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Old 03-10-2018, 01:56 PM   #21
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McGillicuddy, nice... question is how do you (or I for that matter) NOT varnish over the paint when you recoat? Taking varnish up the edge of a flat area is a bear. At least it was for me. The carved letters add even more issues because there is no way to varnish up to the carving without it going down into the letter. Then...the little areas inside the "B" or "K"......ARGH!! I was sort of concerned about the maintenance of the gold leaf later on but, as I mentioned, after about $110 worth of leaf you get pretty good at it. Redoing it is not a big deal.....now.


Just take my time. No hurry. Smaller artist brush at the edges of the letters.
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Old 03-10-2018, 02:00 PM   #22
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Also, varnish first then paint.
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Old 03-10-2018, 02:22 PM   #23
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Also, varnish first then paint.
Yes but again at some point you have to revarnish, add extra coats. Varnish up to and around the painted letters, what a pain! I will say that the carved letters allow me to go over them with a Q-tip to get the varnish off fairly well.
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Old 03-10-2018, 06:26 PM   #24
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All of the characters/flags/symbols/figures on my board are carved.
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Old 03-10-2018, 07:11 PM   #25
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Which varnish do you use?
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Old 03-10-2018, 11:43 PM   #26
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Epifanes
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Old 03-11-2018, 12:10 AM   #27
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McGillicuddy, nice... question is how do you (or I for that matter) NOT varnish over the paint when you recoat? Taking varnish up the edge of a flat area is a bear.....
Possible, but not easy. I varnish over the painted engraved lettering, non painted teak areas need refinishing before the letters. Of course, it all gets done in the revamp.
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Old 03-11-2018, 07:22 PM   #28
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Stripping varnish

This is a bit off topic for the thread, but I used a heat gun and an attached scraper to strip varnish. I learned that if I go sloe and apply constant pressure, this technique really works.

Notice in the photo that the varnish is bubbling. Also, I used some aluminum duct sealing tape (not the same as "duct tape") as a heat shield for the surrounding wood. It worked well, but that stuff was STICKY!

Now I've gotta sand....
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Old 03-11-2018, 08:45 PM   #29
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Tom, a heat gun is great to remove old varnish, though how you strip one area on a board without doing all of it, I don`t know. don`t you end up with a stripped/unstripped edge somewhere?
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Old 03-11-2018, 08:53 PM   #30
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Epifanes
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recoat over the paint. Epifanes will make the white letters go yellow. Gives you a measure of the number of times you have recoated, by the amount of yellowing your name has taken. Mine are getting quite yellow. I have repainted the white lettering once, like rebooting.

Cut some kerfs in the back of the boards on the transom to allow them to curve more easily.
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Old 03-11-2018, 09:45 PM   #31
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Tom, a heat gun is great to remove old varnish, though how you strip one area on a board without doing all of it, I don`t know. don`t you end up with a stripped/unstripped edge somewhere?


Yeah. But Im under the gun the get it done. Ive done this before and feathered the edges with the sander. As my dad used to say, looks fine from the back of a galloping horse.
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