DIY rebuilding of diesel engine Yanmar 6LY

[Waterant]

Initial Disassembly, Flywheel and V-Pulley Removal, Mounting on Stand

Disassembly of the engine looks complex but actually was pretty straightforward (except for the damper plate and V-puller removal described below).
You just follow section 10.3 in the service manual.

In our boat, before we lifted the engine, I removed everything in advance just because i had time during the summer, and everything will have to be removed anyway. This did reduce the weight you need to handle but does not reduce the dimensions because everything is sitting inside the engine mounts outer width and inside the head cover vertical clearance:

• Drained oil, coolant, and raw water
  
• Disconnected the feed and return fuel lines, raw water line, throttle control and external wiring.
  
• Removed the turbo and mixing elbow
  
• Removed intercooler
  
• Removed oil cooler
  
• Removed fresh water cooler
  
• Removed gear oil cooler
  
• Removed alternator
  
• Removed starter
  
• Removed all the hoses, tubes, and wiring i could get to.
  
• Removed the bolts connecting the shaft coupling
  
  The engine had only gearbox attached, the head, a high-pressure pump, and a front gear assembly with V-Pulley.
  
  

Now, remove 4 mount nuts, and you are ready for liftoff

After I got the trailer with the engine into the garage, we used the engine crane to get the engine on its base off the trailer (see photo).

Next was removing the gearbox and the same engine crane was used for that. The gearbox weights around 250LB

Damper Plate Removal

A tricky part was removing the damper plate, which is recessed inside the flywheel (see photo). There is no obvious way to pull it from there because it's not mounted on the surface of the flywheel like on my previous engines but is sitting inside of it.
I removed all the bolts and pushed the smaller coupling (where the gearbox shaft was inserted) inside by half an inch. got a screwdriver into slots between that coupling and the damper plate and was able to pry it out little by little. Do not get too excited because this plate looks aluminum and you need to take care not to damage it.

After removing this plate, flywheel and flywheel cover, we mounted the block on the engine stand with 4x M10x100mm bolts which went into the holes used to attach the flywheel cover.

That 1T engine mounts from PrincessAuto (it looks exactly like the one from Harbour Freight) is a bit underbuilt for this engine and you need 2 people to rotate the block even when you have a stripped-down block on it. but it works and is much easier to work on the engine when you can rotate it around from time to time.

The next challenging part of this project was removing the V-pulley from the crankshaft. I have a whole separate thread about it and here is the summary:

V-Pulley Removal

Took me 3 weeks of heating and pulling with different gadgets including a 10T hydraulic jack to get that v-belt pulley off the shaft. Hopefully, yours will be easier to remove.

Save $400!- I started with using a large 8" 3-jaw pulley with jaws pulling on the pulley back wall and the middle screw pushing against the bolt screwed into the shaft. That bolt has a small punch in the middle so it looks like this is how it is supposed to be done by design.
That did not work - i broke off the piece from the pulley and f*ed up the bolt's thread (I guess I did not tighten that bolt enough in the shaft thread)
The bolt is cheap but the new pulley is $400 which is a bit disappointing because this damage could be avoided.

This is how we did that:

1) Got the best torch i could find: Bernzomatic TS8000
https://www.amazon.ca/Bernzomatic-TS8000-Intensity-Trigger-Start/dp/B0019CQL60
I can confirm it runs much hotter than a less expensive torch i used before using from the same MAP bottle. Without a large Oxy - Acetylene setup, which i could not find for rent and is expensive for a one-time job, TS8000 is the next best thing.
Do not bother with small Map/Oxy torches with small bottles - i tried it - the flame is very small and does not heat much.

2) I got a custom plate made from 1" thick steel with 6 bolt holes and 1 large middle hole for the central push screw.

3) The plate was screwed to the pulley by 6x M10x100mm bolts class 12. Class 8.8 I tried before just bent. Also, 6 screws vs 2 helped to make more even pull. We tried a smaller plate with only 2 screws and the plate was getting bent.

