Would like bridle suggestions

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La Sirena

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2020
Messages
117
Location
United States
Vessel Name
Untethered
Vessel Make
Selene 57
My wife and I are full time cruisers on our 100,000 lb Selene 57. We anchor out 90% of the time, so about 300 days per year. Not every night is like a mill pond. We've seen 50kt winds, but try to be protected from big waves. We use a Mantus chain hook (the newer one), clevis, and 1", 3 strand rope braided into a "Y" and braided around a thimble (see picture). You can see from the picture that the bridle is failing at the "Y" braid. I was going to replace my bridle with a Mantu$$$ bridle and contacted a friend with a similar boat. His Mantus bridle is also failing at the "Y" braid. After doing some reading, I found out the braid is the weak link in those types of bridles. A better solution is to have two separate 1", 3 strand nylon lines with thimbles braided on one end, and attach those thimbles to the chain hook clevis.

Questions for the collective... do any of you have experience with my proposed setup? Advantages, disadvantages? Also, can anyone recommend a shop that can supply me with 2 custom made lines? I'm looking for 1", 3 strand nylon, 50' long, high quality thimbles braided in one end, and colored cord weaved in every 10" as markers.

Thanks in advance!
 

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You have the hardware, you can just make your wn from line you have onboard. Maybe an hours work.

Mine uses the older Mantus chain hook, which I love, but it has two separate lines, each braided through the hole in the chain hook.
 
Couple of observations:

Bridles (snubbers) like dock lines are consumables. The harsher their environment, the shorter their life expectancy.

If you anchor in 50 knot winds with a 100,000 lbs. boat, you're asking a lot from 1" 3 strand.

I carry a 3/4" 3 strand Y bridle for up to 30 knots expected winds. My storm snubber is 1" of a different configuration. My boat fully loaded is under 50,000 lbs.

Lots of shops can provide custom lines. Where are you presently located?

Ted
 
We are currently anchored at Port Washington headed to Virginia by Halloween. Would like to take delivery of new bridle system there. One reason for getting separate lines for each side of the bridle is so they can be easily replaced.
 
I used the setup I think you are describing. Splicing in a thimble (using an "eye" splice) into one end of 3 stand rope is fairly easy, and there are many sources of instructions on how to do this (for example UTube). I did mine myself. There is even an app called Grog knots that can show you how to do an "eye splice".

Not being from your area, I cannot help with finding a "pro" to do this for you. However, it is an easy DIY project.
Good luck, and I think you are on a "right track". :)
 
I got carried away or obsessed and fretted about our dinghy setup for quite a while. I had to laugh when I saw your initial photo because that could have been taken on our boat at one point, with the same result. Tried large, really expensive black rubber snubbers and two lines separately back-braided through the snubber eye but the snubbers left black marks on the white swim step. I've had lots of practice braiding three-strand over the years and I can do some pretty creative things, but often with the same result as your photo and I got annoyed. After years of trying different things, we settled on the following. Our boats and the configurations are certainly different so yours will vary of course, but this is what we finally do:

For mooring the dingy to the boat, I use two lines. Big bronze snap-clips (Defender, they're not cheap but last forever), clipped to the metal mooring rings or the vinyl hand-holds at each end of the dinghy. I braid the three-strand to the snap clips myself, minor task as firehoser mentions above. Then, after years of experimentation and lots of far more expensive options that didn't work for one reason or another, I snake the mooring lines through the center of oversize pool noodles, matching the green "theme color" of the boat and boat canvas. Standard pool noodles are about 2.5" in diameter, I'm talking "jumbo," which are 3.5 or even larger by special order. They only last one season so I have to replace them every year, but they only cost a few dollars and work so well who cares. They usually come 55" long, but that's too long. I whack them to 48" or just a little less. I figured the further from the boat the better, but that's wrong, too long doesn't work well, they flex too much and let the dinghy bounce off the boat with every wave. Then I back braid snap clips to the other end of the mooring lines. If you get the right size snap clips and the jumbo noodles, you can use string to yank the snap clips through the center holes of the pool noodles. I leave about one foot of line and clips hanging out each end of the noodles. The great thing is that unlike real marine snubbers, when you want to pull the dinghy in close, you can easily bend the noodles, but otherwise they're surprisingly good at holding the dingy off in chop or wind.

