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Old 02-13-2020, 01:09 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by OldDan1943 View Post
I have a 34AT with 2 30 amp cables. One is dedicated to the 2 A/Cs.
That leaves me with a 30 amp service to support the rest of the boat.
I have a an electric 3 burner stove with electric oven, HW heater, microwave and the usual galley 120vt outlets. Start cooking and plug in toaster.... the 30 amp breaker trips. The amp meter is in the pilot house.... I also have a 1800 amp inverter... I can put the microwave OR the 120 vt galley outlets on the inverter. A little cumbersome but, it works.
Load shedding is the only way to make this system work well for me.
I actually had a another amp meter installed in the galley area so I can easily keep an eye on the amp usage and shed loads via the electric stove or shutting down the electric water heater. This has worked out well for me.
Trying to run the washer/drier .... Not going to happen until there is very little power usage.
Another point for concern, the coffee pot uses lots of amperage too so, timing is important.
Thanks for your comments, Old Dan.
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Old 02-13-2020, 01:10 PM   #42
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The 34T transfer switch is outlined in the picture below.

It allows the current coming in on shore power line 1 to feed both sides of the panel.

I'd also suggest getting a copy of https://www.amazon.com/Boatowners-Me..._df_0071790330 to understand things better.
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Old 02-13-2020, 01:15 PM   #43
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Thanks everyone. As usual, this has been most informative. I called (yes - on the land-line) the harbour manager to inquire regarding the possibility of another 30 amp outlet being installed. He had said in his emails that only one was possible since that was all he could guarantee. However, on the phone, he said once the docks are re-installed in early May, he would address the issue with the town electrician. If there's sufficient power at the docks, he said he'd have it installed. Hallelujah!
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Old 02-13-2020, 01:29 PM   #44
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The 34T transfer switch is outlined in the picture below.

It allows the current coming in on shore power line 1 to feed both sides of the panel.

I'd also suggest getting a copy of https://www.amazon.com/Boatowners-Me..._df_0071790330 to understand things better.
Thanks, Danderer. That appears to be exactly like my own. I seem to recall that it's a horizontal slide that moves from generator to transfer. It's been my understanding (based on the previous owner's brief explanation) that its normally in the "transfer" position, unless I'm operating the generator. Is this correct?


If this is right, then may I assume that since power can be shifted, or transferred from one side to the other circuit, then the side that needs, say, 35 amps, can draw the additional 5 amps from the other side? Or am I way off base here?


The book you recommend looks good. Is it current? Do you happen to know when it was published? I ask because before buying a boat a few years ago (my previous Monk 42), I purchased David Pascoe's "Mid Size Power Boats". Though it was truly educational, I found that since it had been published many years ago, it failed to include newer technology and vessels.
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Old 02-13-2020, 01:31 PM   #45
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By the way, Danderer, does this mean that I don't really need to use the Y-splitter so that power is fed to both transom recepticles?
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Old 02-13-2020, 02:00 PM   #46
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Ross:

I sold my 34T about ten years ago. But if you post a picture of your AC panel, mostly the top part, I can see if it is the same with a combiner switch and help you figure out how to use it. Mine was a 2006 and so was yours. I would be shocked if they weren't the same, but boat builders have done stranger things.


Also mine had two 30A shore power inlets on the port side inside the transom, with a 30A breaker for each inlet. As far as I can recall, one of the shore power sources would combine with the other panel, leaving the other shore power inlet disconnected. You couldn't do the reverse.


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Old 02-13-2020, 02:31 PM   #47
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Ross:

I sold my 34T about ten years ago. But if you post a picture of your AC panel, mostly the top part, I can see if it is the same with a combiner switch and help you figure out how to use it. Mine was a 2006 and so was yours. I would be shocked if they weren't the same, but boat builders have done stranger things.


Also mine had two 30A shore power inlets on the port side inside the transom, with a 30A breaker for each inlet. As far as I can recall, one of the shore power sources would combine with the other panel, leaving the other shore power inlet disconnected. You couldn't do the reverse.


