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Old 01-18-2020, 12:00 PM   #1
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Ideal windlass CWM upgrade

Currently my windlass is up only, in the near future I will be adding another solenoid so it will be up and down and will replace the present plunger style foot switch with two matching micro switch style for up and down. Further down the road I will add a wireless remote. The windlass and bow thruster use the same battery which is located in the bow in close proximity to both the windlass and thruster.

This is an older Ideal CWM windlass which has the two terminals so adding a reversing function is not that difficult, I would like to see some real world pictures of the wiring setup some of you have for either the exact windlass or something similar.

I have seen some that have the solenoid (s) bolted to a wood block, some with studs glassed to the hull and some with the solenoid (s) housed in an electrical plastic box. Any pictures or words of wisdom out there? Here is a diagram of mine.
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Old 01-18-2020, 01:33 PM   #2
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I an up-only CWM on my last boat. I converted it tobreversing.

Mine original motor had one terminal and the ground, so I had to get a new reversing motor, a WMS W-7015 from Western Motor Service (https://www.wms1.com/). Then I had to get the mounting screw holes on it drilled and tapped so I could rotate it's front plate to mount it at an orientation such that the posts didnt interfere withbthe cowl/cover.

Ibgot the control box/solenoid from West Marine (
WM Model # 289415, Intra Model# SPA-10700W) and mounted in the chain locker at the very top of the bulkhead ("back wall" shared with forward stateroom).

I connect the old "up pedal" as a back up, but added a cheap wireless controller and remote from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C0SQE0K..._j00iEb4N6EC7W). It basically had one pair of wires that connected like an up foot pedal, anotjer like a down pedal, and a 3rd for power. I also mounted it on the bulkhead.

I put one controllet on a coil wrist band and the other on a string necklaces and left one by the lower helm. Ibwore one for use from flybridge and the other one was for someone going forward to the bow.

The wireless units seemed cheap, but worked flawlessly for a year of my light use (mostly testing as I like to moor, not anchor). I dont know if the next owner kept them -- he got a new windlass, anchor, chain, etc.

I looked and I have no pictures of the installation. I guess it was just too straight-forward. There really were not gotchas or tricks ir anything. Sorry!
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Old 01-18-2020, 03:07 PM   #3
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My Galley Maid vertical windlass is wired similarly to the diagram you posted. I don't have pictures of the wiring install, but I will take them later this weekend if you'd like. My solenoids are mounted in a metal electrical box on the back wall of the chain locker. The solenoids are activated by up and down foot switches on the foredeck; always-hot, 3-position switches, (ON) - OFF - (ON), at each helm, and a wired remote that can be plugged into an outdoor receptacle mounted near the windlass platform. I added a switch at the lower helm to remove power from the foot switches so that guests and I would not accidentally activate - I startled myself several times.

Even though my windlass is wired for up and down operation, I've been told that the motor is probably only made to operate in the up direction with down reserved for minor adjustments, like deploying the bridle or snubber. I'm told a "down thrust bearing" can be added to my motor to enable full down operation, but I'll probably never do that. You should make sure that your motor is designed to go both ways. It may work great for a while, but use in a way other than designed may cause internal damage that will eventually kill that great operation.

Greg.
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Old 01-18-2020, 08:38 PM   #4
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Greg I would appreciate a couple pics when you get a chance. I am lucky, the motor is set up for reverse. I am leaning towards putting the solenoids in a plastic electrical box.
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Old 01-18-2020, 11:26 PM   #5
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Make sure the terminal box is vented for heat and moisture. Use dielectric grease too.
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Old 01-18-2020, 11:48 PM   #6
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Hi Eddie,

Unfortunately, the Ideal windlass was on my old boat, sold about 1.5 years ago, so I can't go take more pictures. This is especially true since the new owner took out this windlass and installed a bigger one, thicker chain, a bigger anchor, and reinforced the bow pulpit! (That Ideal windlass is now on one of his friend's boats for a stern anchor).

