La Paz as a Snowbird Destination

[ksanders]

I decided to actually go to La Paz, learn about the town, and look over the marinas prior to making the trip down the coast.

That way if I didn't like it, or if I didn't like Mexico for that matter I would not have made the commitment of the long Baja Coastline.

I have been here for several days and have had a chance to evaluate La Paz as a Snowbird Destination.

My first impressions were of course culture shock. La Paz is not a town where everyone speaks english. This is a town where the folks that speak english in general speak very little english. That is not bad, after all this is Mexico, and their language is spanish. I have been taking online classes for a few months and that helped quite a bit. A good translating app for my iphone, a smile, and patience helps a lot as well. The folks here are understanding but you have to try, and they recognize that someone is trying and help them.

My impressions, wandering around the Malecon area for several days are that this is a pretty much perfect snowbird destination. The weather is nice, the people are nice, the town is safe. Add thast to the fact that my US dollars go a long way and that makes it even better.

I looked over the three main marinas and I really like the vibe at Marina De La Paz. Neil the owner runs a great looking facility that is set up to be cruiser friendly.

Based on that I reserved a slip for next winter. Now I get to enjoy a couple more weeks in the sun, and fly home to get the boat prepped for the downhill run from Alaska. My departure date from Seward Alaska is a weather window in May.

Here are a few photos to share.

 

[Portage_Bay]

I've done a few deliveries to-from La Paz and a bit of running around the Sea of Cortez. I second your statement that if you try, even with very poor Spanish, and do so without a demanding or entitled attitude the Mexicans will try to help.

With the authorities a “gracias” and a smile go a long way to getting what you need. Without it you may find yourself waiting a long time for your paperwork.

Something to be aware of. The Mexican navy performs many of the functions of the USCG, but they are navy. Tread lightly. Some ports, La Paz is one, the captain of the port requires you to announce your arrival and departure on the VHF. They won't always respond so after repeated attempts go ahead with your plans.

My spanish is horrible. I make the initial call in spanish and if they want more info I apologize for my lack of spanish in spanish (thank you Google Translate) and they switch to english.

 

[bowball]

Keep us updated as that seems to be a great idea. Is length a problem in the marinas?

I recommend watching Clifford Tone’s An Achievable Dream YouTube videos as he plans the entire trip from San Diego to Alaska, with all the ports etc. I love his Delta shop as well.

 

[ksanders]

Keep us updated as that seems to be a great idea. Is length a problem in the marinas?

I recommend watching Clifford Tone’s An Achievable Dream YouTube videos as he plans the entire trip from San Diego to Alaska, with all the ports etc. I love his Delta shop as well.

i had no problem at 51 feet. just looking marina Palmaria seems to have a lot larger slips, and Marina Cortez has a huge dock face so length would be no issue.

visibly the marinas look pretty full. i would recommend reservations in advance.

i offered to pay for my 6 months in full but they only wanted a token deposit to hold the reservation

 

[KnotYet]

Great info!
Nothing like boots on the ground.

 

[Larry M]

Good choice on the marina imho. You’re within walking distance to pretty much everything you’ll need. Club Cruceros is on site which is a good resource and is tied into the local community.

If you haven’t found it and like ice cream, try La Fuente.

 

[ksanders]

Good choice on the marina imho. You’re within walking distance to pretty much everything you’ll need. Club Cruceros is on site which is a good resource and is tied into the local community.

If you haven’t found it and like ice cream, try La Fuente.

I went there last night, and the night before. It's just down the street from my hotel.

Just came back from breakfast at Maria California. What a wonderful experience!

https://menu-qrdigital.com/index.php/maria-california-english/

 

[klee wyck]

I will second Kevin's view on both the town and Marina de la Paz where Domino is now resident.
Also, reiterate Portage Bay's admonition on the Port Captains. This requirement to notify exists all over the Sea, but in some ports nobody seems to care or respond and there is no follow up. In La Paz specifically, there is the expectation that you will notify to the point where we heard about it from the marina when we failed to do this on one trip. Portage is right about the effort toward the native language and the response to that. We initiate the call in Spanish and then request consideration for our limited Spanish if we are directed to channel 14 (from 16 where we hail them) for further instruction.
Capitán del Puerto de La Paz
Estoy llegando a la paz (arriving)
Me voy de la paz (departing)

Also, in regard to Kevin's and other comments around food and cost of living:
The Malecon' and el Centro de la Paz are lovely and sort of cheap relative to the same amenities in the US. Sort of...
If instead, you come out of the marina and go right instead of left, not so polished like near the Malecon' but food is just as good and really, really cheap. Beer is cheaper than water.
In general, things that involve labor (such as food service) are much cheaper in Mexico, but this is not necessarily true for goods and especially not true for goods imported from the countries we as Americans are accustomed to seeing.