4) Used the largest pulley remover screw we could find. It's 8", one from Princess Auto.
https://www.princessauto.com/en/8-in-3-jaw-gear-puller/product/PA0008045992
it weighs something like 10LB and is a beast, but it could not do this job on its own without the plate - just broke a piece off the pulley.

6) I put as much tension as we could on the screw and heat the pulley for a few minutes to 150-200C all around

7) Started putting more pressure on the screw with 1/2 wrench and 5' pipe over it while lightly taping with a small hummer around the pulley.

8) A bang and we are off

I think the faster heating and huge force of the 5' pipe did the trick, but you need the hardware to sustain this force, so nothing breaks before the pulley moves.

 

[Waterant]

Cleaning the Injectors at Home

Cleaning the Injectors at Home

My experience here is one of the reasons I decided to do this rebuild myself instead of trying to find a local shop that will do it.

I took the injectors out of the engine a long time ago so i can access the cylinders and put some mystery oil inside drying to free them up. They were sitting in the box and I finally decided to get them rebuilt.

Found a local shop that specializes in rebuilding diesel injectors and has good Google reviews (something like 4.5 out of 5).

I brought them the injectors to have them cleaned and tested. I did this years ago for my previous small Yanmar engine in a sailboat. It cost something like $50 per injector and worked well, but the previous shop I used is not in business any longer.

I got a call two days later:

"The testing is down. All injectors are bad. Nozzles are seized. We have to rebuild them. It will cost $370 per new nozzle and $40 per injector for the service."

* prices are even scarier in CAD $ with a total of $3300 CAD to do six injectors

A whole new injector for this engine is $485, and a new nozzle is $178 from toadmarinesupply.com!

I picked up my injectors, they explained to me that they took apart one of them; the needle was stuck inside the nozzle, so all nozzles had to be replaced. And gave me a highly scientific report saying, "Injectors are bad." and charged me $150 for the testing.

so, here we go. this is a professional shop with good reviews. I'm sure my injectors would work well after they are done with them.
... but at what cost?!

Back to Youtube. Many videos show the guys taking apart and cleaning similar injectors using a carb cleaner and a small wire. I even ordered the set of torch nozzle cleaning wires: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089B2FBCN?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
but did not end up using them. I found comments saying this can damage the internal flow of the injector.

This is a photo of the old injectors looking pretty tired:

- I took them all apart (you need a 15mm deep socket on one end and 12mm open wrench on another). I fixed 12mm wrench in the bench vise, put an injector end on it, and unscrewed another end with 15mm deep socket with a 2' extension on the wrench - they are torqued pretty well so give it some love.

only 2 needles (out of 6) got out of the nozzle more or less easily. The rest was seized inside.
* if you do this, be careful not to lose the small parts like pins, washers and springs - they are tiny

- I put everything inside of glass container (it has to be glass, not plastic)

- Filled it with 50/50 of ATF/Aceton mixture

- Warmed ultrasonic cleaner to 50C and let the clean cycle run for 20 minutes.

- After 20 minutes, I let it rest for 15 minutes and ran it again for 20min

- After that, I was able to remove the rest of the needles easily

- I drained ATF/Aceton mixture and filled out the glass container with Evaporust (https://www.amazon.ca/Evapo-Rust-Or...gradable/dp/B00GRSOJSS/ref=asc_df_B00GRSOJSS/) and ran another clean cycle

- They came out looking like new:

- I tested all 6 with a break cleaner tub inserted into the nozzle, and the spay pattern is just perfect on all of them.

I can now do the same for the six injectors from my other engine, and it will not cost me anything extra
$3300 saved is $3300 made

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. W. GOOD job on the injectors. I'm assuming when you checked the spray pattern you did so without the springs in place?


