If they are wired correctly it should not be a problem. GFIs look at the current going out on the hot lead and compare it with the current returning on the neutral lead. If they are not equal within the 6 mAmp tolerance for an outlet GFI, then the GFI will trip because the current is returning on some path other than the neutral. The USB outlets should not be leaking current to ground if they are operating correctly so they should work with a GFI. Maybe the electrician didn’t want to mess with the GFIs since they can be finicky and have nuisance trips. Also GFIs seem to wear out sooner than expected.
Great info, especially CaptTom’s summary on cords. I’m thinking of converting some old, unused 12-volt outlets to USB, using the BlueSeas stuff. Do I understand correctly that the 12-volt powered gear has no parasitic loads?
Leviton’s USB Charger/Tamper-Resistant Receptacle replaces a standard dual AC wall receptacle with a unit that integrates two intelligent USB outlet ports with high-quality chips and circuitry that recognize and charge all your USB-enabled electronics to optimal levels for each individual device. And when the Leviton USB Charger isn’t charging, it’s completely off—not in standby mode and still drawing unnecessary current.
Nothing concrete....but it seems some 12V ones also have parasitic draw....so you have to check both 12v and 120v models.
If you have a newer phone or laptop that charges with USB C ports, you might prefer this product since it has both USB and USB C ports on the same outlet body.
Great info, especially CaptTom’s summary on cords. I’m thinking of converting some old, unused 12-volt outlets to USB, using the BlueSeas stuff. Do I understand correctly that the 12-volt powered gear has no parasitic loads?
Angus, Since there has to be circuitry converting 12vdc down to 5vdc, there will be some parasitic draw. I was impressed that it can sense a load and enable the DC-DC converter to provide power so the draw without an external device attached is under 50mw.
If you have a phone / tablet connected to a USB port, the draw will jump to the power requirements of the device, up to the max limits of the DC-DC converter.
I’d like to convert the old 12-volt receptacles in our master berth to USB charging stations without adding more AC. (I just replaced all the 110-volt outlets on the boat.) The blue Sea unit looks like it might fit—minus the dustcap. Part 1045 ($30 street price):
- Charges at the speed required by specific devices
- Internal filtering for reduced electronic interference
- Over temperature protection
- Protective dust cap keeps debris and moisture out
- Conformal coated circuit board for the harsh marine environment
- Max 4.8 amp charge
- 1 mA parasitic draw
Thanks, Scott!
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