How often do you change Racor Filters

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smitty477 said:
"Well, in 8 years on my GB 36, I have not changed my Racors (10 micron) even once and never had the vacuum gauge elevate above zero."
A new perfectly clean filter will read above zero - even removing the filter will read above zero.
There remains some resistance in the lines and fittings for fuel flow even with a new filter.
I would start with why you are not seeing zero vacuum.
Click to expand...

My gauge remains pretty much on zero also. (GB 36). The Raycors are below tank / fuel level. I would assume that there is positive pressure on the inlet side that varies based on the fuel level in the tank.
 
Cigatoo said:
My gauge remains pretty much on zero also. (GB 36). The Raycors are below tank / fuel level. I would assume that there is positive pressure on the inlet side that varies based on the fuel level in the tank.
Click to expand...

That would be correct. So the gauges will be much less effective as they will go from zero to plugged filter very quickly. In a perfect world, the engine lift pump, the racor, and the top of the fuel tank would be at the same level. With the tank full and the filter clean, the gauge should read zero. As the fuel level drops, the gauge would read increased vacuum as the lift pump has to lift the fuel up to the pump. With a dirty filter the gauge would read higher as the lift pump would have to suck harder to pull fuel through the filter. A simple spreadsheet would tell you based of fuel level, what vacuum to expect. Vacuum above that level reflects the fouling of the filter.

While my Racors aren't at the optimal level, I can see a difference between full and near empty on the vacuum gauge with a clean filter.

Ted
 
Cigatoo said:
My gauge remains pretty much on zero also. (GB 36). The Raycors are below tank / fuel level. I would assume that there is positive pressure on the inlet side that varies based on the fuel level in the tank.
Click to expand...

I have not seen that condition - I do use 2" vac gages +- 2% accuracy with snubbers so they are fairly accurate and they are fairly sensitive - these readings will not be static but be recorded at a full cruise rpm to determine filter condition.
I have installed maybe 1-1/2 dozen of these over the years.
 
Racor 500 filter changing

Hi

getting ready to go south, today changed engine oil and filter.

Tomorrow need to decide about the Racors.

Have a small Westerbeke B30 25HP,as an auxiliary to my 30 sailboat.

Have 2 Racors 500, in case of failure can switch to the other Racor.

Every year I ponder if I need to change the cartridges (10 microns).
2 years ago did, was perfectly clean but changed it anyway.

Vacuum gauge has not indicated any buildup, hovers on the 4 or 5 mark.
Bowl looks clean, no sediment, no water or crud.

My concern to change them is thinking maybe the material degrades? over time?

But cannot find any evidence on Google

=============================================
Looking at this thread found these comments.

==============================================

"This thread made me feel guilty about that though so I looked back in my maintenance log to see when I last changed them. It was August of 2014.
So I changed them tonight. After 5 1/2 years, 750 hours, they were super clean and there was no grime on the paper towels I used to wipe out the inside of the housings."

"
Well, in 8 years on my GB 36, I have not changed my Racors (10 micron) even once and never had the vacuum gauge elevate above zero."
A new perfectly clean filter will read above zero - even removing the filter will read above zero.
There remains some resistance in the lines and fittings for fuel flow even with a new filter."



"While I'm an advocate of condition based maintenance, i.e. changing filters when they need it rather than based on the calendar, 7 years is a long time to go without replacing a filter. Manufacturers say annually, and I've seen filters go a very long time without being replaced and have not seen deterioration, but I think I'd cap that at 3 years. Again engine and filter manufacturers say annually, but they do sell filters."


"Well, in 8 years on my GB 36, I have not changed my Racors (10 micron) even once and never had the vacuum gauge elevate above zero. I change"


"You should rely on the vacuum gauge to drive replacement, that's the ultimate arbiter for filter condition. If you need to change filters before using 1,000 gal of fuel, that's a sign of a tank contamination problem. Hours are a less reliable yard stick as it's really a function of how much fuel has passed through the filter, which is different at different rpm."


