HeadedToTexas
Guru
Roger that. I appreciate the voice of experience. Thanks Ricky.
Dinghy Lifting Straps
- Thread starter Pgitug
- Start date
The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
RickyD
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My dock mate did a beautiful job splicing his dock lines. He helped me splice one of mine. A used, 3/4" line that was incredibly difficult. But it got me interested. I bought the tools and started fooling around with other lines. Then I needed to cut the hook off of my Dyneema dinghy cable. I used the thinnest needle to repair which was still a problem so I bought the D-Splicer and it made the job easy. I like easy.
Cruzer
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We're late to the conversation but for anyone looking for a prefab solution, we've been very pleased with our adjustable Wichard Inflatable Boat/Dinghy Lifting Sling. It has performed flawlessly for us in hoisting our 800# Whaler and can easily be adjusted and marked to be used for multiple items.
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=108436#
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=108436#
HeadedToTexas
Guru
That Wichard Lifting Sling is sharp. The prospect of a commercial solution does eliminate the uncertainty of one's own splices. Guessing confidence builds quickly in the world of Dyneema splicing, but I'm not there yet. Still gun-shy after nearly losing the dinghy to a failed carabiner in heavy seas on Lake Michigan.
How do you like the snap shackles for connecting to the Whaler's lifting eyes? A guy with a lot of commercial experience recommended the pelican hook, but both have abrasion points that worry me. Perhaps solid rings would be better than eye splice thimbles at resisting abrasion at the hook?
How do you like the snap shackles for connecting to the Whaler's lifting eyes? A guy with a lot of commercial experience recommended the pelican hook, but both have abrasion points that worry me. Perhaps solid rings would be better than eye splice thimbles at resisting abrasion at the hook?
rgano
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Load Testing
I have professional experience managing and directing various crane systems, and we had to have records of the weight tests, conducted by professionals with certified weights, with stamped metal tags on the cranes signifying current certification. These tests were specified to occur at various intervals of years, depending on the assigned task for the crane. The weights used reflected the percent safety factor involved, some systems having a 5 to 1 while others might be 2 to 1, meaning the system could lift and support 5X, 4X, 3X, or 2X their rated capacity for x minutes. This was not a breaking strength capacity test of anything.
In our boating, there seems to be no such service. We accept that a certain cable or sling has XXX "capacity," but what does that number really mean? Is it breaking strength, working strength, and if working strength what was the BS so you can work out the safety factor for yourself.
I would not want to lift a dinghy without a 3 to 1 safety factor on the rig based on the working strength (including every single bit of the rig), not breaking strength, of the rig. That should account for a fair amount of shock loading and aging for at least a few years
But you still need a weight test if you want to be sure. One member mentions hoping into the dink while suspended to test it out. Maybe not the safest idea, but a start. My suggestion is that if the calculated weight of dink and motor and gear is 200 pounds, put it in the water or on the pier, and pour another 400 pounds of stuff (preferably NOT people) or liquid into it before lifting it an inch ir two clear for five minutes, or barrow a scale and attach it to a line around your hull or to a pier and generate the 600 pound lift that way.
Now you are certain the hoist is good; otherwise, you are hoping.
I witnessed accidents in lifting, and because the cranes were certified, they were not the cause. Rather weaknesses in things like an eye pad on a large engine caused the problem. And because of stringent safety rules AND vigilant safety officers, nobody was injured.
Witnessing a twined set of Detroit 871s and attached transmission literally bouncing around after hitting bottom will make a believer out of you every time. Same thing in regard to half inch thick wire cable snapping across decks looking for legs to slice off. You are your own safety officer, and the fact that we do not seem to hear about people being hurt by failed rigging and falling dinks probably means y'all are doin' good.
I have professional experience managing and directing various crane systems, and we had to have records of the weight tests, conducted by professionals with certified weights, with stamped metal tags on the cranes signifying current certification. These tests were specified to occur at various intervals of years, depending on the assigned task for the crane. The weights used reflected the percent safety factor involved, some systems having a 5 to 1 while others might be 2 to 1, meaning the system could lift and support 5X, 4X, 3X, or 2X their rated capacity for x minutes. This was not a breaking strength capacity test of anything.
In our boating, there seems to be no such service. We accept that a certain cable or sling has XXX "capacity," but what does that number really mean? Is it breaking strength, working strength, and if working strength what was the BS so you can work out the safety factor for yourself.
I would not want to lift a dinghy without a 3 to 1 safety factor on the rig based on the working strength (including every single bit of the rig), not breaking strength, of the rig. That should account for a fair amount of shock loading and aging for at least a few years
But you still need a weight test if you want to be sure. One member mentions hoping into the dink while suspended to test it out. Maybe not the safest idea, but a start. My suggestion is that if the calculated weight of dink and motor and gear is 200 pounds, put it in the water or on the pier, and pour another 400 pounds of stuff (preferably NOT people) or liquid into it before lifting it an inch ir two clear for five minutes, or barrow a scale and attach it to a line around your hull or to a pier and generate the 600 pound lift that way.
Now you are certain the hoist is good; otherwise, you are hoping.
I witnessed accidents in lifting, and because the cranes were certified, they were not the cause. Rather weaknesses in things like an eye pad on a large engine caused the problem. And because of stringent safety rules AND vigilant safety officers, nobody was injured.
Witnessing a twined set of Detroit 871s and attached transmission literally bouncing around after hitting bottom will make a believer out of you every time. Same thing in regard to half inch thick wire cable snapping across decks looking for legs to slice off. You are your own safety officer, and the fact that we do not seem to hear about people being hurt by failed rigging and falling dinks probably means y'all are doin' good.
Cruzer
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2017
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- USA
- Vessel Name
- OLOH
- Vessel Make
- 60 Jefferson Marquessa Motor Yacht
We like them very much and have had zero issues. Prior to the Whaler we were lifting a RIB with traditional lift eyes and it also worked perfectly. Our experience, of course, but thus far we have been very pleased. We stow the strap after each use and three years on it looks and functions as new with no obvious signs of wear.
HeadedToTexas
Guru
I like the snap in action of the snap shackle. The spring loaded pin would seem to stay in place better than the link that holds the pelican's mouth closed. Hmmm.
HeadedToTexas
Guru
I saw that episode. Figured the Whaler would have weighed a lot more!
