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Old 04-04-2020, 11:16 AM   #21
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The Forespar Marelon Y valves are floppier than the thru hulls. As was said above, the larger valves are more robust than the smaller ones. Both bronze and Marelon valves can break - but Marelon do not corrode, bronze does. On my custom built sailboat, cost was not considered and I did the opposite - Marelon below the waterline, bronze above. Why? Plastic does not last above the water (in the sun) while metal lasts forever in the sun but not in seawater.
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Old 04-04-2020, 12:09 PM   #22
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Marelon is interesting stuff, and has a use. Sadly it has a failing, in that if you have a barnacle or any debris in the rotating ball, it can gall or seize the valve in a heart beat. I've had them on 2 of my yachts upon purchasing them , and changed them out in a year below the waterline. Because of galling / seizing.
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Old 04-04-2020, 02:02 PM   #23
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I used all Forespar Marelon seacocks, the triangular flanged ones, 4 below the waterline, and one in a sink drain slightly above the waterline. The one in the sink drain froze open, I tried lubing it as much as was possible but with little improvement. I called Forespar for ideas, their attitude was ya, if you don't exercise them regularly they do that. They also said that there is no fix other than replacement. Their attitude was just buy another one.
The ones below the waterline still work, but now I'm just holding my breath waiting for one of those to freeze, knowing that would entail a haulout and a whole bunch more work to fix.. When I replaced my thruhulls I was all excited to use all Marelon,no corrosion and all that. After my experience I'm less enthused, after my conversations with Forespar even less.
Another thing which I think is a big drawback is that there is no way to lube the ball other than squirting something in the ends, seems like there should be a grease fitting in the side or something.
Here is a serious weirdity. On the Forespar Marelon triangular flange seacocks there is no specific orientation between the flange bolt pattern and the valve lever. I found this out by using one seacock as a pattern to drill the mounting holes for all my seacocks. Then when I went to mount them the handle directions were all over the place. I called Forespar on this also, they said it's correct that there is no specific orientation between triangular flange and lever. They have multiple molds and they're all different. That one I really don't understand.
If I was to do it again I don't think I'd use Forespar Marelon again. Seems like a good idea but I think the execution is lacking.
This got me thinking. Whatever happened to that Tru-Design line of glass filled composite thruhulls that Raritan picked up? It doesn't show up on their website anymore. Looked like nice stuff, Raritan is a great company. I think Tru-Design is out of NZ and originally it was all metric, I thought they then added imperial.
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Old 04-04-2020, 04:21 PM   #24
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AS you can see in my previous post I like you am not a fan of Marelon. I was probably kind in my previous comments. I used to run boatyards and in the late 80's all the racing yachts started using them. The problem was one barnacle and if it got in the valve, they would break up and engrain in the ball of the valve and seize it up. I worked in Bermuda and no shortage of barnacles there.

Sadly these were new yachts. Over a period of time we changed them to bronze.
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Old 04-05-2020, 06:47 AM   #25
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Hull values need to be cycled a few times each year (maybe once a month or when you are in the ER doing other stuff) and serviced when having the bottom painted
I close all of mine every time I leave the boat unattended, sorta makes sense when you think about it. I also take mine apart at least once each year to clean and grease them, more if I haul out for any reason.
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Old 04-05-2020, 07:57 AM   #26
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I close all of mine every time I leave the boat unattended, sorta makes sense when you think about it. I also take mine apart at least once each year to clean and grease them, more if I haul out for any reason.
And some go to the extent of flushing all the systems with fresh water too.
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Old 04-05-2020, 11:05 AM   #27
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On the yearly haul, I grease my Marelon seacocks with plastic safe grease (Superlube or the Forespar product sold for this specifically). This can be done from the bottom without removing the hose. Buy some flux brushes. Trim the bristles short, to about 3/8" to make is stiffer. You may need to tape the brush to a longer stick. Close all the valves and go around smearing a bit of grease on the balls. Now operate all the valves a few times, then leave them almost all the way - but not quite fully - open. Bend the very end of your brush over about 160 degrees, tight bend. Push the brush past the ball and smear some grease on the edge of the back side of the ball (exposed because you left it slightly closed). This lubricates the top of the ball. Again operate the valves a few times.

This takes about 15 minutes to do on 7 seacocks.
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Old 04-05-2020, 01:02 PM   #28
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I thought, at some point, that Forespar also had a heavier than water liquid lube that you could pour in from the top. I don't see anything like that on their website now.


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On the yearly haul, I grease my Marelon seacocks with plastic safe grease (Superlube or the Forespar product sold for this specifically). This can be done from the bottom without removing the hose. Buy some flux brushes. Trim the bristles short, to about 3/8" to make is stiffer. You may need to tape the brush to a longer stick. Close all the valves and go around smearing a bit of grease on the balls. Now operate all the valves a few times, then leave them almost all the way - but not quite fully - open. Bend the very end of your brush over about 160 degrees, tight bend. Push the brush past the ball and smear some grease on the edge of the back side of the ball (exposed because you left it slightly closed). This lubricates the top of the ball. Again operate the valves a few times.

This takes about 15 minutes to do on 7 seacocks.
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Old 04-06-2020, 06:52 AM   #29
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The problem for me is metal is tougher than plastic.

Intakes for the engine or toilet are seldom exercised enough to stay totally clear of growth.

A rotating bronze sea cock will close , even if it needs persuasion , the plastic ???
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Old 04-06-2020, 10:10 AM   #30
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The exercising required is every 6 or 12 months. Shouldn't be all that burdensome. If you don't do that on your bronze seacocks, you are asking for trouble anyway.
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Old 04-07-2020, 06:16 AM   #31
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"The exercising required is every 6 or 12 months."



In 6 to 12 months clams and muscle shells can get pretty tough.
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