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Old 12-14-2017, 10:08 AM   #21
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Has anyone tried RidX in their sanitary tank? The stuff folks use in a home septic system.
Or perhaps ordinary yeast?
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Old 12-14-2017, 10:14 AM   #22
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It's commonly called a "holding tank" not a "sanitary tank".
Google 'Marine Sanitation Tank', or 'Marine Sanitation Line'. You'll find they are synonymous.
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Old 12-14-2017, 10:18 AM   #23
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Peggie has contributed her professional advice to this discussion many times. Using the search link at the bottom of this post, I bet you'd find a plethora of posts using "Headmistress Raritan KO".
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Old 12-14-2017, 10:34 AM   #24
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Google 'Marine Sanitation Tank', or 'Marine Sanitation Line'. You'll find they are synonymous.
On submarines, they are identified as sanitary tanks, by a number so one would know what drains into it.
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Old 12-14-2017, 11:00 AM   #25
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Sanitary tank

We use Zaal’s Noflex digestor as it’s available locally. I have heard that the blue stuff kills bacteria, which isn’t the best thing for waste tanks. The “Head Mistress” is the expert on this topic and she has published a maintenance guide on the subject. She recommends Raritan CP, which is another enzyme based product. She’s on the forum and hopefully will chime in.

Jim
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Old 12-14-2017, 12:30 PM   #26
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Has anyone tried RidX in their sanitary tank? The stuff folks use in a home septic system.
Or perhaps ordinary yeast?
At one time our company packaged bread yeast and I had a lot kicking around
It didn't work on our holding tank and in my friend home septic it didn't help

Good idea though
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Old 12-14-2017, 01:13 PM   #27
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We don't have any problems, odor or otherwise, but don't use blue stuff or any other chemicals or aerators. We use cheap Costco TP (single ply) and the system is freshwater flushed.
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Old 12-14-2017, 01:57 PM   #28
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Does Peggie Hall frequent this site? I know she is active on the sister site "Cruisers Forum". I have her book "Get Rid of Boat Odors" on my Christmas list. It would be interested in hearing her take on this thread.
Yep...I hang out here too...and I've been watching this thread. If you'd like a signed copy of my book, sailboatowners.com is offering it. They're sending the POs to me, I'm signing and mailing the books.
https://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?53615

I have heard that the blue stuff kills bacteria, which isn’t the best thing for waste tanks.

Correct. Bacteria is needed to break down and emulsify waste. The best products keep it alive. Oxygen is the key to PREVENTING odor'cuz when bacteria function aerobically, organic matter generates CO2 which is odorless. It's only when organic matter breaks down anaerobically (without oxygen that they can generate sulfur dioxide and hydrogen sulfide gasses--the stinky ones that are also toxic--and methane, which is odorless but flammable.


The “Head Mistress” recommends Raritan CP, which is another enzyme based product.

C.P. is a bio-enzymatic bowl cleaner that also happens to be the best sump and drain cleaner on the planet....but it's not a tank product. The two that I recommend are Odorlos (which btw is available from RV supply stores for a LOT less than marine stores) and No-Flex. Both work WITH nature to prevent odor instead of killing off all the bacteria.

Once a year, one cup joy dish detergent, fill tank half full with salt water, go for a spin in some choppy water, flush. Super clean. Used to do it to shrimp boat fuel tanks to before going inside to weld leaks. Shiny shiny.

Detergents emulsify oil and grease (the animal fats that build up on tank walls), but they don't do a thing to get rid of sludge. That requires flushing out the tank...which doesn't require filling up the tank, but instead putting enough water into it via the deck pumpout fitting ('cuz that sends the water into the tank at the bottom to stir up the sludge and hold it in suspension so it can be pumped out) to cover the bottom to depth of about 6-8"...pump that out. Repeat...repeat...till you're pumping out clean water. Or, if you have a washdown pump and a macerator and can get offshore far enough, use the washdown pump to put the water in the tank, then let the water continue to run while you run the macerator pump. This should be done 2-3x/year and especially in preparation for winter or other extended layup.

