Converting manual push button windlass to Remote control

[jclays]

Good morning
I have a Lewmar windlass on my boat with the push buttons up on the bow. Lewmar and several after market makers have a wireless remote control conversion kit for these. Have any of you converted your windlass to wireless remote?
Sometimes I am single handing my boat and staying at the helm on the flybridge while I deploy or retrieve the anchor would be slick.
Thanks
Jim

 

[DavidM]

I am not a big fan of remote controlled windlasses. A failure at the wrong time could cut off a finger at worst, or wake you up in the middle of the night with the chain rattling down at best (actually happened to me).

Why not wire directly to the helm, assuming you already have solenoid control. It takes a three conductor cable of 18 gauge or so up to the helm from the solenoid and a rocker switch which Lewmar sells.

David

 

[GoneFarrell]

Jim,
Yes, I went to radio remote and removed the deck level switches up forward, no regrets.

I used a Jeep/4x4 remote winch control kit to drive the large solenoids that run the windlass. I find it much safer to use as I can move about up forward to monitor chain retrieval without awkward positioning over the old deck switches. The winch kit can deal with the solenoid loads & back EMF when it goes open circuit. Garage door stuff is lighter indoor duty stuff. And it works from the flybridge for deployment, but I still have to go forward to get the anchor set up to deploy.

If you have good solenoids already then you're good to go. The worst part of the conversion was placing the new stuff up forward in the locker. Put it in a plastic junction box that seals up tight. I went with a Imtra control block for 3-wire motor in my Tigres windlass, as the old solenoids with pin switches were worn out.

The remote should have integral on/off switch for the radio in addition to up/down.
And a master power switch in the main load line to the windlass (you probably already have that.)

Here is an example: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Rem...180612&sprefix=wirelss+winch+r,aps,324&sr=8-4

 

[psneeld]

Have a remote control, foot switches and up/down switch at helm.


Lot's of options for not much money or work.


I really like the remote for if I am below and working in the chain locker and want to feed chain in or out.

 

[kchace]

I also have foot switches and helm switches up and down. At the suggestion of someone here, I added a wireless remote for those times when I'm looking over the bow washing the chain as it comes up, etc. The wireless remote I got was very inexpensive on Ebay and very easy to wire. It wires across the activation switch. It has worked flawlessly. The below link is one example.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/STEGODON-W...031841?hash=item3428932721:g:RrMAAOSwTfVex4fl

Ken

 

[AKDoug]

With a mixed rode a remote switch is an invitation to disaster! Between the splice to the chain and the occasional twist in the nylon rode it can really screw up fast, requiring a lot of effort and sometimes disassembly to get operating again. A knuckle in the nylon can jam into the stripper guide (and has), which is only a big deal in wind and current, but could put you dangerously close to the shore in a worst case scenario.

So I stand on the bow and watch as it is coming on board.

 

[Capt Jack]

I also bought a remote off of eBay cheap and am very happy with it. Easy install and works when I want it to.

John

 

[tpbrady]

None of these inexpensive remotes are fused on 12vdc+. When you installed them, did you fuse it?

Tom

 

[jclays]

Jim,
Yes, I went to radio remote and removed the deck level switches up forward, no regrets.

I used a Jeep/4x4 remote winch control kit to drive the large solenoids that run the windlass. I find it much safer to use as I can move about up forward to monitor chain retrieval without awkward positioning over the old deck switches. The winch kit can deal with the solenoid loads & back EMF when it goes open circuit. Garage door stuff is lighter indoor duty stuff. And it works from the flybridge for deployment, but I still have to go forward to get the anchor set up to deploy.

If you have good solenoids already then you're good to go. The worst part of the conversion was placing the new stuff up forward in the locker. Put it in a plastic junction box that seals up tight. I went with a Imtra control block for 3-wire motor in my Tigres windlass, as the old solenoids with pin switches were worn out.

The remote should have integral on/off switch for the radio in addition to up/down.
And a master power switch in the main load line to the windlass (you probably already have that.)

Here is an example: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Rem...180612&sprefix=wirelss+winch+r,aps,324&sr=8-4

Thanks for the info.
I too ordered the same device that you did.

 

[GoneFarrell]

OK. Be sure the chain is off the wheel when you start up first time, to verify direction of travel. I put the control on a lanyard with a float so I can use both hands forward, usually boat hooking kelp or debris.

