Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 02-19-2020, 09:16 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
City: Russell NZ
Country: Russell NZ
Vessel Name: MV Unique
Vessel Model: Salthouse Coastal 35
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 126
Battery cable extension

Hi Guys I may well be on a hiding to nowhere with this one. I have just had to install a new Maxwell Windlass and as my luck has it my Positive Battery Lead (AWG4 I think) is 200mm too short. It is not as simple as pulling the existing cable and replacing with a new as the builders in their wisdom glassed the cable in from just above the waterline through to the engine room. My question(s) are how can I join maybe 180mm of cable to the existing and then to the reversing solenoid without soldering ie a crimp jointing fitting


Give the short run to the reversing solenoid could I use a slightly lesser cable to ease the job.
Look forward to comments
__________________
Advertisement

Phil23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2020, 09:41 PM   #2
Guru
 
C lectric's Avatar
 
City: Gibsons, B.C.
Country: Canada
Vessel Name: Island Pride
Vessel Model: xxxx
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,755
Hmmm. THis was just discussed recently.

Use Butt connectors, GOOD quality industrial electrical ones from someone like Thomas and Betts or Burndy or FTZ.

There are differences. Lots of light weight thin walled units which for this should not be used.

DO NOT go down a wire size. YOu will need to get a GOOD crimper or the crimp will be questionable.

A good chandlery or often electrical houses will rent one to you.

Use a couple of layers or adhesive lined heat shrink tubing to cover the joint and then support the joint to eliminate vibration.

Are you positive that the old wiring will handle the new windlass current load? Be positive or the new unit may operate poorly under load and can, if bad enough, damage itself. Your new windlass should also have a wire size vs a TOTAL length of circuit chart to guide you. Find it and read it and be sure.
__________________

C lectric is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2020, 10:25 PM   #3
Guru
 
Comodave's Avatar
 
City: Au Gres, MI
Country: US
Vessel Name: Never Say Never
Vessel Model: President 41 DC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 6,956
I would not try soldering it. Either use a good butt connector or 2 ring terminals and a power post.
__________________
Boat Nut:
If you are one there is no explanation necessary.
If you arenít one, there is no explanation possible.
Comodave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2020, 08:44 AM   #4
Guru
 
Pete Meisinger's Avatar
 
City: Oconto, WI
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Best Alternative
Vessel Model: 36 Albin Aft Cabin
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 770
Is there no way you can have a dedicated battery nearer the windlass? Mine is in a box directly below the windlass. The cable is about a foot long, no power drop.

pete
Pete Meisinger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2020, 01:10 PM   #5
Guru
 
mvweebles's Avatar
 
City: Saint Petersburg
Country: United States
Vessel Name: Weebles
Vessel Model: 1970 Willard 36 Trawler
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 677
Quote:
Originally Posted by Comodave View Post
I would not try soldering it. Either use a good butt connector or 2 ring terminals and a power post.
Here is a butt connector for 4AUG from Grainger. But it sounds like access to press-fit will be difficult. Comodave's idea of a post probably makes the most sense.

https://www.grainger.com/product/2FD...!g!88855682517!
__________________
M/V Weebles
1970 Willard 36 Sedan Trawler
Current Location: Ensenada MX
mvweebles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2020, 01:57 PM   #6
Guru
 
caltexflanc's Avatar
 
City: North Carolina for now
Country: USA
Vessel Name: Small Incentive
Vessel Model: Boston Whaler 130 Sport
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 5,614
Assuming there is a ring connector on the end of the existing cable, I agree with using a power post. Also assuming this is all taking place in an anchor locker, it will be easier to have a cable of the same size fabricated to go to the windlass contacts as well. Just make sure the post is contained in a box of some sort and sprayed with protectant like Boeshield.
__________________
George

"There's the Right Way, the Wrong Way, and what some guy says he's gotten away with"
caltexflanc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-20-2020, 03:09 PM   #7
Guru
 
mvweebles's Avatar
 
City: Saint Petersburg
Country: United States
Vessel Name: Weebles
Vessel Model: 1970 Willard 36 Trawler
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 677
Another option - looks like the clamp-bolts are hex-head so you can get some ooomph on them. Maybe stuff some dielectric grease in prior to adding cable and bolting down? You may want to put a digital thermometer on whatever solution you use and see how it goes.

https://www.grainger.com/product/25A...g!461787464874!
__________________
M/V Weebles
1970 Willard 36 Sedan Trawler
Current Location: Ensenada MX
mvweebles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2020, 03:33 PM   #8
Guru
 
C lectric's Avatar
 
City: Gibsons, B.C.
Country: Canada
Vessel Name: Island Pride
Vessel Model: xxxx
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,755
Those should work just fine. Never thought of them. After a year I would cut the heat shrink back and recheck the tightness of the screws. The wire MAY cold flow a hair.

Maybe purchase an extra piece of the heat shrink for both splices and slide them on while doing the initial work.

Eliminates the need for the crimper.
__________________

C lectric is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:30 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012
×