And then when we're running, we have a separate system as a towing bridle, but same general idea. One line goes from the metal D-rings on each side of the dingy's bow, again with snap clips braided to the ends. Then I use a second towing line for the tail of the "Y" with a welded metal rigging ring braided on one end, then a peanut buoy (you know, those bean-shaped floats they use to mark swimming pool lap lanes). Rigging rings are common in hardware stores, it's just a welded metal ring, and we let that ring free-ride back and forth on the line that runs between the dinghy d-rings. In other words the whole thing makes a "Y" with a long tail to the center swim-step cleat. I also make sure the ring diameter is just a little smaller than the bronze snap clips at the dinghy, because then even if a D-ring or D-ring mount fails on the dinghy, the line will run out until the snap clip hits the ring and the worst thing that happens is the dinghy gets towed on a slant by the remaining d-ring until somebody notices (or until the other one rips off too). You can get carried away with this whole thing and buy mountain-climber stuff, but back braiding is easy and you can make your own once you get the hang of it. But here's an example if you want to spend the money:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/264291429990

Wish I had a picture of the whole thing but the boat is 90 minutes away. The great things about our setup is (1) any separate part or piece can be easily re-made or replaced if it chafes or wears out at very low cost, and (2) the mooring noodles float and are easy to grab, so I don't have to use polypropylene rope which I generally don't like and it's really stiff for braiding, and (3) using peanut buoys on the towing line also keeps the line at or near the surface so it doesn't foul the prop, and the peanut buoys are aerodynamic (hydrodynamic?) so they don't introduce much drag.

Yes, you can see I've over-thought all this really badly.
 
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It is pretty easy to splice 3 strand. Watch a couple of videos on utube. Do some practice splices and then go for it.
 
We are currently anchored at Port Washington headed to Virginia by Halloween. Would like to take delivery of new bridle system there. One reason for getting separate lines for each side of the bridle is so they can be easily replaced.

I haven't been there in a decade or more, but if you're coming via the Chesapeake, one of the chandeliers in Annapolis would probably be my choice. Stop by and pick it up. This time of year, they may do it while you wait. Fawcetts appears to be gone, but there are always others that do custom splicing.

Ted
 
If you prefer to buy online and have it shipped Hamilton Marine will sell and splice to your specifications. I buy fist quality New England rope from them for my snubber creations. You will need to call them, but here's there website.

https://hamiltonmarine.com/

Ted
 
Fawcetts appears to be gone, but there are always others that do custom splicing.


Fawcett's moved out of Ego Alley, and might have new owners from original... but they're still in Annapolis (Bay Ridge Rd) and easy enough Uber (or similar) destination.

-Chris
 
If you use nylon plait line instead of three strand nylon you will be delighted. I use separate lines,. one on each side going to the chain. The lines are made identical lengths so that the strain will be equalized under load. I use a soft shackle rather than any of the metal hardware to connect the thimbles to the chain. The commercial chain hooks are not convenient if one person is on the bow doing the anchoring because you need to keep some tension on the lines until they are deployed. A soft shackle is stronger, easy to connect, and best of all, the snubber can be connected and disconnected to the chain on the deck rather than hanging over the bow plank. Wherever i purchase the plait, I ask a local rigger to splice thimbles at one end of each piece. The plait eye splice is not a simple one.
 
I don't think I would go with thimbles. Two or three of them coming together will get "clunky" or heavy, might even damage your deck or tow rail in time.

pete
 
I made up mine by splicing 2 thimbles (1/2 inch, 3 strand) and attaching them to one shackle that was also connected to a grab hook.
They were about 25 feet each and easily made it to the sampson post.
It never marked the deck or pulpit.
Eventually I decided to only use one snubber and ran that over the bow roller. If I needed more snubbing, I used 2 or used my "storm" snubber that I made with 3/4 3 strand.
 
Thanks everyone for your replies. Having a shop in Annapolis make up the bridle is a good idea. We do plan on stopping there. I have done splicing of 3 braid line, and I agree it is easy. However, I don't trust myself in such a critical component, and I've never spliced a 1" line. Under high stress, I'm not sure my splice will be strong enough. Also, I haven't read enough about the strength of soft shackles for a 100,000 boat, so I won't be using a soft shackle. I already have a Mantus hook anyway.