David
Your description of the shore power receptacles and breakers on the port inside transom is identical to mine. Unfortunately, I don't have a photo of the AC panel, and it's in heated storage about 3 hours away. I'll snap one when I'm next up there to post here. Thanks again for your help.
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Old 02-13-2020, 04:25 PM   #48
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I think DAnderer & DMarchand have pointed you in the right direction.
I'll attach what I have re pics of the panel & switches.
To operate on one cord you need to connect it to Shore power inlet #1 turn on #1 breaker, turn off Breaker for #2, slide the transfer breaker cover to the right covering breaker #2 and then turn on the Transfer breaker - you should now have power to both sides of the panel. You need to manually manage loads with the individual circuit breakers. By running individual items and monitoring Amp draw with the A meter you can get a feel for what you can run together. Best to shoot for around 24-25 A for long term running.
To run on the Gen turn off #1 breaker and slide the Gen cover to the left then turn the Gen breaker on. You can power both sides by using the transfer function above.
Best to start the gen w/o a load, let it run for a couple mins and then add the loads. Best to run Gen for 30 - 60 min minimum under load to heat & dry out the gen coils. If charging battys I try to do it while cooking, heating water and/ or heating / cooling with A/Cs / heat pumps to have sufficient load.
Best practice for shut down is to remove the loads and let the gen run for 5 -10 mins to stabilize temps before shutting down.
Any questions on above let us know.
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Old 02-13-2020, 04:39 PM   #49
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Yep, Don's pic, attached diagram and description of how to use the transfer switch is exactly what I had on my 2006 34T. A little different because I had no generator.

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Old 02-13-2020, 05:07 PM   #50
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Ross
I think DAnderer & DMarchand have pointed you in the right direction.
I'll attach what I have re pics of the panel & switches.
To operate on one cord you need to connect it to Shore power inlet #1 turn on #1 breaker, turn off Breaker for #2, slide the transfer breaker cover to the right covering breaker #2 and then turn on the Transfer breaker - you should now have power to both sides of the panel. You need to manually manage loads with the individual circuit breakers. By running individual items and monitoring Amp draw with the A meter you can get a feel for what you can run together. Best to shoot for around 24-25 A for long term running.
To run on the Gen turn off #1 breaker and slide the Gen cover to the left then turn the Gen breaker on. You can power both sides by using the transfer function above.
Best to start the gen w/o a load, let it run for a couple mins and then add the loads. Best to run Gen for 30 - 60 min minimum under load to heat & dry out the gen coils. If charging battys I try to do it while cooking, heating water and/ or heating / cooling with A/Cs / heat pumps to have sufficient load.
Best practice for shut down is to remove the loads and let the gen run for 5 -10 mins to stabilize temps before shutting down.
Any questions on above let us know.
As usual, Dave, great understandable detail. How can I go wrong? When I start the gen in the spring (as I must to check once again for water in the oil - changed twice in fall) to dry it out, I'll follow the advice ya'll have so graciously provided to this relative novice. Thanks again.
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Old 02-13-2020, 05:07 PM   #51
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Yep, Don's pic, attached diagram and description of how to use the transfer switch is exactly what I had on my 2006 34T. A little different because I had no generator.

David
Got it. Thanks again, David.
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Old 02-13-2020, 06:19 PM   #52
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Yep, Don's pic, attached diagram and description of how to use the transfer switch is exactly what I had on my 2006 34T. A little different because I had no generator.

David
NO generator? Now did you run your heat/AC ????
I am assuming you had a gas stove. What size inverter did you have?
You only had hot water if the main engine was running?
You had an over size engine generator?

What did do with all the extra space in the engine room?
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Old 02-13-2020, 07:35 PM   #53
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NO generator? Now did you run your heat/AC ????
I am assuming you had a gas stove. What size inverter did you have?
You only had hot water if the main engine was running?
You had an over size engine generator?

What did do with all the extra space in the engine room?
I realize that the above comments are mostly tongue in cheek.

But we lived in SoCal and used the boat from San Diego to Catalina Island. Never did we feel like we needed A/C. FWIW we lived about 1/2 mile inland from Balboa Island and turned on the air conditioner at home maybe twice each year for a few days each time. We were never on the boat during those warm Santa Ana hot winds.

Interestingly we needed heat more than cooling where we cruised. So I hooked up a Wave radiant heater to the propane system and that kept us nicely warm in the late evening and early morning.