I don't know when people became "parts changers" rather than "repairmen" but it is VERY frustrating, to me at least, when one fault of a mechanism necessitates the replacement of the whole mechanism sometimes at great expense. Could be, at today's labour rates, repair $$ exceeds replacement costs or it's simply too much trouble for the "technician".



Two examples:

1) Many moons ago (1980?) I drove an electronic fuel injected VW beetle (1974 model?). It was running poorly so off to my mechanic I went. Turns out there was a module that contained some sort of ballast resisters encased in an aluminum housing in the engine compartment. Housing was very corroded due to road salt. Kosta (mechanic) took the housing apart and re-soldered a corroded/detached wire. Put the resister bundle into a plastic bag, filled the bag with grease and I was on my way. Saved me about $200 as I recall. Kosta and his brother George would always attempt to repair rather than replace....



2) Recently acquired a free lawn tractor (for the grand kids to race around the yard). Starting initially was hit and miss and eventually impossible. Took the starter solenoid apart, cleaned up the corroded contacts and it now starts every time. Only about $20, but still. Took me less than 1/2 hour.

 

[Pete Meisinger]

I think that putting the injectors back together is a bit more complicated than just sticking the parts in and tightening everything. Probably a good idea to take them in and have them "pop" tested before you re install.

pete

 

[Waterant]

I think that putting the injectors back together is a bit more complicated than just sticking the parts in and tightening everything.

Where do you think the complication can be?
It's just 9 parts screwed together on one thread to a specific torque.

 

[jleonard]

I think that putting the injectors back together is a bit more complicated than just sticking the parts in and tightening everything. Probably a good idea to take them in and have them "pop" tested before you re install.

pete

By reading the author's posts, he may be better served buying an injector tester from ebay and doing it himself. With 12 injectors to test and adjust, it should easily pay for itself.

 

[Waterant]

I'm assuming when you checked the spray pattern you did so without the springs in place?

Yes, i tested only the nozzle to see if they are cleaned. it's not proper "injector testing", i may test them later when everything else is ready.

I don't know when people became "parts changers" rather than "repairmen"

i think "modern techs" do not care about you saving money. it's much easier to do a quick swap, charge for and hour of labor and have the customer pick up the cost of new parts. and off you go. Next!..

Saved me about $200 as I recall. Kosta and his brother George would always attempt to repair rather than replace....

If I find an old-school craftsman mechanic who will care about keeping my expense down by repairing things instead of changing them, I will cherish him like a good dentist. for now, I'm on my own.

2) Recently acquired a free lawn tractor (for the grand kids to race around the yard). Starting initially was hit and miss and eventually impossible. Took the starter solenoid apart, cleaned up the corroded contacts and it now starts every time. Only about $20, but still. Took me less than 1/2 hour.

feels good, eh?

 

[Waterant]

he may be better served buying an injector tester from ebay and doing it himself. With 12 injectors to test and adjust, it should easily pay for itself.

It may not be a bad idea. Thanks.
it costs around the same as one test of the injectors by a shop.

https://www.vevor.com/injector-nozzle-tester-c_10329/fuel-test-400bar-6000psi-diesel-fuel-injector-tester-with-dual-scale-gauge-p_010783068030

 

[KnotYet]

It would have been better to have kept the injector parts separate from each other.
Injectors are very precision assemblies with tolerances of .0001". The engine's finest.
Now that the parts are mixed up they will likely need to be shimmed differently.

Actual injector testing is done at the operating pressure of the injector pump.
Have the injectors tested on professional equipment for pattern and pop pressure.
This is an area where you can quickly cause destruction in an otherwise good engine.

Even parts as simple as lifters, push rods and rocker arms should be kept matched up.

Just my $0.002.

 

[twistedtree]

I don't know when people became "parts changers" rather than "repairmen" but it is VERY frustrating, to me at least, when one fault of a mechanism necessitates the replacement of the whole mechanism sometimes at great expense. Could be, at today's labour rates, repair $$ exceeds replacement costs or it's simply too much trouble for the "technician".

