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Old 10-23-2017, 05:34 AM   #21
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Anyone know what the thing is that's sitting on the side of the Hi Press. pump .. ? is that the shut off solenoid ?

Tx FB
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Old 10-23-2017, 07:08 AM   #22
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Here it is:
https://www.sbmar.com/articles/cummi...noid-location/
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Old 10-23-2017, 07:38 AM   #23
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Tx. Chris ...... duuhhh I'm dumb !
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Old 11-24-2017, 11:51 PM   #24
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How did you go did you fix this?

I had a similar problem after doing a fuel filter change, I could get the engine running but it would starve for fuel and die, and I would have to reprime the fuel system again, I was scratching my head for a while after all these are pretty basic, i then realized the old filter I took off did not have a rubber O ring on it, I removed the new filter and found the old O ring was still on the fuel filter housing, I removed the old O ring replaced the filter, reprimed and have not had a problem since, but now I always double check with any filter change that the old O ring is off first.
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Old 02-26-2018, 05:42 PM   #25
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Reading this thread I remembered a situation with our Cummins.We once had a problem with starting the engine which (after half a day searching) appeared to be caused by one of the push buttons to shutt off the engines. This button was mounted on the flybridge of our President 385 Sundeck. For some reason, moisture or dirt, the push button made a connection which therefor continuously deactivated the solenoid. No problems whatsoever before. If you have a shut off button on the engine check them by disconnecting it. Maybe this is the answer to your problem. Good luck. Cleaning the button with WD-40 did the trick.


You can also connect a wire directly from the + of the battery to the solenoid. If then the engine starts (or if you hear a click) you know that the solenoid does not get (enough) Volts.
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Old 02-26-2018, 07:17 PM   #26
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This:
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Old 02-26-2018, 08:15 PM   #27
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Quote:
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This:
Sorry, that's not the solenoid for the CAV pump. It's this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CAV-DPA-12-...-/390558387709

And you can see it's not in the hundreds of dollars as reported. If it's in fact in need of replacement, it's an easy job.

A reliable test to eliminate the solenoid as the problem is to unscrew it from the pump, remove the plunger and spring, and screw it back in. If the problem disappears, the solenoid is the culprit. You can run the engine that way until the replacement part arrives, but you'll need to shut it down at the injector pump. The shutoff lever is on the top of the pump throttle housing, it's in the upper left corner opposite the throttle cable, and is a short lever with a spring. Just rotate the lever and wah-lah: Shut down.

I had one go intermittent- how sweet, it would just shut down, no warning. Started right back up. Disconcerting.

Priming, as Ski indicated can be a bear. Put throttle wide open, hand on the ready while cranking. Be careful you don't load up the exhaust with water, you may want to close the thru-hull to prevent that until it fires.
There are two priming ports on the pump, on is on the side of the throttle housing, the other is on the circumference of the distributor section of the pump at about 10 o'clock looking at the fuel line end of the pump. It helps to purge them if the pump gets air.
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