What really is so called "teak oil"?

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Meh. I’m not really sure what is so different between these and other finishes, especially in woodworking land. I mean, whatever product you have always had to take the mfg claims with a grain of salt, read the label to figure out what’s probably in there and then most importantly try it and learn how it works. In that light Teak Oil doesn’t seem much different. I tend to like Tung oil over linseed, so I look for that in the contents.

The bigger problem, is the constant reformulations of products. What used to work, often doesn’t now. Take Behlins short oil varnishes, which are now poly based and absolute murder to get to lay down. You try to learn a mfg and a product, not because you think they walk on water, but because the same label on a different mfg is not the same thing at all.

I’ve used a lot of Daly’s teak oil. It was OEM and color matches perfectly on my boat. I’ve used it as a finish and as a sealer under varnish. Don’t care much what the label says anymore, Because through experience I just know what the product does and how it reacts with other things.

Recently I’ve started learning Waterlox for inside counter surfaces. Lays down very easily, very little sanding and has gone a year in my galley with ease. Just added it to my main head counter. I guess I’m just saying no matter what, you have to learn each product, one by one. What I know about Behlins varnish helps little with Waterlox, or Epifanes, or Daly’s.

Learn a product, use it. That’s all there is.

Look at exterior deck oils and stains, hard to find a product that works and even harder one that has not changed formulations every year. Situation normal!

Varnish, Cetol, epoxy, finishing wood isn’t for the meek.
 
After endless hours of reading and indecision, I've decided to take down the cetol and refinish the teak (1979 42' Universal Marine) with varnish. I see the previous post uses teak oil under the varnish. Since this is going to take me some time, would I be advised to for instance take down a focused area, e.g. the three PT window frames, oil and varnish those until done & move onto the next component or take down a component, oil it, then the starboard windows frames, oil those and then when all is done, varnish? I guess my question is would the teak oil protect the teak over the course of say 3-4 months that is will take me to finish? (Afternoons after work, part-time on weekends).
 
If you have not done varnish before, Rebecca
Wittman has a really good step by step book out. Lots of people have different ideas of what works, but Rebecca is a great place to start.

I’d not wait 3 months. I like my surface to be in tip top shape when I start.
 
If you have not done varnish before, Rebecca
Wittman has a really good step by step book out. Lots of people have different ideas of what works, but Rebecca is a great place to start.

I’d not wait 3 months. I like my surface to be in tip top shape when I start.

This is a very good book. Covers how to varnish from A to Z.
 
Thank you! I see she has two books, Brightwork: The Art of Finishing Wood, 1990 and & The Brightwork Companion, 2004. The Companion seems to be more of a slimmed down version blurb reads:
"The Brightwork Companion provides a stripped-to-the-essentials, topicby- topic presentation of procedures, bulleted lists, and summary tables."
So I'm inclined to the earlier book...
 
Thank you! I see she has two books, Brightwork: The Art of Finishing Wood, 1990 and & The Brightwork Companion, 2004. The Companion seems to be more of a slimmed down version blurb reads:
"The Brightwork Companion provides a stripped-to-the-essentials, topicby- topic presentation of procedures, bulleted lists, and summary tables."
So I'm inclined to the earlier book...

Yes, I agree
 
I use Daly's for the dinghy. It does what it claims.

One can actually buy Teak Oil, that is oil from teak, if one looks hard enough.

Can get it here.

http://www.island-teak.com/teak-oil.php

He uses a modified cider press on his sawdust shavings. No kidding.

I bought some quite a while ago with a much lower price when he first started making it.

It's not amazing...
 
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I use Daly's for the dinghy. It does what it claims.

One can actually buy Teak Oil, that is oil from teak, if one looks hard enough.

Can get it here.

http://www.island-teak.com/teak-oil.php

He uses a modified cider press on his sawdust shavings. No kidding.

I bought some quite a while ago with a much lower price when he first started making it.

It's not amazing...
Am I allowed to be very sceptical about composition when I see mentions like "mended with tung oil"?

L
 
I have always mixed my own teak oil. From the beginning it was primarily to have control over the amounts of the various ingredients so as to control penetration, drying, surface buildup of oil, and type of oil.

In the beginning on bare wood I typically use mostly kerosene at 50% w turpentine at about 30%.. No varnish and 20% raw linseed oil. This way I can drive the oil deep into the wood. Kerosene is best suited for that according to R D Culler. Author of “Skiffs and Schooners”. No product off the shelf comes close to this degree of penetration.

Then I evolve most later applications w less kerosene and eliminate it midway in the process or before. I use turpentine instead.

And when I’m about 50% through the process I usually (but not always) switch from raw linseed oil to boiled linseed oil.

I gradually reduce the amount of oil and add (5%?) varnish. Chosen for it’s content of UV inhibitors.

Up to this point I’ve been using a bristle brush. But as I adjust the mixture near the end I use a rag and rub the surface oil around to eliminate build and distribute the oil for better and more even distribution. On the last coat or two I’ll add a bit of Japan Drier according to directions.

And for varnishing I usually use some of the above steps as a primer/base coat.

This method allows one to get a maximum amount of oil into the wood and as deep as possible. Initial steps have the ingredients thats right for initial coating, mid steps and final steps also have the right percentages of this and that to achive the best results.

One can use other ingredients like Tung oil and different driers. Tung oil is slightly better but so slightly that I personally don’t bother to seek it out. And if you don’t like kerosene just use solvent or paint thinner. Consider their drying characteristics.
 
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I have taken Eric's path and Russell's recommendation. Powell's book store in Portland will be sending me the Brightwork book, I've formula-ed a 50-30-20/Kerosens-Turpentine-Linseed oil mix & doing the pilot run on the one window frame that I've sanded down. Great to have so much knowledge/experience at hand! But a quick question to Eric - as far as the process - I assume the linseed oil is the intent and the kerosene/turpentine are the delivery boys. How do I know when I'm done? (the book will probably tell me but I don't get it until next week ;=)
 
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