To me it's more a lack of diagnostic ability, so techs guess and swap parts hoping the problem goes away. And their guessing and swapping is on your dime, not theirs.


I think it comes down to two things. 1) Aptitude, and 2) it's your money, not theirs.


Most techs just aren't that good at figuring out how to diagnose a problem, and how to interpret the findings. So they guess, replace, and pray. And diagnostic fault codes are a double edge sword, helping make a better "guess", but further discouraging thought and diagnostics by the tech. Many moons ago when I worked as a mechanic we used to take a lot of pride in diagnosing and getting a fix right the first time. If you got it wrong, it felt like a failure.

 

[KnotYet]

Here's another post rather than adding to the one above.
I'll take the side of the injector service shop. What they told you sounds OK.
Don't forget that your precise injectors bathed in salt water for a long time.

The nozzles are certainly beyond saving. Removing the rust hasn't fixed them.
Be very cautious where the new ones come from. Avoid Chinese knock-offs!
The injector bodies may or may not be salvageable. This is no place to cheap out.

 

[Waterant]

Even parts as simple as lifters, push rods and rocker arms should be kept matched up.

Right. It would be a good idea but too late now for the injectors.
I keep most things pared and labeled but on an engine with under 300 hours, it probably does not matter as much as on an engine with 3000 hours because the parts did not get much wear yet. so it's pretty close to using new parts and those are not paired anyway.

 

[KnotYet]

Right. It would be a good idea but too late now for the injectors.
I keep most things pared and labeled but on an engine with under 300 hours, it probably does not matter as much as on an engine with 3000 hours because the parts did not get much wear yet. so it's pretty close to using new parts and those are not paired anyway.

See my post above.
Do not use them until they have been rebuilt with new, OEM nozzles.
The best shops use state of the art machines that measure even new
assemblies very precisely and calibrate as needed, with a paper trail.

You are posting here for the 'group's advice. This will save you much
more than what the injector service costs. Bad injectors kill engines.

 

[Mako]

It would have been better to have kept the injector parts separate from each other... Now that the parts are mixed up they will likely need to be shimmed differently... Even parts as simple as lifters, push rods and rocker arms should be kept matched up.

That's the way I learned it also. From rebuilding minibikes as a kid (Honda Z50) to the Jimmies in my boat. Every bolt, washer, etc. goes back to the same exact place.

$3300 saved is $3300 made

That's exactly what Ben Franklin said 250 years ago when he rebuilt his diesel. Except it was only a penny back then (inflation!).

 

[Waterant]

Don't forget that your precise injectors bathed in salt water for a long time.

They did not. The boat was kept in freshwater so there was no salt water anywhere in the engine. While some water got to the cylinders and down to the oil pan, the engine did not have that much water inside to flood the injectors or even reach the camshaft.

I'll post the photos of the cleaned parts later - most of the insides do not have any rust damage. 2 camshaft bearings look discolored, but there is no rust damage on them. It would be much worse if things were staying in the water.

While some things may be better to be left to the professionals but not at a cost equal to just buying a new part.

 

[KnotYet]

They did not. The boat was kept in freshwater so there was no salt water anywhere in the engine. While some water got to the cylinders and down to the oil pan, the engine did not have that much water inside to flood the injectors or even reach the camshaft.

I'll post the photos of the cleaned parts later - most of the insides do not have any rust damage. 2 camshaft bearings look discolored, but there is no rust damage on them. It would be much worse if things were staying in the water.

While some things may be better to be left to the professionals but not at a cost equal to just buying a new part.

I stand corrected. However, how does water on top of pistons avoid the
injectors?
I suppose there was less damage with fresh water but any corrosion is too much.

When I bought new nozzles I had them installed and tested with
state of the art equipment. The extra it cost was for peace of mind.

 

[Waterant]

I stand corrected. However, how does water on top of the pistons avoid the
injectors?