Overall, the place is just lovely. I am not there right now, and I cannot stop thinking about it.

BTW, Kevin, Marina Costa Baja as you are departing the bay is where the big boys are. You likely have not made it up that far.

 

[Alaskaflyer]

Kevin, what's the monthly price(-ish) for a slip your size there?

 

[ksanders]

Kevin, what's the monthly price(-ish) for a slip your size there?

I am at $1025 a month plus a $25 liveaboard fee.

https://www.marinadelapaz.com/rates/

I'm paying for the slip full time but of course expect to go exploring and come back to my slip, just like I do now in Seward.

This is new to me, and I need a home base to return to at least the first winter. The way I look at it is that in order to fully explore a place you need to spend some time there. We'll see how this technique plays out.

One thing I know is that as a solo cruiser I am not inclined to spend all of my time alone in a secluded anchorage. I need the human contact that comes with being in a town, even if I do not know anybody.

 

[BandB]

We spent a few days in La Paz and docked at Marina de La Paz as they can do side ties to 200' but slips limited to 70'. Found it very inviting and can easily see happiness snow birding there. Much different than around the corner in Cabo San Lucas which is far more geared toward big dollar tourists and more English spoken.

 

[Terry Wilkinson]

I live in La Paz and have for past 6 years, have smaller Sportfishing boat now, 26’ Catamaran. I used to have a Bayliner 4588, but sold before moving here.

Have cruised north from La Paz, Sea of Cortez is great, in winter watch the north winds, when a weather systems affects California and Arizona we get strong winds from north for 4-5 days at a time then calmer days for a few days then more wind, when cruising need to be aware and look for a cove to hide out in.

Overall everything is great in La Paz, Marina de La Paz is best, Marina Cortez second , Palmira okay, Costa Baja where the big boys are. But there are big boys in every Marina this year, very full and many boats anchored in bay, which isn’t bad.

 

[magna 6882]

It would be an interesting read to follow your progress down the coast.

 

[mikehar]

I decided to actually go to La Paz, learn about the town, and look over the marinas prior to making the trip down the coast....
Based on that I reserved a slip for next winter.

I did the same thing a few weeks ago! We reserved a slip (side tie, on the waiting list for a slip) and are super excited about spending next winter there. La Paz seems to be having a moment. I know several people heading down next winter, some of them joining us in CUBAR this year.

 

[AZ2Loop]

Congrats Ksanders. Very excited for you and I don't think you can pick a better place. Exploring around in the Sea of Cortez (both coasts) would be ideal. We spent a fair amount of time in Mexico (not by boat) but are far from experts. Our Spanish (especially my wife's) was pretty strong at one point in our lives and we found as long as we tried almost anyone there was happy to make your acquaintance and was friendly and helpful when needed. In fact they would too often switch to English as a courtesy though we didn't want them to do so. We wanted to communicate more in Spanish and keep getting better. We love the people, the food, the culture, and hope to spend more time there in future years. Please keep posting about your experiences on your journey there and certainly after you get there. I helped move a 32' Island Packet from Mazatlan to La Paz and for my limited cruising life, it was a top 10 experience for sure.

 

[ksanders]

I did the same thing a few weeks ago! We reserved a slip (side tie, on the waiting list for a slip) and are super excited about spending next winter there. La Paz seems to be having a moment. I know several people heading down next winter, some of them joining us in CUBAR this year.

That is exactly I reserved my slip early.

With the harbors nearly full this cruising season, next year will be busier. There is still some hesitancy to travel due to Covid.


For the folks that have not been to La Paz this year....

Right now the rules here are that masks be worn indoors. Outdoors is your choice. I choose to go bare faced outdoors but comply with the rules indoors.
Most people are wearing masks outdoors out of caution.

At the entrance to most buildings is a person reading temperatures, and a sanitation station. At one place they sprayed the bottom of my sandals with disinfectant.

Mexico is behind America in vaccination. I talked to a nice couple that reported they have had a full course of pfitzer vaccine but cannot get a booster yet.

