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Old 04-15-2020, 08:49 AM   #1
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Unhappy Replacing Shaft seal: Can't remove shaft

Discovered my shaft leaking a while back, I've been holding off on repairs for a while and just let it leak in. Put a toll on the bilge pump and is definitely worsening. My problem comes when I attempt to remove the shaft to slide the shaft seal out: I can't seem to remove the nut holding the shaft to the flexible drive coupler (pictures below). Would the thread on this nut be clockwise? The shaft doesn't turn while I'm (attempting) to loosen it...not sure at all.

Picture 1 is a bit blurry but its the only straight on picture of the nut. The nut is at the bottom of picture 2 (the shaft seal is at the top). Picture 3 shows the flexible drive coupler, which the nut is behind

Any help would be appreciated, much thanks
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Old 04-15-2020, 08:57 AM   #2
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Sorry I do not have any advice. The one thing I do know is that this can be a very challenging job. Even for the pros. I do know of cases where shafts have to be cut out. I am having my seals on my boat changed at this very moment(professionally). And getting the shaft out of the coupler is the one X factor that even the pros cannot guess at. Mine luckily came right out(they are basically corrosion free). But it doesn't always work out that way.
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Old 04-15-2020, 09:32 AM   #3
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I gave up on my coupler after seven 8hr. days with dry ice, torches and penetrating oil.

Bought a 7" disc grinder with cut-off wheels ....... 20 minutes .... new coupler.
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Old 04-15-2020, 09:58 AM   #4
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Where is it leaking on that PSS seal? If bellows is in good shape often crud builds up on SS collar and that can be cleaned to stop a leak.
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Old 04-15-2020, 10:19 AM   #5
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Where is it leaking on that PSS seal? If bellows is in good shape often crud builds up on SS collar and that can be cleaned to stop a leak.
This is correct. And you can also slide the "rotor"(that stainless steel thing that rotates on the shaft) forward to further compress the bellows which puts (more)force on the "stator"....the black carbon thingy. I tired all the tricks on mine and they didn't work.
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Old 04-16-2020, 05:57 AM   #6
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Cant tell from the photo but if the seal deal was installed by the PO , perhaps the stock shaft seal bronze is still in place.

If so I would use the cut off tool to remove all of the "new style" seal which can leak at an incredible rate , and use a modern packing .

The new style seals were to stop the hassle of old style packing that needed to leak a bit to cool the unit
Modern packing does not require that.
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Old 04-16-2020, 06:23 AM   #7
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Greetings,
Welcome aboard.
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Old 04-16-2020, 07:41 AM   #8
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This is correct. And you can also slide the "rotor"(that stainless steel thing that rotates on the shaft) forward to further compress the bellows which puts (more)force on the "stator"....the black carbon thingy. I tired all the tricks on mine and they didn't work.
I've tried compressing the bellow already, to some success. It doesn't hold very well and eventually gives way. The SS itself is in good shape (no crud or rust) but it is well past the recommended maintenance/change date. I already have new ones on hand and don't want them getting wasted just sitting around. Thanks for the suggestions anyhow
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Old 04-16-2020, 07:45 AM   #9
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For future referent, anytime you adjust those set screws you’re supposed to replace them. They do flatten if used again...hence your issue of the stator “giving way”.
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Old 04-16-2020, 07:47 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boatpoker View Post
I gave up on my coupler after seven 8hr. days with dry ice, torches and penetrating oil.

Bought a 7" disc grinder with cut-off wheels ....... 20 minutes .... new coupler.
wow...quite the story �� definitely want to keep this as a last-last resort
thanks for sharing anyhow
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Old 04-16-2020, 08:44 AM   #11
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Poker, how did you cut the coupler off without cutting the transmission flange or shaft? Mine will need it someday soon. Thanks all for the pics.
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Old 04-16-2020, 09:06 AM   #12
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Is the difficulty removing the set screws in the nut? Or removing the nut once they've been removed? Or something else? How to approach it will likely vary with the particulars.

Also, this must be DSS season. I'm waiting for the maintenance kit for mine to show up. And, you know what? Reading this thread...I'm going to get down there today and start keeping it wet with creeping oil ahead of the big day!
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Old 04-16-2020, 09:53 AM   #13
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I'd rather take it to the yard, turning the project over to the professional.
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Old 04-16-2020, 10:13 AM   #14
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You can install a spare carbon and end cap with the bellows forward on the shaft, so when it happens again, cut the old one off, slide the new one down and re-install the new one.

I've seen several boats with spinning spares (taped up) on the shaft.
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Old 04-16-2020, 11:53 AM   #15
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^^ I'd need to see that done on a PYI. On a Tides lip seal type, that is possible, but I'm not seeing it on a PYI. The carbon has to be between the SS collar and the bellows, to change the carbon or bellows the SS collar had to come off, now it is completely apart anyway.
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Old 04-16-2020, 01:54 PM   #16
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IF I recall correctly, the carbon rings of my dripless shaft come in halves and screwed together. When I went dripless, I bought 3 carbons and had 2 of them installed as spares. If I correct, it is a matter of removing the defective shaft seal, remove one of the spares reassemble in the proper place. If I am not correct, at lease they are on the safe instead of 'hiding some place on the boat'.
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Old 04-17-2020, 08:29 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gkesden View Post
Is the difficulty removing the set screws in the nut? Or removing the nut once they've been removed? Or something else? How to approach it will likely vary with the particulars.

Also, this must be DSS season. I'm waiting for the maintenance kit for mine to show up. And, you know what? Reading this thread...I'm going to get down there today and start keeping it wet with creeping oil ahead of the big day!
Removing the nut. I've already removed the set screws (i call them grub screws but same ol) without problem

Hope your maintenance kit arrives soon and definitely do oil it every day haha... I'll have to take note on that once I've replaced it
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Old 04-17-2020, 08:32 PM   #18
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I'd rather take it to the yard, turning the project over to the professional.
Sadly in a time and place like mine, there aren't many qualified professionals, a lot of them are self proclaimed without any resumes to go along with their claims
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Old 04-17-2020, 08:35 PM   #19
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That's gonna take a big pipe wrench. Leverage is your friend. Hoping a wrench are you using?
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Old 04-17-2020, 08:37 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by stubones99 View Post
You can install a spare carbon and end cap with the bellows forward on the shaft, so when it happens again, cut the old one off, slide the new one down and re-install the new one.

I've seen several boats with spinning spares (taped up) on the shaft.
Wouldn't that cause intense vibrations? If it isn't secured (taped at best as you said) they would most likely be off centred from the shaft and cause vibrations. If you could explain that then it would be something to consider after, I'll definitely take a look into it.
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