To clarify - the water was not standing on top of the pistons or i would see at least some corrosion on the pistons and they cleaned up looking as new.
In one of my photos, the fluid on top of the pistons is Mistery Oil which i put in each cylinder thru the injector holes when i was trying to free up the pistons without a full rebuild. I probably forgot to mention that in the first post.

A good point about keeping the injector's parts matched.
I checked the schematics again and see this is not the same shim that can be doubled or tripled as I thought, but it's a "shim set", part 114250-53400, which probably has different-sized shims in it:

https://yanmarshop.com/en-GB/catalog/all/servicebom/yanmardata-916887/yanmar-marine-marine-main-engine-small-ly-series-6lya-stp-fig-29-fuel-injection-valve-fuel-injection-pipe

I'll measure my shims with a micrometer to see if they are all identical. If they are not the same, I'll get 6 new sets and have a shop to assemble and test the injectors.
Thanks.

 

[KnotYet]

To clarify - the water was not standing on top of the pistons or i would see at least some corrosion on the pistons and they cleaned up looking as new.
In one of my photos, the fluid on top of the pistons is Mistery Oil which i put in each cylinder thru the injector holes when i was trying to free up the pistons without a full rebuild. I probably forgot to mention that in the first post.

A good point about keeping the injector's parts matched.
I checked the schematics again and see this is not the same shim that can be doubled or tripled as I thought, but it's a "shim set", part 114250-53400, which probably has different-sized shims in it:

https://yanmarshop.com/en-GB/catalog/all/servicebom/yanmardata-916887/yanmar-marine-marine-main-engine-small-ly-series-6lya-stp-fig-29-fuel-injection-valve-fuel-injection-pipe

I'll measure my shims with a micrometer to see if they are all identical. If they are not the same, I'll get 6 new sets and have a shop to assemble and test the injectors.
Thanks.

Forgive my misunderstanding but the water entered the engine through the
exhaust system then entered the exhaust valves? Please correct me if wrong.
Unless it came in as a vapor, liquid water was on top of piston(s) and that's
where the injector nozzle tips are.

 

[Waterant]

Forgive my misunderstanding but the water entered the engine through the
exhaust system then entered the exhaust valves? Please correct me if wrong.
Unless it came in as a vapor, liquid water was on top of piston(s) and that's
where the injector nozzle tips are.

could be but it does not really matter.
as long as the injectors will do what they suppose to do which is to produce 6 uniform jets at a specified pressure, I'll call them good and move on.

 

[DDW]

Many moons ago when I worked as a mechanic we used to take a lot of pride in diagnosing and getting a fix right the first time. If you got it wrong, it felt like a failure.

The problem with that today is that people are not trained to think, and you can't afford to pay them to think poorly at $150/hr. Also the shop has to stand behind their work, many (most?) shops have very high come-back rates so to make money they need to charge you double.

It might be interesting for the OP to estimate the time spent on these injectors so far (has to include thinking, working, cleaning up after the work, reassembly and test which hasn't yet been done). Multiply that by the shop rate. The estimate might seem like a bargain. Of course, that presupposes that you can earn $150/hr (or whatever the shop rate is), post tax, to break even. What you hope is that the shop has experts who have done this many times before, and all the equipment required close at hand, and can do it in half the time it would take you. Unfortunately in the modern world this isn't often the case.

The thing I like about doing it myself (and I do virtually all my boat work myself) is I know what went into it, I know the quality of the work, I know exactly what components or materials were used, and I know how to deal with any issues in the future. I am constantly amazed by stories of people discovering something new (sometimes mid-ocean) on their boats - one that comes to mind was a story about the boat flooding mid ocean and being traced to 2 open and abandon cockpit drain thru hulls. Does nobody have any curiosity about what's in their boat? I've crawled through every compartment and crevice and studied every detail before I even committed to buy the thing...