"If you have a polishing system it's conceivable you'd never need to change a filter, but of course you should not leave them in place indefinitely. Having said that, and having changed a lot of filters, I've never seen one deteriorate even those that haven't been changed for years. Every time you change a filter you reduce its efficiency, as a filter traps some dirt, it becomes more efficient. I'm not suggesting anyone violate Racor or engine manufacturer instructions, just pointing out relevant details"
===============================================


If I am reading these comments right, it seems those filters changed after years of working DID NOT show any signs of damage, as the visual inspection and vacuum gauges corroborated? this?
Question marks as may be, not scientific, but that is the best we can do.

I am inclined to leave them alone, if the filtering material does not degrade, seems a waste of time, work and a good filter.

Appreciate your time and comments.
 
I am somewhat embarrassed to say that I have let them go for over 4 years with no indications of any problems.
 
Last time I bought Racor 1000 elements, I believe they were around $10. The Racor 500 for the generator was somewhat less. Considering the cost of cruising and fuel, the cost is near absolute zero in the relative scheme of things. Less than 15 minutes for peace of mind.

Probably the more important question is when did you change the secondary filter on the engine. Most secondaries are 2 micron or less. So the particles that will plug your secondary can pass through the Racor unless they per chance stick to the Racor element. A clogging second won't show increased vacuum on your Racor gauge.

Ted
 
O C Diver said:
Last time I bought Racor 1000 elements, I believe they were around $10. The Racor 500 for the generator was somewhat less. Considering the cost of cruising and fuel, the cost is near absolute zero in the relative scheme of things. Less than 15 minutes for peace of mind.

Probably the more important question is when did you change the secondary filter on the engine. Most secondaries are 2 micron or less. So the particles that will plug your secondary can pass through the Racor unless they per chance stick to the Racor element. A clogging second won't show increased vacuum on your Racor gauge.

Ted
Click to expand...

excellent point, need to go over the specs, but believe Westerbeke uses a

"The on engine secondary filter is rated at 15-17 micron (source Joe J. & Bob B. Westerbeke engineers). Westerbeke does not want to see a primary filter any smaller than 10 micron before the secondary filter."

,I know when installed the Racors they are finer than the secondary and remember in theory they will not clog. because the Racors filter smaller particles.
will check tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
Filters do particle removal and water separation. Both figure in time to replace.
 
O C Diver said:
.

Probably the more important question is when did you change the secondary filter on the engine. Most secondaries are 2 micron or less. So the particles that will plug your secondary can pass through the Racor unless they per chance stick to the Racor element. A clogging second won't show increased vacuum on your Racor gauge.

Ted
Click to expand...


On our nta855m, twin on engine FS1212 are a 20 micron element.
The primary racor 2020 are 10 micron

https://sctegparts.com.au/FS1212-Fleetguard-Fuel-Water-Separator-Filter-3308638-57138554-36849

It's been 6 years since we changed the 2020's
Every year I have a look and see no evidence of any crud, so they stay in.
And as they are finer than the on engine filter, I can't see how they would see anything either.

We get our fair share of rough water and rolling, have never seen anything when taking 3 monthly fuel samples from the crud sump in bottom of tank.
No additives have ever been used
 
I believe in regular changes, especially if the boat is left unused for weeks/months, and regular checking of the vacuum gauge to build up a picture.

Sudden blockage could rupture the filter membrane.

The gauge does not indicate an intact working filter. It's an indicator of the amount of vacuum - not the state of the filter.

Best
Garry
 
If you are going upgrade your Racon system, get the gauges with the tattle tails.
Install the system that detect water in the bowl.
Now per the generator…… seldom have I seen 2 bowl system but if it makes you feel more secure, do it.
I have a polishing system. I have have polished the fuel at least twice in the last 2 years and use additives every couple of years or when I fill up.
 
I don’t think I’d ever let them go for more than 2 years, even if i haven’t hit the hr change interval. Basic maintenance goes a long way to ensuring trouble f tee operation while underway, and I would much rather change filters comfortably and at my convenience dockside or at anchor rather than while broken down in a seaway.
 
Read the Parker literature (reading manufacturer instructions aren't always the best...but it does provide some good info).