At one time our company packaged bread yeast and I had a lot kicking around. It didn't work on our holding tank and in my friend home septic it didn't help. Good idea though.

Wellll...maybe. A friend who had a summer home on an island somewhere in the Great Lakes learned the hard way that there can be too much of a good thing. The place had been unused long enough for the septic tank to die. Someone told him that a dose of yeast would restart it...but didn't tell him how much to use. So--being someone who believed that if a little is good, a lot is better--he put a block of Fleishmans down every toilet (the house had several bathrooms). After a few hours he began to hear a slight rumbling sound from the direction of the septic tank...it got louder...and louder...and then gasses started coming up the drains...water in toilet bowls began to "boil" and gasses began escaping through every sink, shower and tub drain...he thought the septic tank was about to explode! But no such luck...instead it erupted through every toilet and drain in the house. Not only did it make one hell of a mess, but the odor was so horrendous, they had to vacate the house! And it permeated everything so completely that the house had to be almost completely renovated before it could be occupied again.

So I don't recommend trying yeast in a holding tank!

As for RidX...septic tanks function anaerobically. The only thing it does is break down and emulsify all the food bits etc that go down house drains to prevent a clogged drain field.

And as for toilet paper.... To determine whether any TP is safe for use in marine toilets, put a couple sheets in mason jar (or whatever container you want to use) full of water...wait a couple of hours, then shake or stir the container. If the water is milky and all you see is "snow," it's fine for use on the boat. But if the sheets are still intact or mostly intact, try another brand.

Merry Christmas, y'all!

Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein
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Old 12-14-2017, 02:36 PM   #29
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Thanks HeadMistress. No yeast, no RidX, no more blue stuff (or green)
I guess I will stay with the single ply and double it, per usual
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Old 12-15-2017, 10:49 PM   #30
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Quote:
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Does Peggie Hall frequent this site? I know she is active on the sister site "Cruisers Forum". I have her book "Get Rid of Boat Odors" on my Christmas list. It would be interested in hearing her take on this thread.
Get the book, you won't be disappointed. Buy the book from Amazon, and then by the Kindle version for some ridiculously cheap price so you have access to it for reference whether at home or on the boat.

As others have mentioned, she would likely recommend lots of adequate holding tank ventilation. Mine is poor but improving it is on my long list of things to do.
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Old 12-15-2017, 10:52 PM   #31
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No problem getting Noflex down under
I know it is expensive but the freight and import duty's to Australia are deadly
You can also watch for sales. I think I picked up 6 containers from Fisheries supply at a relatively inexpensive price. Lasts a long time and the doesn't take up much room or weight.
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Old 12-16-2017, 01:25 PM   #32
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I always make it a practice to flush out the tank at the end of every pump out. That is, take another 10 or 15 minutes and run fresh water into it and then pump out again. Always seemed worth while, especially with a 200 gallon holding tank.
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Old 12-17-2017, 07:42 AM   #33
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Another vote fir air...air...air and NoFlex.
I have Peggys first edition and it helped me solve a stinky problem on previous boat... Thanks again Peggy
Present Mainship wS nearly impossible to change / add the proper venting and built a DIY bubbler. That and NoFlex has really helped.
Bubbler write up & pics can be found on linked Bacchus website in Projects section or let me know and I can get you info
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Old 12-17-2017, 08:08 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by HeadMistress View Post
Yep...I hang out here too...and I've been watching this thread. If you'd like a signed copy of my book, sailboatowners.com is offering it. They're sending the POs to me, I'm signing and mailing the books.
https://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?53615

I have heard that the blue stuff kills bacteria, which isn’t the best thing for waste tanks.

Correct. Bacteria is needed to break down and emulsify waste. The best products keep it alive. Oxygen is the key to PREVENTING odor'cuz when bacteria function aerobically, organic matter generates CO2 which is odorless. It's only when organic matter breaks down anaerobically (without oxygen that they can generate sulfur dioxide and hydrogen sulfide gasses--the stinky ones that are also toxic--and methane, which is odorless but flammable.