I saved some technical information from Ideal, the documentation from all of the parts, and some pictures of the individual parts, as well as some personal notes from the project to a Google Drive for posterity.

Take a look at this top-level directory, and the sub-directories:
-- https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...44?usp=sharing

The only other picture I can find is one the salesperson took for the listing, which just shows the windlass from the outside:
-- https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yLT...ew?usp=sharing

Sorry I don't have more, but maybe this helps a bit.

Cheers!
-Greg
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Old 01-19-2020, 12:05 AM   #7
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Hi Eddie,

If it helps, I didn't do any magic to mount the solenoid. It had two tabs for screws, one on each side. I basically just screwed it to the bulkhead near the top.

Specifically, as I remember it, I glued and screwed a thin strip of wood to the bulkhead a couple of inches from the top, directly above the door from the v-berth into the chain locker on the chain locker side. I think I used PL Polyurethane glue.

Then, I screwed the solenoid box to this via the tabs on the solenoid box. Specifically, I put some double-sided outdoor grade tape onto the back of the solenoid, stuck it where I wanted it, and I then had both hands free to screw it in for real via the screw tabs on the solenoid box.

I positioned the solenoid so that the "box" of the solenoid was backed by the wood I added -- but the terminals were completely above it. I made the strip of wood wider than the solenoid box, so the screws wouldn't interfere with each other. I also made sure none of the screws were close to long enough to go through the wood and too close to the finished V-berth side.

One goal was to mount the solenoid as high up as possible to be out of the way -- but with some headroom to be able to run the wiring too it without needing tight bends.

The other goal was to mount the solenoid box so that it was wholly on top of the wood I added so it didn't wiggle-- but also high enough that the terminals were above the wood strip. This way, I had room behind the terminals for my fingers, a small wrench, etc. The wood I added was basically acting a stand-off for the solenoid box to give me more working room behind the terminals to make things easier for me.

I hope this helps.

Cheers!
-Greg
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Old 01-19-2020, 04:06 AM   #8
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My wiring is the same.
My up failed, so I attached the down to the up and ran it that way till I ould get a new solenoid. Worked fine a few more years, then, the up failed again. Again, switched the down to the up and worked fine till I got a replacement.
My solenoids are from NAPA, cheap.
25 years so far.
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Old 01-19-2020, 11:35 AM   #9
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If you have a three-wire motor as you apparently do, GKESDEN's solution will work. Just follow the wiring diagram. The IMTRA device can be had at Defender for $121.



https://www.defender.com/product3.js...0057&id=188155

If you had a four-wire motor as I have on my Galley Maid, you would need a different control box (IMTRA Part. No. SPA-20697). I recently, did this repair and it went quite well. Galley Maid wanted $834 for a combination circuit breaker/solenoid assembly. I did have purchase and install a new Blue Seas 150 amp circuit breaker.


Quote:
Originally Posted by gkesden View Post
I an up-only CWM on my last boat. I converted it tobreversing.

Mine original motor had one terminal and the ground, so I had to get a new reversing motor, a WMS W-7015 from Western Motor Service (https://www.wms1.com/). Then I had to get the mounting screw holes on it drilled and tapped so I could rotate it's front plate to mount it at an orientation such that the posts didnt interfere withbthe cowl/cover.

Ibgot the control box/solenoid from West Marine (
WM Model # 289415, Intra Model# SPA-10700W) and mounted in the chain locker at the very top of the bulkhead ("back wall" shared with forward stateroom).

I connect the old "up pedal" as a back up, but added a cheap wireless controller and remote from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C0SQE0K..._j00iEb4N6EC7W). It basically had one pair of wires that connected like an up foot pedal, anotjer like a down pedal, and a 3rd for power. I also mounted it on the bulkhead.

I put one controllet on a coil wrist band and the other on a string necklaces and left one by the lower helm. Ibwore one for use from flybridge and the other one was for someone going forward to the bow.

