Another GFCI Problem

[psneeld]

Originally Posted by FF

"instead of a simple terminal block for the DC connection...sure enough the factory installed an outlet and regular old 110 plug.nicely labeled though."

A house plug and sockets are great for DC as they wipe and clean when the plug goes in.

With most boats having no 240v items , the use of a 15A or 20A plug an socket built in the 240V style is a great way to power DC items of less than 20A.

These are cheap (in boat terms) and work well as DC supplys as the ground pin (not hooked up ) works to self polarize the circuit.

About 3X the current caring ability of a std cigar lighter socket and plug.

A boat with a genuine 240v socket and plug need can simply use a std 240V with a 30A plug and socket so there is no confusion.

All true enough...knew the 240 plug trick from my days at the marine electronics firm I worked for...had their test bench wired up that way 110/12V right next to each other buy different socket/plugs.

I have a few of the 240 sockets wired for 12V too as I detest cigarette light lighter receptacle/plug combos.

But in the case of the refrigerator...for a dedicated circuit that is buried well...why add a plug and socket when either butt connectors or a terminal strip would have been fine. Access under the forward vee berth to the terminal strip would have been fine. Guess the builder had their reasons...just better if not a standard socket.

[Av8]

Originally Posted by psneeld

Assuming the the correct setup was used...as we know...you never know for sure what some will do on bosts.

I finally looked behind my fridge this week ...instead of a simple terminal block for the DC connection...sure enough the factory installed an outlet and regular old 110 plug.nicely labeled though..fortunately the label glue is better than the construction methods.

Having read that some people have had their DC systems with black and white wiring (like the old Furuno power cords)....I wonder what color code is used in the OPS boat and still wondering if the boat is wired for a 50A 125 /250 or 2 30A cords and how the out of phase leg is in the outlet line and not the whole boat.

My boat is wired 50a 125/250.

Phil

[psneeld]

Originally Posted by Av8

My boat is wired 50a 125/250.

Phil

Not sure at this point...but I would check the neutral to the ground and see if I was getting 110...If so...as really what I think some have said...you might have one of the incoming hot legs somehow getting power to the neutral.

It should be the "other" leg from the one supplying the hot to that GFI.

If not obvious and you don't have the time but have the money...a pro may be able to track down the fault with specialized tools easier than I could.

If you like the work or just plain want to do it yourself...that's one direction.

Cant think of any other reason...but there are several ways /places the fault could be happening.

[C lectric]

How about a GOOD photo of the receptacle. Maybe as already suggested it IS a 240v unit for some now unknown purpose.
You state the boat has 240 aboard so it may have been intentional.
A GOOD photo will tell.

[Av8]

"Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler."

Voltages measured in multiple combinations, I removed the receptacle and wires, measured voltage at each leg, separated the line from the load wires, diagramed it all out on paper and put it all back together. I the crossed over to the starboard side of the boat to replace a bad switch. I measured the voltage and found 240v. I went to the shipyards closest receptacle and again, 240v. Meter gently discarded, it looked great flying across the yard into a pile of junk. Two things worked against me, a bad meter inherited from past owner, and the GFCI was wired incorrectly. All is well on Rogue. Many thanks to all who responded with advice. I now have a better understanding of my wiring, and a new volt ohm meter.

Phil

[psneeld]

Good job....

The best advice I ever had and passed for troubleshooting is check the simple first and when it's not that...double check yourself, your equipment and your troubleshooting proceedures....because it IS usually something simple.