The stove was propane, with the LPG tank on the fly bridge in a locker. We were usually out for two nights at a time and when we got to our anchorage, often Catalina, the engine had heated up the water just fine. And it would last for at least two nights of showers.

FWIW Mainship didn't plumb the engine into the hot water heater, but a couple of fittings and heater hose got it all hooked up fine. Mainship obviously thinks like you- a generator is essential.

No inverter and only the OEM engine alternator. Never used much DC, maybe a few LED lights, a cell phone charger and a half hour or so of TV for the nightly news is all, although sometimes we watched a movie on DVD. We did have a nice house bank with four golf cart batteries.

And yes the engine room in a 34T with the single Yanmar had lots of room.

It was a pretty minimalist setup but interestingly the purchaser who kept the boat in Newport Harbor immediately put in A/C. Don't know about a generator though.

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Old 02-13-2020, 07:51 PM   #54
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I realize that the above comments are mostly tongue in cheek.

But we lived in SoCal and used the boat from San Diego to Catalina Island. Never did we feel like we needed A/C. FWIW we lived about 1/2 mile inland from Balboa Island and turned on the air conditioner at home maybe twice each year for a few days each time. We were never on the boat during those warm Santa Ana hot winds.

Interestingly we needed heat more than cooling where we cruised. So I hooked up a Wave radiant heater to the propane system and that kept us nicely warm in the late evening and early morning.

The stove was propane, with the LPG tank on the fly bridge in a locker. We were usually out for two nights at a time and when we got to our anchorage, often Catalina, the engine had heated up the water just fine. And it would last for at least two nights of showers.

FWIW Mainship didn't plumb the engine into the hot water heater, but a couple of fittings and heater hose got it all hooked up fine. Mainship obviously thinks like you- a generator is essential.

No inverter and only the OEM engine alternator. Never used much DC, maybe a few LED lights, a cell phone charger and a half hour or so of TV for the nightly news is all, although sometimes we watched a movie on DVD. We did have a nice house bank with four golf cart batteries.

And yes the engine room in a 34T with the single Yanmar had lots of room.

It was a pretty minimalist setup but interestingly the purchaser who kept the boat in Newport Harbor immediately put in A/C. Don't know about a generator though.

David
The 4 golf cart batteries gave you how many amps??
You live in a unique environment and dont need an A/C. LOL
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Old 02-17-2020, 03:36 PM   #55
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My boat is set up with 2 - 30 amp outlets as well. My panel is divided in half and clearly labeled, with the top half panel running off of 30 amp outlet #1 and the bottom half panel running off of 30 amp outlet #2. I pick what is the most important panel to run (usually just my galley, house lights and forward stateroom AC.
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Old 02-18-2020, 09:51 PM   #56
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Get another 30 amp cord and plug into another leg, I had a boat like this in the nineties and if I couldn’t do that I would run on one cord
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Old 02-19-2020, 07:42 AM   #57
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IF you are going to install a second 30a socket , with a bit of thought you can install switches that could power the socket to create a "buddy plug" to feed power to another boat in a raft up.
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Old 02-19-2020, 12:47 PM   #58
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Hello Everyone:
I've reviewed countless posts on this general subject, but have yet to find an answer to my quandary. Maybe my challenge is too simple?


My 2006 Mainship 34T features twin 30 amp power cords for a total of 60 amps with corresponding input receptacles on the transom. And when I have double 30 amp shore power outlets, I've obviously no problems. But when I'm faced with a town harbour that refuses to install another outlet, what can I do to properly power my boat?


I have a "splitter", along with a few other adapters (the purpose of which I have no knowledge), but does this not just divide the 30 amps into 2 x 15 amp circuits? And will this be sufficient to power all the heavy draw equipment aboard, including 2 C/A units, a 2-burner electric stove, water heater and assorted other pumps, chargers and inverters? Would the double 15 amp sources combine to provide the power on demand?



Are there any other solutions or ideas? Thanks.
On the Mainship AC Panel you should have a switch when you plug into Outlet one (the top one) and Then on the AC Panel AC Load group 1 The Cover should be in the down position allowing you to throw the main Breaker then on AC Group 2 Have the shield raised allowing the lower breaker to be turned on this will distribute 30 amps to both panels.
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