Here's a good website if you haven't seen it already. Lots of good information in it. www.snubberhead.com
 
Softshackles are made from Dyneema, they are easy to make & are stronger than your metal hook at a size that (doubled) will pass through your chain ( or you can buy them ready made). My boats us only 67,000 lbs but I make new soft shackles every 2 years when they fade in our Southern sun, but I’ve never had one fail or start to tear. If your eye splice looks proper, it will be strong, but no reason you can’t extend the length of the eye splice to be conservative. But hey, if having pros make ‘em is preferable for you & you will sleep better, then that’s the perfect solution.
 
Thanks everyone for your replies. Having a shop in Annapolis make up the bridle is a good idea. We do plan on stopping there. I have done splicing of 3 braid line, and I agree it is easy. However, I don't trust myself in such a critical component, and I've never spliced a 1" line. Under high stress, I'm not sure my splice will be strong enough. Also, I haven't read enough about the strength of soft shackles for a 100,000 boat, so I won't be using a soft shackle. I already have a Mantus hook anyway.

Here's a good website if you haven't seen it already. Lots of good information in it. www.snubberhead.com

In the time it took to read this thread a person like yourself could make a bridle.

If you have problems with your bridle, you use the extra dock lines you already have onboard to make a new one or repair the old one.
 

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www.ropeinc.com
I bought my tow line for my center counsel that tow from them. These guys know there stuff.
 
My wife and I are full time cruisers on our 100,000 lb Selene 57. We anchor out 90% of the time, so about 300 days per year. Not every night is like a mill pond. We've seen 50kt winds, but try to be protected from big waves. We use a Mantus chain hook (the newer one), clevis, and 1", 3 strand rope braided into a "Y" and braided around a thimble (see picture). You can see from the picture that the bridle is failing at the "Y" braid. I was going to replace my bridle with a Mantu$$$ bridle and contacted a friend with a similar boat. His Mantus bridle is also failing at the "Y" braid.

The mantus bridle is just a very expensive piece of cheap nylon rope

We cruise full time anchor out all year on high windage 60ft @ 143000lbs

We use a single snubber 20mm 3 strand nylon
Bought a whole drum at the right price
Make a new snubber ever 2 years

Eyesplices are easy.
Make sure you have thimbles in them.
Worthwhile getting the heavy duty Galv ones, s/s ones have been known to collapse so I have been told.
 

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"A better solution is to have two separate 1", 3 strand nylon lines with thimbles braided on one end, and attach those thimbles to the chain hook clevis."


I always splice 2 separate lines, you can use thimbles or not depending on what your splicing to.
 
Go to Rope.comThey will custom make anchor or towing bridles.
I have one that I use to tow a 17’ skiff all over the Caribbean, give them your specs and they will know how to make it.
 
My vote is for the 3 strand (some stretch) and always with thimbles and two lines. Simple as that. My splices are uggggly, so had them made up by those who know better. For 50ft LOA, 55K, made 2 bridles: 1 at 10 ft for "normal times" with 9/16" and used wire reinforced hose in the chocks for chafe protection. Length adjustable at the cleats. Also used a 35 ft bridle, same size line, for when forecasts are really ripping; 45 - 60 kts. (Can't imagine using 50 ft of bridle and 1" seems way heavy. 3/4 would likely suffice.) Keep in mind, only one line is carrying the load most of the time due to swinging.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I have ordered some rope and closed SS thimbles from Defender and having it sent to a local sail maker to splice, seize and whip. The galvanized steel thimbles would have been a good idea too. Some of the suggestions above, particularly eye splices without thimbles, would not last long during a storm (Imho).
 
Simple Bridle

What works best for us is a simple approach requiring only line. No other components are necessary.

We use two 3-strand lines, each about 30' long. That's all. Once our anchor is set, I set up our bridle as follows. I run these lines from our samson posts outward through hawseholes, then to the anchor roller and feed them backwards through the roller. I then tie each one to the anchor rode somewhere between the windlass and the anchor roller using a simple clove hitch, which forms the bridle. Then I let out a few more feet of anchor line until this bridle carries the load, and the anchor line goes slack between the windlass and this bridle. It is very fast and simple to tie and untie. The 3-strand tied in a clove hitch grips chain or line extremely well -- it never slips. There is no need for any metal. No chain hook. No thimble. Just the line. As a result it is quite, lightweight, nothing to "clank" or make any noise against your hull, or even when storing it, deploying it or retrieving it. It is just line.

Maybe the biggest benefit of this approach is you have two 30' long lines that are always available to use for any other purpose (because they have no thimbles or any other hardware) when you are not anchored.
 
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