Last time I looked, they recommended a yearly or so change because the water separation chemical (Aquabloc) the filter is impregnated with has a lifespan after taken out of the protective plastic they are sold in.
 
Hi,

I have asked about this subject Parker, correspondence below.

My question:

Type in your question here: Hey, I live here in Finland and diesel is very clean and I am now driven more than 600 hours 3 years Racor 75/900 10mic filter and the filter is still visually clean and vacuum gauge needle moves only just a little bit so I have not changed the filter and it all works very same fleet guard 2mic last filter for my Cummins QSB. Do you see a technical problem / risk of using your filter for several years if the filter remains clean? Regards xxx xxx


And answers

No, there is no problem. I have a diesel pick up and I have been running the same filter for 3 years now. I am going to change this year just because.

Best regards

Xxxx xxxxx

Racor Products Technical Service

Engine Mobile Original Equipment Division
3400 Finch Road
Modesto, CA 95354
209-521-7860

I haven't stressed about it anymore and I've changed the filters about 1500 hours ago / 2018 and they look clean and the gauges don't move much, maybe I'll change them now for season -23 just in because ?

NBs
 
Not sure I would compare motor vehicle filters demands and vessel filter demands.
 
psneeld said:
Not sure I would compare motor vehicle filters demands and vessel filter demands.
Click to expand...


In terms of clogging risk, etc. they're not comparable. But in terms of whether the filter starts degrading enough to be of concern while submerged in fuel, it should be similar (assuming similar filter media).
 
I. Hange my filters when the vacuum gauges tell me when they need to be changed. Senseless, in my opinion, to change perfectly good filters on a time schedule. No gauges, different story.
 
psneeld said:
Not sure I would compare motor vehicle filters demands and vessel filter demands.
Click to expand...
Please explain. Do motor vehicles use different diesel fuel? You do know that marinas get their fuel from the same places that filling stations do. It's all the same stuff delivered by the same trucks from the same fuel racks.
 
catalinajack said:
Please explain. Do motor vehicles use different diesel fuel? You do know that marinas get their fuel from the same places that filling stations do. It's all the same stuff delivered by the same trucks from the same fuel racks.
Click to expand...
Think about it, you will get it. Always better learning when you figure it out yourself. :thumb:

Experience in a wide variety of boating helps too. Even reading back though fuel issues right here in this forum describes what a marine fuel tank can get like in no time because of many factors that may or may not be present in vehicle tanks.
 
Last edited:
If a major component of a filter is an agent that blocks the passage of water through it to prevent corrosion in engine parts.....

And that chemical component has a different life expectancy than just the particulate blocking which in some cases could be substantially different.....

Then when is a good time to change that filter? Time? Vacuum? Manufacturer suggested?
 
psneeld said:
If a major component of a filter is an agent that blocks the passage of water through it to prevent corrosion in engine parts.....

And that chemical component has a different life expectancy than just the particulate blocking which in some cases could be substantially different.....

Then when is a good time to change that filter? Time? Vacuum? Manufacturer suggested?
Click to expand...


Hi,

I appreciate your idea, but acuablock® is a brand of Parker Raco with possibly fancy phrases.

Their turbine filter housing is made to separate water, right?

I have a commonrail machine, and a lot of hours, no sign of nozzle corrosion or anything.

How can those who don't have aquvablock® filters even go boating, if this is the point for safety on cruises?

This is just my point of view and I value changing filters at any time.

NBs
 
!!!

Well, went to the boat and checked filters

The Westerbeke secondary in the engine is (#030200 – WESTERBEKE – FUEL FILTER)

nowhere to find how many microns are, different searches and returned zilch.
Only reference published 16 to 18 microns?

Racor 500 series installed 4 years ago, 2 microns filters.

changed one in perfect condition about 100 hrs ago.

Vacuum gauge at about 3, with engine idle and under load, no changes.
2 microns IS NOT RECOMMENDED because MAY restrict flow.

Lucky me, the engine does not know it!!!!

Ordered 2 filters elements from Amazon today, 10 microns, next time will replace the 2 microns with the 10.

For the time, going to leave well alone.

