44 PM   #37
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I bypassed the intercoolers on my SP225s this winter. It is simple. But I think that the 275 is a different story. I am not sure how involved it is or isn’t. Mine took about a half hour per engine to bypass. Some 1 1/8” hose and some clamps.
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Old 06-07-2020, 02:43 PM   #38
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Before bypassing after-cooler install exhaust pyrometer if possible first.
Then run slowly up to full governed rpm at full load noting exhaust temp every 100 rpm. This will give you baseline for maximum exhaust temp at full power and load with functioning after-cooler.
After bypassing after-cooler, keep pyrometer temperature 15% lower.
Did this to 375 hp 3208 after bypassing after-cooler.
Will re-pitch props at haul out as cant exceed 2400 rpm without exhaust temperature exceeding safe formula.
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