 

[jclays]

OK. Be sure the chain is off the wheel when you start up first time, to verify direction of travel. I put the control on a lanyard with a float so I can use both hands forward, usually boat hooking kelp or debris.

Connected the wiring for the remote. Yellow and white to the F1 and F2, red to the positive terminals out of the control box. Black to the negative that the windlass and control box negative is attached to.
Turned on the remote control pushed up got a click out of the receiver. Pushed down got a click out of the receiver. No movement on the windlass. Tried again nothing...No clicks. No movement. Checked my connections still nothing.
Windlass works on the foot buttons.

 

[GoneFarrell]

jclays,
OK, so now the fun begins. Do you have a volt/ohm meter? Need to verify that you are getting 12 VDC into and out of the new black box. Meter leads may need alligator clips to do this solo, or a helper to assist.

My best guess from here is you are not wired correctly to the relay in the new box, given that you can hear it click both ways. Need 12VDC to the common terminal of the relay in the new box.

 

[O C Diver]

Something else to check, the solenoids that control the windlass may be activated by foot buttons being either the positive or the negative source. You want to verify the buttons are switching the positive, not the negative.

Ted

 

[jclays]

jclays,
OK, so now the fun begins. Do you have a volt/ohm meter? Need to verify that you are getting 12 VDC into and out of the new black box. Meter leads may need alligator clips to do this solo, or a helper to assist.

My best guess from here is you are not wired correctly to the relay in the new box, given that you can hear it click both ways. Need 12VDC to the common terminal of the relay in the new box.

It clicked only once each way. Now nothing

 

[jclays]

I ordered a new controller set. I believe I fried the current one

 

[Shrew]

I have foot switches at the bow and a wired switch at the upper helm. I don't drop anchor from below because you have better all around visibility and can find spaces easier from the upper helm.

I honestly have never understood the need for a wireless remote control. When would you ever need to drop the anchor in a location OTHER than the helm or the bow? Plus, I can envision someone putting the remote in their pocket, then accidentally activating in when they bend, squat or lean the wrong way.

Great way to loose a finger.

 

[jclays]

Because it works for me and that’s what I want to use.

 

[timb]

I feel sick thinking I'm the only dummy that bought the overpriced Lewmar remote .and I haven't even installed the windlass yet. I'm usually the cheap one here.

 

[jclays]

I feel sick thinking I'm the only dummy that bought the overpriced Lewmar remote .and I haven't even installed the windlass yet. I'm usually the cheap one here.

I almost did the same until I made my post for info.
I’m sure the Lewmar is a much better quality product.

 

[jclays]

Success!!!
I purchased a new remote set thru Amazon. Took a better look inside the Lewmar control box. I saw 2 spade connectors from the relay with a single wire each that connected to the deck mounted windlass up and down buttons. I installed spade adaptors that allowed 2 connections out of one spade. I reconnected the original windlass wires to verify everything still worked. I then attached the yellow and white wires from the remote controller receiver to the extra spade positions. The red wire to the battery source and the black wire to the battery negative. Turned on the remote, operated the buttons and it all works.
I had previously attached the yellow and white wires directly to the solenoid posts. I believe the start up amps where too large and fried the receiver.

 

[Shrew]

Because it works for me and that’s what I want to use.

Everyone is entitled to their opinion. While there's no wrong answer, that doesn't really address the question.

"When would you ever need to drop or raise the anchor in a location OTHER than the helm or the bow?"

 

[jclays]

Everyone is entitled to their opinion. While there's no wrong answer, that doesn't really address the question.

"When would you ever need to drop or raise the anchor in a location OTHER than the helm or the bow?"

When I'm on the dock feeding my anchor line after inspection. Is one. When I'm traveling alone and I need to be in two places at once while operating the boat and windlass is two. Just a few of dozens

 

[Shrew]

When I'm on the dock feeding my anchor line after inspection. Is one. When I'm traveling alone and I need to be in two places at once while operating the boat and windlass is two. Just a few of dozens

Where would you need to be if you're at the dock and feeding your anchor line other than the windlass?

IF you're operating the boat and the windlass at the same time. Where would you be if not at the helm or the windlass?

Again, no wrong answer, just curious. I literally cannot visualize such a situation. I anchor alone all the time.

 

[jclays]

Dont worry Ill be fine.