I had to motor into heavy weather offshore as well as against strong tide in the ICW, do not recall any drop in RPM and fuel consumption remain same, .7 gallons hour at cruising speed, anywhere between 2100 and 2500. Speed overground varies depending on tide and wind.
 
North Baltic sea said:
Hi,

I appreciate your idea, but acuablock® is a brand of Parker Raco with possibly fancy phrases.

Their turbine filter housing is made to separate water, right?

I have a commonrail machine, and a lot of hours, no sign of nozzle corrosion or anything.

How can those who don't have aquvablock® filters even go boating, if this is the point for safety on cruises?

This is just my point of view and I value changing filters at any time.

NBs
Click to expand...

This was my understanding that the cartridge filters many use here are the ones that also use the possibly but not likely turbine feature as the flow is often too low for it to work well....

Tried to attach a screen shot from a Racor brochure where it states all the 30/10/2 micron filter elements for the marine turbine filter housings use aquabloc media. That's what that unusual smell is when you open the package.
 

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psneeld said:
Think about it, you will get it. Always better learning when you figure it out yourself. :thumb:



Experience in a wide variety of boating helps too. Even reading back though fuel issues right here in this forum describes what a marine fuel tank can get like in no time because of many factors that may or may not be present in vehicle tanks.
Click to expand...

Really? I have thought about it, but I must be a dumbass cuz I don't know the answer. I defer to your your infinite wisdom. And, yes, I am aware that sometimes, some boats will go thru filters more frequently, but that has absolutely nothing to do with when and how often to change filters, if one has vacuum guages. Get it oh wise one?
 
Last edited:
psneeld said:
If a major component of a filter is an agent that blocks the passage of water through it to prevent corrosion in engine parts.....

And that chemical component has a different life expectancy than just the particulate blocking which in some cases could be substantially different.....

Then when is a good time to change that filter? Time? Vacuum? Manufacturer suggested?
Click to expand...

Apparently you are not aware makers of filters other than Racor supply filters with filter media that block water just as effectively as Racor (Donaldson, Baldwin, Fleetguard). On my diesel pickup I have two big filters, both water blocking. Are you asserting that the water blocking properties of these filters have a useful life in hours or time? If so, perhaps you could share Racor's opinion on this. I have looked, extensively, and can find no info to that effect.
 
catalinajack said:
Apparently you are not aware makers of filters other than Racor supply filters with filter media that block water just as effectively as Racor (Donaldson, Baldwin, Fleetguard). On my diesel pickup I have two big filters, both water blocking. Are you asserting that the water blocking properties of these filters have a useful life in hours or time? If so, perhaps you could share Racor's opinion on this. I have looked, extensively, and can find no info to that effect.
Click to expand...

I am aware of a lot of things TF seems to skip over....my posts often reflect that....so look harder. if you really don't believe me.....

The OP and Davil1 did discuss Racor is their systems so all those other filters didn't enter my fine tuned mind to answer the guys question.

Somewhere in Parker's literature they do discuss aquabloc longevity...but here is their general guidance on the smaller turbine filters...

"Filter replacement frequency
is determined by the
contamination level of the fuel.
Replace filter every 10,000
miles (16,000 km), every 500
hours, every other oil change,
when vacuum gauge (optional)
reads between 7 to 10 inches
of mercury (inHg), if power
loss is noticed, or annually,
whichever occurs first"
 
Last edited:
psneeld said:
I am aware of a lot of things TF seems to skip over....my posts often reflect that....so look harder. if you really don't believe me.....

The OP and Davil1 did discuss Racor is their systems so all those other filters didn't enter my fine tuned mind to answer the guys question.

Somewhere in Parker's literature they do discuss aquabloc longevity...but here is their general guidance on the smaller turbine filters...

"Filter replacement frequency
is determined by the
contamination level of the fuel.
Replace filter every 10,000
miles (16,000 km), every 500
hours, every other oil change,
when vacuum gauge (optional)
reads between 7 to 10 inches
of mercury (inHg), if power
loss is noticed, or annually,
whichever occurs first"
Click to expand...
So, a boat used just 50 hours in a year must change filters? Just wondering, how often do you see water in your filter bowls.
 
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