Circuit breaker question

[spencers]

Hi, I have a 2006 Mainship with what I think are Carling Technologies breakers. The problem I have is that I cannot turn any of them off. One that is turned off I cannot turn back on.
They seem to be stuck.
These breakers have a small slot at the side that maybe has to have a small screwdriver or something pushed in to release the rocker.
I cannot find anything on Carling's website the same.
I think I have attached a photo.

 

[Lou_tribal]

To be honest the visible corrosion there would worry me...

L

 

[Olebird]

Take a peek inside the box - don't think you're gonna like what you find!

I'll bet you have a water leak some where close.

A little CorrosionX might free them up - but should not be considered a fix.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

If the breakers can not be flipped on or off you will need to REPLACE them. Concur you have a corrosion issue, water leak?

 

[STB]

Hold up, hold up, hold up...

Those look to my eye like very standard Carling C-Series breakers, just in the horizontal rocker + push-to-reset + RockerGuard configuration, which is somewhat rare except for Sea Rays and some Mainships.

They are intended to stay always-on, except when tripped. They are not intended to be flipped like switches -- they put switches down stream.

There is a little slot by the off side. Something needs to be put in there to flip or reset them. The pointy end of a thickish plastic zip tie works great and can't do damage.

If you want to look at their specs, look later on in the data sheet for the CO1-B0 series (COh1-BZero):
--
https://www.carlingtech.com/sites/default/files/documents/Carling-HM-CB-C-Series_0.pdf

Some words in English are here:
-- https://www.carlingtech.com/circuit-actuator-type#5

...But, yes, see whats up w.r.t. if there is any corrosion. Corrosion on electrical = fire hazard.
Corrosion within main panel = lots of fire hazard.

 

[psneeld]

Hold up, hold up, hold up...

Those look to my eye like very standard Carling C-Series breakers, just in the horizontal rocker + push-to-reset + RockerGuard configuration, which is somewhat rare except for Sea Rays and some Mainships.

They are intended to stay always-on, except when tripped. They are not intended to be flipped like switches -- they put switches down stream.

There is a little slot by the off side. Something needs to be put in there to flip or reset them. The pointy end of a thickish plastic zip tie works great and can't do damage.

If you want to look at their specs, look later on in the data sheet for the CO1-B0 series (COh1-BZero):
--
https://www.carlingtech.com/sites/default/files/documents/Carling-HM-CB-C-Series_0.pdf

Some words in English are here:
-- https://www.carlingtech.com/circuit-actuator-type#5

...But, yes, see whats up w.r.t. if there is any corrosion. Corrosion on electrical = fire hazard.
Corrosion within main panel = lots of fire hazard.

Agree....very common on older Sea Rays....worked at a Ray dealership.


Yes on the small screwdriver or special tool to trip them.

 

[Bacchus]

Agree
Same on our 2008 MS 34HT.
I do turn some off w a small flat screw driver but not frequently.
Some of those circuits are constant on, bypass the battery 1-2-all-off Sw and the CB is the only way to shut off. (Ex: CO detectors, bilge pumps )

 

[psneeld]

Agree
Same on our 2008 MS 34HT.
I do turn some off w a small flat screw driver but not frequently.
Some of those circuits are constant on, bypass the battery 1-2-all-off Sw and the CB is the only way to shut off. (Ex: CO detectors, bilge pumps )

That to keep the boaters with little experience and too much dock talk from turning off the wrong things every time they go home.

 

[Shrew]

That to keep the boaters with little experience and too much dock talk from turning off the wrong things every time they go home.

 

[psneeld]

Not sure what you mean?

 

[Bacchus]

That to keep the boaters with little experience and too much dock talk from turning off the wrong things every time they go home.

In my case I had an issue leaving the boat to be hauled w/o having shore power hooked up. Batts were down/dead at least partially due to CO detectors on. I moved then to the switched side of the batty Sw. My rationale is that if I turned off by Batty's nobody is aboard and I don't need CO protection. Not sure if ABYC addresses this but I'm OK with it and understand it.

 

[psneeld]

In my case I had an issue leaving the boat to be hauled w/o having shore power hooked up. Batts were down/dead at least partially due to CO detectors on. I moved then to the switched side of the batty Sw. My rationale is that if I turned off by Batty's nobody is aboard and I don't need CO protection. Not sure if ABYC addresses this but I'm OK with it and understand it.

Sorry if you thought I meant you...wasn't pointing fingers at anyone in particular...just the dozens and dozens of completely new boaters that I had to train on their new Sea Rays over 3 years.

 

[spencers]

Thanks guys, especially Bacchus for all your comments.
Yes, is certainly some corrosion but not so bad on the other side of that panel but I will definitely be renewing the breakers of course.
This panel is factory positioned, exceptionally stupidly, where the stairs to the flybridge opens up for access to the engine room, so is very poorly isolated from rainwater, seaspray and any water running down the stairs.

 

[Comodave]

Thanks guys, especially Bacchus for all your comments.
Yes, is certainly some corrosion but not so bad on the other side of that panel but I will definitely be renewing the breakers of course.
This panel is factory positioned, exceptionally stupidly, where the stairs to the flybridge opens up for access to the engine room, so is very poorly isolated from rainwater, seaspray and any water running down the stairs.

Yes, but it was easy for manufacturing...

 

[Olebird]

Hold up, hold up, hold up...

Those look to my eye like very standard Carling C-Series breakers, just in the horizontal rocker + push-to-reset + RockerGuard configuration, which is somewhat rare except for Sea Rays and some Mainships.

They are intended to stay always-on, except when tripped. They are not intended to be flipped like switches -- they put switches down stream.

There is a little slot by the off side. Something needs to be put in there to flip or reset them. The pointy end of a thickish plastic zip tie works great and can't do damage.

If you want to look at their specs, look later on in the data sheet for the CO1-B0 series (COh1-BZero):
--
https://www.carlingtech.com/sites/default/files/documents/Carling-HM-CB-C-Series_0.pdf

Some words in English are here:
-- https://www.carlingtech.com/circuit-actuator-type#5

...But, yes, see whats up w.r.t. if there is any corrosion. Corrosion on electrical = fire hazard.
Corrosion within main panel = lots of fire hazard.

Great post Mr. G. I learn't something new - where are the breakers for CO and bilge pumps likely located. The mainship manual is really bad. The DC subpanel on my Pilot 30 is located in a nearly impossible location.