 

[KnotYet]

could be but it does not really matter.
as long as the injectors will do what they suppose to do which is to produce 6 uniform jets at a specified pressure, I'll call them good and move on.

I apologize for seeming dogmatic or preachy about your injector situation.
Maybe another TF'er with more credentials than I have will contribute here.

You are setting yourself up for an expensive lesson that I hope to prevent.
(Also, the volume of the injection event matters greatly.)

I can think of nothing easier for an amateur to get wrong than injector repair. Ok, maybe injector pump repair but that doesn't apply here.
There is almost no part that can damage an engine faster than a bad injector. Ok, maybe a broken oil pump but you have safeguards: your pressure gauge and alarms.
There is no equivalent safegaurd that tells you an injector is malfunctioning
until it is too late.
The only safeguard is to ensure they are good and tested from day 1.
I wouldn't waste money on testing the old ones. New OEM nozzles.

The stuck needles tell you the affected nozzles were bad. They need
to be perfect at an electron microscopic level of perfection. There is
no shame in not knowing any of this. I only know it because I have
had to replace nozzles and was lucky to get good information along
with my new good parts. The shop wasn't trying to rip you off, IMO.

 

[Waterant]

The shop wasn't trying to rip you off, IMO.

They wanted to charge me $370 per new nozzle and $40 per injector to assemble.
A new original Yanmar nozzle retail price is $167 from toadmarinesupply.com, which is a large and well-known diesel part supplier: https://shop.toadmarinesupply.com/ships_store/?p=numberresults&pn=119574-53050&storetype=mdd&x=16&y=13

Even if they do not have any special arrangement with suppliers for better than retail pricing, the shop wanted to charge me more than double of the retail price for each nozzle.

To me, this is the classic definition of a rip-off.
if they asked anything close to $167 per nozzle, I would gladly have them do this.

They need
to be perfect at an electron microscopic level of perfection.

i think the precision of those mechanical injectors is greatly overrated, probably by some shops to justify the high price to screw them together and apply some pressure to see when they start spraying.

This is from the Yanmar's service manual:

Check the cleaning kit: it includes a brass brush to clean the outside and a small wire to clean the holes.
Anything you can clean with a wire can not possibly be on the electron microscopic level of perfection.

All you need this mechanical injector to do is to open at the correct pressure and keep the spray pattern consistent. It's just a small valve with 6 holes. Nothing more.
See the note in the manual "excessive difference in spray and injection angles".

"Excessive" is not 1% or even 10% difference. It means a massive difference in spray pattern which you can see without any high-precision equipment.

I may be wrong, but this is from the manufacturer's manual, not from a shop that has a monetary interest in keeping this more complicated than it really is.

 

[KnotYet]

The wanted to charge me $370 per new nozzle and $40 per injector to assemble.
A new original Yanmar nozzle retail price is $167 from toadmarinesupply.com which is a large and well-known diesel part supplier: https://shop.toadmarinesupply.com/ships_store/?p=numberresults&pn=119574-53050&storetype=mdd&x=16&y=13

Even if they do not have any special arrangement with suppliers for better than retail pricing, the shop wanted to charge me more than double of the retail price for each nozzle.

To me, this is a classic definition of a rip-off.

And if they asked anything close to $167 per nozzle, I would gladly have them do this.

Fair enough.
Injectors are easily mailable so no need to limit yourself to a local shop.
Find a shop you are more comfortable dealing with that charges less.
I sent my injector bodies to a shop 1000 miles away and bought nozzles from them.
No worries and no regrets and came with a warranty.

 

[Waterant]

I sent my injector bodies to a shop 1000 miles away and bought nozzles from them.

can you share the contact details of that shop? after my recent experience, I do not trust the shop i went to and would prefer to work with someone who is recommended on this forum.

 

[KnotYet]

DFIS in Portland, OR. They were also pretty helpful on the phone.
Diesel Fuel Injection Services – Repair and Service in Scappoose, Oregon
I have no idea if they work on Yanmar diesels, though.
They also rebuilt my injection pump. It came back looking and working like new.