Because of this, if you come to Mexico, please follow their rules regarding masks. We are after all guests in their country and should always remember that.

 

[Montenido]

Kevin, I applaud your plan. I am a longtime cruiser in Mexican waters and agree with your findings so far. I just brought my boat back to La Paz after a year in CA due to covid. A couple of things to consider when clearing in:

First, clear in in Ensenada, staying at Cruiseport Marina. They are inexpensive and will help with the clearing in process for free. The only fuel available in Ensenada is in Marina Coral. However, before being allowed to purchase fuel we were required to have health inspectors visit our boat in Marina Cruiseport. Not a big deal, but we wasted a couple of hours tied up at the fuel dock in Coral before being told that we couldn't buy fuel.

The next fuel stop is in Turtle Bay, where you will pay up to double the normal cost. I have heard of people buying fuel from the pier at Cedros Island for the regular price, so you might try calling them on the radio when you get close.

How much fuel do you carry? My boat has about 700 gallons and I bring an additional 100 gallons in jugs. That is just about enough to get me to La Paz from Ventura, CA. I top up in Ensenada and then get 50-100 gallons in Turtle Bay, and then I am good until La Paz. My fuel burn is about 6.5 gallons at 1400 rpm ( 9+ knots). You are going to love Marina De La Paz! Look me up when you arrive, I am in slip #229. First beer is on me.

Cheers, Bill

 

[ksanders]

Kevin, I applaud your plan. I am a longtime cruiser in Mexican waters and agree with your findings so far. I just brought my boat back to La Paz after a year in CA due to covid. A couple of things to consider when clearing in:

First, clear in in Ensenada, staying at Cruiseport Marina. They are inexpensive and will help with the clearing in process for free. The only fuel available in Ensenada is in Marina Coral. However, before being allowed to purchase fuel we were required to have health inspectors visit our boat in Marina Cruiseport. Not a big deal, but we wasted a couple of hours tied up at the fuel dock in Coral before being told that we couldn't buy fuel.

The next fuel stop is in Turtle Bay, where you will pay up to double the normal cost. I have heard of people buying fuel from the pier at Cedros Island for the regular price, so you might try calling them on the radio when you get close.

How much fuel do you carry? My boat has about 700 gallons and I bring an additional 100 gallons in jugs. That is just about enough to get me to La Paz from Ventura, CA. I top up in Ensenada and then get 50-100 gallons in Turtle Bay, and then I am good until La Paz. My fuel burn is about 6.5 gallons at 1400 rpm ( 9+ knots). You are going to love Marina De La Paz! Look me up when you arrive, I am in slip #229. First beer is on me.

Cheers, Bill

Thanks Bill, I'll stop by in the next few days.

 

[ksanders]

I know it must get boring seeing the same photos of bright La Paz sunrises but having been here a week, that is what defines this place, the sunshine and warm weather.

Yesterday is did rain, and it rained hard. I understand that is very unusual but today is is another beautiful morning.

I'll be honest... I did not plan on being another older man, going solo, living on his boat. That is just how life worked out.

But living on a boat has some advantages, and the biggest one is the ability to move to another town, or country for that matter at a moments notice.

 

[Montenido]

Kevin,
Unfortunately, I am not in La Paz at the moment. Will be there on January 10.

Cheers, Bill

 

[BandB]

I know it must get boring seeing the same photos of bright La Paz sunrises but having been here a week, that is what defines this place, the sunshine and warm weather.

Yesterday is did rain, and it rained hard. I understand that is very unusual but today is is another beautiful morning.

I'll be honest... I did not plan on being another older man, going solo, living on his boat. That is just how life worked out.

But living on a boat has some advantages, and the biggest one is the ability to move to another town, or country for that matter at a moments notice.

Wifey B: La Paz is beautiful. A bit chili right now as I see today's high is 71 and at home we've got 80, but I can live with anything over 70 and sure beats Alaskan temps.

 

[IRENE]

Kevin and other contributors, thank you for the excellent information. Prices of slips and menus are especially appreciated as we transition to the next chapter.

Happy New Year and Safe Travels

 

[ksanders]

Kevin and other contributors, thank you for the excellent information. Prices of slips and menus are especially appreciated as we transition to the next chapter.