The “Head Mistress” recommends Raritan CP, which is another enzyme based product.

C.P. is a bio-enzymatic bowl cleaner that also happens to be the best sump and drain cleaner on the planet....but it's not a tank product. The two that I recommend are Odorlos (which btw is available from RV supply stores for a LOT less than marine stores) and No-Flex. Both work WITH nature to prevent odor instead of killing off all the bacteria.

Once a year, one cup joy dish detergent, fill tank half full with salt water, go for a spin in some choppy water, flush. Super clean. Used to do it to shrimp boat fuel tanks to before going inside to weld leaks. Shiny shiny.

Detergents emulsify oil and grease (the animal fats that build up on tank walls), but they don't do a thing to get rid of sludge. That requires flushing out the tank...which doesn't require filling up the tank, but instead putting enough water into it via the deck pumpout fitting ('cuz that sends the water into the tank at the bottom to stir up the sludge and hold it in suspension so it can be pumped out) to cover the bottom to depth of about 6-8"...pump that out. Repeat...repeat...till you're pumping out clean water. Or, if you have a washdown pump and a macerator and can get offshore far enough, use the washdown pump to put the water in the tank, then let the water continue to run while you run the macerator pump. This should be done 2-3x/year and especially in preparation for winter or other extended layup.

At one time our company packaged bread yeast and I had a lot kicking around. It didn't work on our holding tank and in my friend home septic it didn't help. Good idea though.

Wellll...maybe. A friend who had a summer home on an island somewhere in the Great Lakes learned the hard way that there can be too much of a good thing. The place had been unused long enough for the septic tank to die. Someone told him that a dose of yeast would restart it...but didn't tell him how much to use. So--being someone who believed that if a little is good, a lot is better--he put a block of Fleishmans down every toilet (the house had several bathrooms). After a few hours he began to hear a slight rumbling sound from the direction of the septic tank...it got louder...and louder...and then gasses started coming up the drains...water in toilet bowls began to "boil" and gasses began escaping through every sink, shower and tub drain...he thought the septic tank was about to explode! But no such luck...instead it erupted through every toilet and drain in the house. Not only did it make one hell of a mess, but the odor was so horrendous, they had to vacate the house! And it permeated everything so completely that the house had to be almost completely renovated before it could be occupied again.

So I don't recommend trying yeast in a holding tank!

As for RidX...septic tanks function anaerobically. The only thing it does is break down and emulsify all the food bits etc that go down house drains to prevent a clogged drain field.

And as for toilet paper.... To determine whether any TP is safe for use in marine toilets, put a couple sheets in mason jar (or whatever container you want to use) full of water...wait a couple of hours, then shake or stir the container. If the water is milky and all you see is "snow," it's fine for use on the boat. But if the sheets are still intact or mostly intact, try another brand.

Merry Christmas, y'all!

Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein


This was a long time ago, I would probably use Dawn now. Im not a scientist, but I did stay at a Holiday in express last night. Kidding aside, I think the salt water was a major factor. If you've never crawled in a twenty year old shrimp boat fuel tank, you don't know what your missing. I've used the same technique on various boat holding tanks over the years and had success.
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Old 12-17-2017, 08:14 AM   #35
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This was a long time ago, I would probably use Dawn now. Im not a scientist, but I did stay at a Holiday in express last night. Kidding aside, I think the salt water was a major factor. If you've never crawled in a twenty year old shrimp boat fuel tank, you don't know what your missing. I've used the same technique on various boat holding tanks over the years and had success.
I currently have a vacu-flush, fresh water flush. No problems with smell but as they say, I just may be 'noise blind'.
Prior to this, I had a saltwater flush on my other boat. No smell there either.
BUT, I have always used 'blue stuff'. The N46 had a stainless tank. Opened it up, totally clean but the smell could 'knock a maggot off a gut wagon.'
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