This outfit: DBW LLC – TDI Engines and Fuel Systems only works on VW and Mercedes injectors, but I
include their site because of the wealth of information I got doing business with them.

As helpful as the Yanmar drawings from the manual are, your water-damaged nozzles
need more than routine cleaning. The iron in the rust you removed can't be put back.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,

Mr. W. I'm quite sure Mr. KY has the best of intentions in his advice to you. Perhaps his knowledge of electron microscopy is dated...

 

[KnotYet]

:lol:

 

[Waterant]

Getting to the guts

The next steps are:

- Remove the bonnet (just 4 nuts at the top)
- Remove the rocker arm assembly as one unit
- Remove 26 M14 head bolts following the reverse tightening pattern

Tightening pattern (do in reverse to remove the bolts)

Those bolts are very tight, I used a 2' pupe on the wrench to break them loose. After that, i used a small impact driver with 1/4 shank to 1/2 socket converter to unscrew the bolts all the way.

One thing I learned and followed - is never to use a large impact wrench/driver on anything on those engines. It's not safe - you can break bolts and pull the threads. A 2' extension tube over a wrench works well for everything.

The head is heavy (100 lb or maybe more), use an engine crane to remove it.

- Remove the gears cover, gears and fresh water pump pulley

- Remove the V-Pulley key by placing a sharp edge of a screwdriver or a chisel in the front middle section and taping it toward the top to drive it up

- I removed the crankshaft bearing with a small 2-arm pulley extractor. I warmed it up a little, and it got removed without any issues. I will replace it so the pulley extractor works fine, but it's not good for the bearing. if you want to keep that bearing, you may try something else. There is not much clearance so the worse case, use a pulley extractor and replace the bearing to a new one. It's like $30 - not worth an aggravation.

- Rotate the engine over, and unscrew oil pan bolts (a gazillion of them).

They are all different lengths, so i put them in the holes made in a piece of cardboard in the order they were removed.

- Remove intermediate insert (fewer bolts), oil pump and pickup

- Remove rod bearing cups - mark each cup number and orientation, set aside

- Tap the pistons out - mine filled out easily together with the cylinder sleeves.

- I bolted end cups back to the rods to keep everything together

- Tap the pistons out of the sleeves. Mine have rusted to the sleeves (the main reason the engine was seized), so i put them into ultrasonic cleaner in a glass jar of Evaporust. I ran a few cycles and was able to take the pistons out without an issue after.

- Remove the camshaft by unscrewing a plate behind the camshaft gear - there is no need to remove the gear from the camshaft. Carefully pull the camshaft out

- Remove tappets and mark each for cylinder number and intake/exhaust side. (this is not in the service manual but important to keep each tappet assigned to the correct hole).

- Remove the front gear plate

- Remove crankshaft bearings cups (they are torqued well, use extension). Cups are marked with the number and orientation, no need for additional marking. I marked the bolts.

- Remove the crankshaft (heavy, use a crane)

- On the head, Use a spring compressor to remove the keepers, valve springs and valves. I put painter's tape over each assembly and marked it with the location and side.

- I put each valve into the holes on a cardboard.

- I disassembled the pistons by removing the springs and pushing the pin out and put them into ultrasonic cleaner for a couple of cycles to free up rusted rings

One tip I learned is to put all the removed hardware in a ziplock (small and large) and label each bag. Much easier to keep track of things.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. W. My humblest apologies if I mis-advised you on the purchase of the Princess 1/2" impact wrench I though would easily remove your stubborn pulley. I still don't feel it was totally wasted $$ as, IMO, it is a useful tool. That's a LOT of oil pan bolts!

 

[twistedtree]

Awesome job. Almost makes me want to go out and rebuild another engine somewhere..... but alas, I'm enjoying things that run properly and will savor the moment....