The wireless units seemed cheap, but worked flawlessly for a year of my light use (mostly testing as I like to moor, not anchor). I dont know if the next owner kept them -- he got a new windlass, anchor, chain, etc.

I looked and I have no pictures of the installation. I guess it was just too straight-forward. There really were not gotchas or tricks ir anything. Sorry!
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Old 01-19-2020, 01:21 PM   #10
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I did this mod to my Ideal on my GB. Easy if there is a third terminal. Just don’t step on both switches at the same time or the lights go out. Put the second switch somewhere less easy to reach, that solves that problem.
I would also take this time to dismantle and clean your Ideal, trim the commutator and check the brushes, grease bearings etc. If fact I would replace both solenoids and keep the good one for a spare.
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Old 01-19-2020, 01:55 PM   #11
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Here's the pic you're probably most interested in.


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The Red hot wire from the engine room enters at the bottom left side of the box, and the Yellow continues up the right side of the box and then to the motor. Inside the box on the left side, the hot wire connects to the 150-amp breaker, and a bar distributes the power from the breaker to the top of the 2 solenoids. The positive solenoid Red output wire exits from a bar at the bottom right of the two solenoids to the positive terminal on the windlass motor. The two black wires at the bottom of the solenoids go to the appropriate poles on the motor. The smaller gauge wires are from the switches. None of them are marked, and I haven't traced them yet to determine which are which. I'll add that to the To Do list.

Here's the wiring at the motor end:
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The wires in the left foreground are from the foot switches, and the cable dropping from the deck in the right foreground is from the wired remote connector. The remote wiring has 3 wires that connect to the nearby foot switches rather than travel another 3 feet to the electrical box. Disregard the man behind the cables.

I have other pics in case you had questions, but these are the most relevant.

Greg.
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Old 01-19-2020, 06:38 PM   #12
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The only criticism I would voice is that the breaker must be quickly accessible for when the solenoid points inevitably fuse and the windlass runs away. Its a scramble or a lot of shouting to open the breaker when the “in” side runs away and the anchor has a bead on your bow and the anchor chocks. Panic!

I forgot to mention that the power cables must be large - use the Blue Sea wire tables and remember that the distance is from the battery to the windlass and back again. Use one size larger than what they recommend, it will help the life of the motor.
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Old 01-19-2020, 07:45 PM   #13
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Great information and much appreciated, I considered the dual defender solenoids but I am going with separate solenoids for up and down. I have several reasons for this, probably more of a personal choice. I will purchase three solenoids, one for up, one for down and one for a spare. Down the road I will have a wireless remote, for the present, I will also install a plug for a wired remote. All the pictures are a big help.
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Old 01-20-2020, 08:02 AM   #14
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"My solenoids are from NAPA, cheap.
25 years so far."




The auto stores are easy to get to , but their solenoids do not have silvered contacts . The marine units do, so more amps get to the motor.



At $13.00 there a bargain!







My solenoids are from NAPA, cheap.
25 years so far.


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Old 01-20-2020, 03:29 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FF View Post
"My solenoids are from NAPA, cheap.
25 years so far."




The auto stores are easy to get to , but their solenoids do not have silvered contacts . The marine units do, so more amps get to the motor.



At $13.00 there a bargain!







My solenoids are from NAPA, cheap.
25 years so far.


NEW 12V 150A CONTINUOUS DUTY SOLENOID RELAY FOR GOLF CARTS 300A IN RUSH 1114208



by GOLF CARTS UNIVERSE

3.5 out of 5 stars 105 ratings

| 21 answered questions


Price: $13.19 FREE Shipping on orders over $25.00 shipped by Amazon or get Fast, Free Shipping with Amazon Prime & FREE Returns
You and I are on the same page, I am going to use some nickel plated golf cart solenoids, about 20 bucks each, we love tooling around in a golf cart, have some experience upgrading and doing maintenance on Yamaha and EZ Go carts, quality of the parts for Golf Carts I have purchased off Amazon have been reliable and of good quality.
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