Happy New Year and Safe Travels

I just came back from dinner. I tried something I have never even heard of before, and it was wonderful

Here is the menue from the resturant

I had two margaritas, and a wonderful meal for $554 pesos or $26.82

The cool thing is that I am exploring new foods, and a new culture. Met a nice family at dinner and had a great conversation. This is a very friendly place if you take the time to chat with folks.

 

[klee wyck]

I just came back from dinner. I tried something I have never even heard of before, and it was wonderful

Here is the menue from the resturant

I had two margaritas, and a wonderful meal for $554 pesos or $26.82

The cool thing is that I am exploring new foods, and a new culture. Met a nice family at dinner and had a great conversation. This is a very friendly place if you take the time to chat with folks.

About 300 steps from where your boat will be ties up at this time next year!!
Not a bad view either, right?

 

[ksanders]

About 300 steps from where your boat will be ties up at this time next year!!
Not a bad view either, right?

Yes, a wonderful view!

 

[mikehar]

That is exactly I reserved my slip early.

Right now the rules here are that masks be worn indoors. Outdoors is your choice. I choose to go bare faced outdoors but comply with the rules indoors.
Most people are wearing masks outdoors out of caution.

At the entrance to most buildings is a person reading temperatures, and a sanitation station. At one place they sprayed the bottom of my sandals with disinfectant.

It was refreshing to be in a place where masks were not politized. The locals were always wearing masks indoors and in crowded outdoor spaces. That's not a surprise, it makes a lot of sense and it is something they can do for themselves and their families. I never saw them correct any of the less informed (American) visitors for what I assume are cultural reasons. We tried to be respectful and follow their lead on how to act. Generally speaking, the tourists were pretty good in La Paz. It's easy to be respectful in a lovely place with wonderful people!

 

[Alaskaflyer]

It was refreshing to be in a place where masks were not politized. The locals were always wearing masks indoors and in crowded outdoor spaces. That's not a surprise, it makes a lot of sense and it is something they can do for themselves and their families. I never saw them correct any of the less informed (American) visitors for what I assume are cultural reasons. We tried to be respectful and follow their lead on how to act. Generally speaking, the tourists were pretty good in La Paz. It's easy to be respectful in a lovely place with wonderful people!

And the rest are down at Cabo. IME.

Have fun, Kevin. For many years I spent as much time in Baja from Punta Eugenia to over to Muluge and the Bahia Concepcion and then south to your location as I could possibly get away with in the winter, back before wife and kids I look forward to sharing the area with them soon, by boat.

I never got over the novelty of stepping off the dry rattlesnake-rich Sonoran desert and walking with snorkeling gear only a few feet into the water to enter a lush coral ecosystem.

 

[mvweebles]

Kevin (and other Mexico cruisers) : what's your plan for land transportation? Bikes? E-scooter/bike? Taxi? Walk? Rental car? I find an old beater bike is very helpful, but still there are obvious limits.

For some reason, rental cars in Ensenada are 2x-3x to same in Q. Roo (Playa del Carmen), though that was pre-pandemic.

Just curious how you'll crack this nut.

Peter

 

[O C Diver]

When I went to La Paz in 2013 to look at a Willard 40, we went out to dinner at a second story open air (with palm fronds roof) restaurant overlooking the water. I believe it was South of La Paz more or less by itself.

Dinner was a platter of scallop tacos. Half thickness scallops (I believe broiled) on small soft tacos. Another platter had maybe 8 different topping. I would go back to La Paz just to have that again.

Ted

 

[mvweebles]

When I went to La Paz in 2013 to look at a Willard 40, we went out to dinner at a second story open air (with palm fronds roof) restaurant overlooking the water. I believe it was South of La Paz more or less by itself.

Dinner was a platter of scallop tacos. Half thickness scallops (I believe broiled) on small soft tacos. Another platter had maybe 8 different topping. I would go back to La Paz just to have that again.

Ted

Guessing you looked at Aloha. She is back on the market for anyone interested. Now located in Long Beach CA area so easier to access. Recent price-drop to $270k.

https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/2002-willard-marine-40-pilothousetrawler-8083946/

For vittles in Baja, I've developed a ceviche habit - the higher-end craft-beer bars seem to have the best, though have also found some decent open-air loncheria's that are well tended. Current favorite is Aguachile which is thinly sliced raw-shrimp "cooked" in a very spicy lime-juice marinade. Obviously requires very fresh shrimp to avoid being tethered to El Bano (bathroom) for 3-days.

Peter