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Old 03-12-2017, 12:24 PM   #141
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Obie

I've read this thread and compliment you on your purchase and mission. Post 123 sums up my thinking. The Alaska fisheries group or whoever built and maintained the vessel would be my choice for metal hull advice. Those of us who do not own a steel boat have little knowledge to realistically pass on. There is one previous TF member who knows this stuff inside out, but he is on the wrong coast.

A true story -- a decade ago one of my dock mates was doing some grounding work on his FRP KK 42. He knew it all. After his efforts the through hulls lasted less than a month. The vessel sunk at the dock one night.
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Old 03-12-2017, 12:46 PM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xsbank View Post
What do you need a compressor for? Except for a horn, can't think of anything else?
Transmission and throttle controls are pneumatic on this boat.

Ted
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Old 03-12-2017, 08:41 PM   #143
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Ok, it was a long day but I nailed it!! Yes. I got the connections correct. I used an Ome meter, and slowly trudged thorough it. Then got new batteries, pulled the valve cover checked the injectors, attached a vice grips to fuel rail, planned for a run away, alerted others to what I was doing, used a primer bulb, bled the system, and then fired her off. She ran great. I had previously used an air compressor to check for leaked. The shifters run a bit more abrupt than I like, will be trying to slow them down. The motor runs great. I ran it several time, probably around 45 minutes all together. I wil now do an oil change, and coolant change. Then will run a few more times after she is hooked up to the day tank. Hopefully I will be in the water in the next couple weeks.
Thank you guys for you messages.
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Old 03-12-2017, 08:45 PM   #144
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Congratulations!

Ted
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Old 03-12-2017, 09:21 PM   #145
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Hell yea!!!
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Old 03-12-2017, 09:49 PM   #146
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Wish I had those kind of mechanical chops. Nice job!

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Old 03-13-2017, 06:20 AM   #147
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" I wil now do an oil change, and coolant change."

Treat it right , it will treat you right.
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Old 04-05-2017, 08:33 AM   #148
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It's been a month now, I am realy close to getting back in the water. Bottom is done, 8 through hulls have been removed, leaving me with 5 with all new valves and such. New transducer to be installed today, water tankes have been stripped and re painted, what a pain. Most of the 1964 electrical base been removed. I have put new wiring into my most basic circuits giving me nav lights cabin lights a few 120 plugs. Enough to go the 120 mile treck home to portland. I have serviced everything except transmission, that will be done this week. Yahoo splash next week!!
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Old 04-05-2017, 09:29 AM   #149
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Just a few pics from a couple years ago

Just a few old pics
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Old 04-05-2017, 10:12 AM   #150
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Nice compass is that a 5" Ritchie?
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Old 04-05-2017, 12:46 PM   #151
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Sounds like things are coming together nicely! Looks like a nice boat with lots of possibilities.

Ted
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Old 04-05-2017, 01:08 PM   #152
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Looks like a Tollycraft sink and stove.
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Old 04-05-2017, 04:47 PM   #153
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Regarding your electrical and corrosion concerns, purchase a half-cell and use it to check for leakage between your hull and the water next to your boat. It's a great tool for trouble shooting current leakage. I use one to check my zinks, and for any stray current in the marina from others. When in doubt we don't connect to shore power. Regarding galvanic corrosion dc current is the biggest potential source of problems, esp battery chargers and dc belge pumps. Regarding transformers make certain you get one that also has the green ground connection isolated between the primary and secondary windings. Otherwise you are still connected to every other boat in a marina that is plugged in and may be having current leakage issues. A few hundred mili-amps of stray current can ruin your boat in a very short time. You have a great looking boat....and steel for PNW is an excellent choice.
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Old 04-06-2017, 09:04 AM   #154
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Thank you for your help. Should I be bonding my DC system to the hull. It's pretty hard to isolate it mostly due to a clutch pump that's frame is grounded. Also that meter sounds interesting where would I find one
Thank you
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Old 04-07-2017, 04:59 AM   #155
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The silver/silver chloride half cell I got was from boatzinks.com. It's a reference cell that has a plug on one end you connect to your multi-meter selected in the mili-amp range, and you place the electrode end in the water next to your boat. The resulting readings will determine the amount of zink protection you have. The booklet supplied with the cell has the info needed to determine your zink coverage; and also for example describe how to trouble shoot if the marina is hot by checking for leakage on the dock power ground buss. It's pricy at ~ $125, but can save you big time if you catch a potential problem in the making.

Regarding dc ground I am not an expert on this, but on my boat all my dc is grounded to one location on the engines. All grounds have a dedicated insulated wire returning back to the same location on all dc items esp bilge pumps etc. You do not want to use the hull as the ground path, using the hull as the path may creat reference differences in ground path resistance between the various items. As mentioned by others if your unsure seek out a real knowledgeable person. I have spent a lot of time and $ learning about these issues and am still by no means an expert. I know enough to be dangerous, so I keep seeking more info to improve my skills.
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Old 04-08-2017, 06:05 AM   #156
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[QUOTE=mike50;541484]The silver/silver chloride half cell I got was from boatzinks.com. It's a reference cell that has a plug on one end you connect to your multi-meter selected in the mili-amp range, and you place the electrode end in the water next to your boat.
Correction: the multi-meter is set to mili-volt; not mili-amp. Sorry for the confusion.
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Old 04-08-2017, 07:01 AM   #157
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Congratulations.
What a wonderful boat and I admire all of your work in this past month.

This was also a great thread, really informative.

I hope to see you some time.

Rchard
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Old 04-08-2017, 07:47 AM   #158
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Thank you for the great tip of BoatZincs.com (978-841-9978) - The Online Superstore for Zinc Anodes. What a great site! I will be ordering my probe. I was guessing we were talking about voltage not amperage. And I also would have never used my hull as part of the electrical system, although it sure would make wiring a snap.
I am days away from launch. Yesterday I finished off plumbing my through hulls. The surveyer had me do all pipe and ball valves in stainless. Yesterday it was gusting to 70 knots. My boat is on the hard in Astoria, it would shake hard and I was afraid all day she would tumble off the stands ugg. But it is a new day and all would seam to be ok. Today I will do some cleaning in the bilge, fire the motor again to check the hydraulics to the crane and windlesses, I had a burst line and dumped around 30 gallons of hydraulic oil in my aft locker before seeing it. No worries I was planning on changing the oil anyway, just not by using a Dixie cup to scoop.
Again thank you for your help
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Old 04-08-2017, 05:50 PM   #159
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Sounds like your doing very well. The reason for mentioning the dc grd issues was because I had a near sinking resulting from an aluminum gray water tank in the bilge area that had an internal dc pump and float switch failure. The tank was supposedly electrically isolated by the orig owner, but had one edge that came in contact with hull causing localized pin holes that were almost all the way through the 5/16" bottom plate. Had the worst of all conditions dissimilar metals and stray DC current. This was missed by the survayor and ultrasound inspection; we got very lucky. The comments about getting to know your boat before making changes is execellent advice.
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Old 04-08-2017, 08:53 PM   #160
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Ok I have hit the wall on one of my systems and I need help.
Hydraulics! So I have a hydraulic system that is daisy chained. The oil exits the pump go first to my crane. The crane workers grate, then it goes to my front windlass. Then I try to bring the windles forward or back it makes the pump belt slip. Then the oil goes to the stern windlass. The same thing happens when I try to operate that windlass. From there it then returns to the tank. Has anyone heard of a system like this? Were they are not in peralel, but in series.
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