Wagner RAM Seals N-175-750

[seasons]

Hello, I am looking for the shaft seal - I think item 11 in the Wagner part breakout. I have a pretty good leak where the shaft exists the tube.

PO said he rebuilt the entire unit a couple years ago, and the leak started shortly thereafter.

I don't need the entire rebuild kit for $120 bucks. I rebuilt a similar unit a few years ago, and after buying the kit, I went to a local hydraulic shop and bought a second set of parts. I am hoping someone else knows what the "common" product numbers are, or has a seal.

Thanks!

 

[seasons]

9, 11, 12 WA-119-0017 N175 Cylinder seal kit
includes the following:
U-cup PN WA-11-206013
U-cup PN WA-11-206002 This part.
O-ring PN WA-11-106031

 

[Tomas]

Try

Wagner Hydraulics – Wagner seal kits, Olympic Drives, Sean, 604-207-8444; sean@olympicdrives.com

Good guy, very helpful.

 

[seasons]

Wagner Dealers - entire seal kit
Baltimore Hydraulics - kit $119
Hamilton Jet - $94
Olympic Drives - $45.
OK. I'll buy the kit and do a full rebuild. I've done it before and its about 1-2 hours.

I'll try to buy the same parts locally when in hand, then post the common PNs.

 

[seasons]

Finished the rebuild, yet untested but extra parts!

The rebuild was super easy and took under an hour.

You can NOT buy the parts any cheaper than from Olympic. I sourced locally too, and was at $60 vs thier 45 when done.

"Internal self locking push on locking rings", came with the kit. My Cylinder had none, and I can't see where they go. Any thoughts? They look like concave star lock washers. See photo.

As a note, my unit didn't look like exactly like the drawing as the shaft seals are on the outside of the cast assembly vs inside the tube.

 

[grahamdouglass]

You could give Olympic a call

I took my Wagner upper helm reservoir to Olympic Drives in 2016 and they rebuilt it, they were very helpful. I found them very friendly and and should be able to answer your question. Summer Equipment was the original dealer for Wagner Hydraulics in the 1970's and they ended up being sold to Olympic Drives. I got a manual from them and I posted it here in the library. Search under the word Wagner

 

[seasons]

Thanks. Was that manual for the upper helm or for the ram?

I sent an email with the above drawing to Sean at Olympic. I'll call Monday afternoon if I don't hear from him.

I believe the internal push on retaining ring is only for units as illustrated in the original drawing to retain the seal within the housing. My seal being external is retained by a bushing/washer and an end plate which is then retained by the tie rods.

 

[grahamdouglass]

I only dealt with my upper helm. The manual is in the library on here so you will have to download it and read it. My ram has never had a problem so I never really got into it.

 

[seasons]

Olympic says my ram can't exist!!

Funny, how the world turns.

My Ram doesn't match the drawing, so it doesn't exist. I doubt anyone modified it, so it must be a really early model (1973?), or ...

My seals are outside the tube as shown in the prior drawing, vs inside the tube for most Wagner Rams. There is no groove on the inward side for a seal.

For what it is worth, photos are attached.

If it seals and doesn't leak anytime soon, I won't bother posting in this thread. If it does leak, I'll search for thicker shaft cup seals or add a bushing to tighten up the seal in it space, as it seems to have an extra 1/32 between the seal and the existing washer/faceplate.

Let me know if anyone else has a similar design or has questions.

 

[C lectric]

I have a similar Wagner, but I suspect different unit as the appearance is similar only. My shaft to body seals were simply square O rings.
The piston seals were cup seals.

Of course appropriately sized. I went to my local car parts store where they measure them, order them and a few days later they appeared. This shop was/is involved with all the local race car owners so they have a wide range of experience and are knowledgeable.

THe other option is to go to a hydraulics shop that does repairs. Those seals and O rings should be simple for them. These are standard seals to all kinds of low pressure hydr. equipment.

I would not tolerate leaks since that can also allow air to be sucked in and if the piston seals fail to seal, oil can bypass from one side of the piston to the other side and reduce steering power or cause steering failure.

 

[seasons]

Square O-rings! Imagine that.

I'll keep that in mind if the c-cup shaft seals leak. That's what was in there. And that's what Olympic sent me. But it could be the prior owner rebuild installed the wrong parts (c-cup) because that was sent to him also.

I agree regarding leakage, and so I have rebuilt them. And if needed, I'll rebuild them again. It's incredibly easy.

Fyi, There is an awesome trick on YouTube to get the piston seals on easily.

 

[HRRasmus35]

Hello, I'm searching for those tricks to get seals on easily. Been struggling with the u-cup seal on a Wagner N85. It's been a long time since your post, but perhaps you remember the video or can explain how to get it on? Thank you.

 

[seasons]

install piston seal

Hello, I'm searching for those tricks to get seals on easily. Been struggling with the u-cup seal on a Wagner N85. It's been a long time since your post, but perhaps you remember the video or can explain how to get it on? Thank you.

Oh yes, I found the most wonderful way to easily get them on!

I used a long zip tie, but anything similar should work. You put one side of the seal in the groove, with the tie running through the center and holding both ends in one hand. Captivate the seal in the groove, then pull the zip tie around the circumference of the groove.

Or watch this video:

"easy psiton seal installation method".

 

[HRRasmus35]

Thank you seasons, I can't wait to try!

 

[seasons]

Update

Square O-rings! Imagine that.

I'll keep that in mind if the c-cup shaft seals leak. That's what was in there. And that's what Olympic sent me. But it could be the prior owner rebuild installed the wrong parts (c-cup) because that was sent to him also.

I agree regarding leakage, and so I have rebuilt them. And if needed, I'll rebuild them again. It's incredibly easy.

I used nylon split rings to take up the 1/32" slop in the lip seal on the outer shaft area. That appears to have solved the leak. Likely the cup seals were shifting around in use.

This sort of thing - not this exact one.
https://www.grainger.com/product/45...sf2Vf45SLtcxY9neVYsaAuI1EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds