"Roll Call" For Gourmet Cruisers and Island Gypsies

[Andy G]

Tomorrow our club is hosting our annual wooden boat festival which has a terrific Halvorsen presence, being quite close to the old Halvorson Bobbin Head yard.I will take the camera with me and once I have figured how to do it will post the pics for all to see. I probably should start a new post, as I just realised this is an IG post.

[Codger2]

Andy:
No need to start a new thread as all the "Halvo" owners on this site gather here. We all look forward to your photos and anything that has a "Halvo" in it is a good thing.

[Peter B]

Viking wrote:

Just checking in with my first post as a new member as of 5 min. ago.
I cruise an Island Gypsy 32 Sedan. Have owned many (too embarrassed to count) boats. The last 3 have been trawlers and I'm probably stuck on them for life. Love my IG but need to paint her house. Any suggestions?

Hi there Viking, saying welcome would be a bit presumptuous from me, because I am an interloper on here, being a CHB owner, (Clipper here is Oz), but I also love IGs and have friends with them, so I sneak in here from time to time, and it sounds like I am just in time.*
I just had my Clipper 34' 2 pack sprayed by an expert, (great job - very pleased), and then I painted the whole deckhouse, gunwhale caps and inside the gunwhales myself, and I would now have to say DON'T USE BRIGHTSIDE.*
I have been disapointed in how long it lasts, and a chandlery friend of mine as good as admitted recently that International (Interlux to US), have in a way conceded it is not a good marine paint (by essentially replacing it with Toplac), as it does not like water.* I can confirm pooled water causes it to fragment and peel quite early - proved it in my flybridge, where water gathers at times and the Brightside peeled in no time.* I also painted the bottom of my inflatable with it, as it is never immersed long, but the same thing happened.
This time I used Toplac, and just brushed it, and it went on well, and the finished job looks terrific - almost as good as sprayed, but easier for the amateur.* I hate using rollers because of fear of tripping over the damn tray and spraying paint everywhere, but for large uncomplicated areas, roll and tip is the way to go, I'm sure.* Hope this helps.

*

[Codger2]

dwhatty wrote:Speaking of Halvorsens, what's happened with Boogiediver? He hasn't posted for quite awhile.

I had a PM from him the other day and all is well in Hong Kong. He's been terribly
busy with work and is also exploring the ("sailing world.) I know, I know, but he
insists that he is in good health, both mentally and physically.

*

[Nomad Willy]

Peter,
It's hard to believe that one of the most prolific yacht finishes in the world is no good.
I've had a problem when using Brightside on Willy's cabin (the buff) but think it was a problem w an undercoat (Glove-it(an epoxy)). Is Toplac oleo-resinous or urethane or?
I painted my 16' aluminum skiff this spring w Brightside and all went very well. Lots of primer coats though. I think if you use the primers as instructed (read the can) you and all should do very well w Brightside. Don't like the colors very well though.

-- Edited by nomadwilly on Friday 5th of November 2010 01:00:49 PM

[Marin]

Peter B wrote:DON'T USE BRIGHTSIDE.*
I have been disapointed in how long it lasts, and a chandlery friend of mine as good as admitted recently that International (Interlux to US), have in a way conceded it is not a good marine paint (by essentially replacing it with Toplac), as it does not like water.

*

This is the only time I have ever heard anyone complain about Brighside in the twelve years we've been using it.* It is the paint of choice by most people on the Grand Banks owners forum (wood and glass).* In fact, according to the GB forum, Toplac was recently discontinued.

Interlux's own webside suggests Brightside for applications where toughness is needed.* Toplac was recommended for low-wear areas where easier application was needed.* But Toplac is no more, apparently.

I don't know where this "Brightside doesn't like water" silliness comes from.* While we have a fiberglass boat all the window frames, exterior doors and hatches, and mast and boom are wood.* All have been painted with Brightside (except for a few where I used Toplac which didn't hold up as long) and the boat sits outside year round in the PNW where it rains all the time.* Even the first window frame I overhauled some eleven years ago and painted with two coats of Brightside over primer pretty much looks today the same as it did when I finished painting it.* We even used it on our red boot stripe and it has held up perfectly.

Whoever is telling you that Brightside is a bad paint has either never used it or has no clue how to apply paint.

[RT Firefly]

Hiya,
** I've used Brtightside in the past and it has chaulked badly with very little sun exposure.* I second Peter B's opinion.* I would use it inside, but never again outside.

-- Edited by RT Firefly on Friday 5th of November 2010 04:17:16 PM

[Nomad Willy]

Almost ALLLLL the problems w coating (painting) is w the prep.

Don't blame the coating

Look closer

Keep the surface clean (even body oil)

Use the primer and/or follow the directions. If they say sand between coats** ..sand ect.

The primer for Brightside is Pre-kote* ..use it. It brushes beautifully.

And if you don't need gloss it may do as a top coat.

[RT Firefly]

Hiya,
** So my prep for inside differed from my prep for outside?* I don't*think so.* I stick by my comment-OK inside, never outside.

[Nomad Willy]

If it makes you feel beter

[Carey]

nomadwilly wrote:

If it makes you feel beter

Like some others here, I have used Brightside outside with no regrets. Ten years and counting.

*

[Rene]

Hello to all:
I've been following this conversation, since I need to paint my cabin too.* I want to ask you, if any of you has tried the two-part product* named Bristol Finish? I'm thinking of using in the the outside teak.**It will be the*first time I paint this part of the boat so any feedback will be very appreciated.

[Nomad Willy]

Rene,
It's reported to be a great product but I've never used it as it has rather fussy application
issues. Marin Faure has used it for some time and likes it. One of the biggest differences in clear furnishes is the hardness and thickness of the film. Looking at your avitar it looks like Bristol now has colors too. There's lots of finishes to choose from. Lots of fishermen use house paint and lots of people think fishermen know everything. And there's everything in between. Preparation is more important that what you use.

[Marin]

Rene wrote:

I want to ask you, if any of you has tried the two-part product* named Bristol Finish?

As Eric said, we've been using Bristol on our boat since my wife read about it some ten or eleven years ago. It's hellaciously expensive, it's a bit tricky to apply, particularly to vertical surfaces, the catalyst has a relatively short shelf life once you open the jar, and we won't use anything else ever.* At least not in this climate.

However...... it is not a magic bullet.* Lilke varnish, it will discolor and lift if moisture gets under it.* So joints in the wood and the bedding of trim need to be done properly.* The one change we have made recently when working with bare wood is to first put a couple of coats of CPES on the wood and then apply Bristol, preferably eight to ten coats if the weather lets us get that many on. But even if we don't the CPES makes the finish "cling" a lot better and a lot longer.

I've met people who have tried Bristol and not liked it.* From what they say it sounds more like they had trouble with its application, not its appearance or longevity.* It is very thin--- like diesel fuel--- and if you use too much, particularly on a vertical or near vertical surface, it can sag.

Our experience with it has only been in the PNW.* I have no idea how it does in hotter, sunnier climates.* However, Bob Lowe, the owner of Dreamer that is described in the "A Boat for Marin" thread that Eric started in the "general" forum, switched to Bristol a number of years ago (he's the one I learned the CPES trick from) and he had the boat in Mexico for a long time.* He thinks Bristol is terrific. * But..... Dreamer is as near to being perfect as a boat can be, so he wasn't fighting old trim bedding and worn out joint sealant like we are on our boat.

*

[Codger2]

I've tried Bristol twice and failed both times. Once by me and once by a pro yacht finisher. We both concluded that the product is too "temperamental" to guarantee a great finish all the time.


-- Edited by SeaHorse II on Saturday 6th of November 2010 02:59:16 PM

[Marin]

SeaHorse II wrote:

We both concluded that the product is too "temperamental" to guarantee a great finish all the time.

It's not tempermental at all.* We've found it to be totally consistent in the eleven years or so we've been using it.* Professional or not, we've found that people who've had problems with it didn't figure out or understand it's application characteristics.* In other words, operator error.* And it's UV and weather resistance is way better than anything else out there other than paint.

*

[Codger2]

Marin wrote:It's not tempermental at all.......** Professional or not, we've found that people who've had problems with it didn't figure out or understand it's application characteristics.* In other words, operator error.*

WOW!* YOU SOUND LIKE OBAMA!*

I'M NOT THE ONLY ONE IN MY MARINA THAT HAS HAD PROBLEMS WITH BRISTOL, AND YOU'RE
RIGHT, WE COULDN'T FIGURE OUT HOW TO MAKE IT WORK. (NOT A TRAIT THAT I WOULD WANT IN
ANY OF MY PRODUCTS.) MY CHOICE IS EPIPHANE....GOES ON EASY EVERY TIME AND LOOKS GREAT!* (EVERY TIME)





-- Edited by SeaHorse II on Sunday 7th of November 2010 09:56:35 AM

[Nomad Willy]

If you want a simple and easy to deal with varnish try McCloskey's Spar Varnish. Or find (if you can) a varnish using tung oil and Phenolic resin exclusively. They are no longer required to list the ingredients of the contents of the can. I think Interlux Schooner is such a product as is McCloskey's Spar. The satin varieties are of an inferior quality.
Epithane is probably a urethane product as "thane" is in it's name. Don't know.
McCloskey's is a very durable and UV resistant coating but is quite soft. One probably would'nt want it on a cap rail where people board the boat. One could use a harder finish for that spot MC for the rest. Perhaps the Epithane would work for high abrasive spots??

[Peter B]

I find Marin's post perplexing, as over here in Oz, Toplac has just been launched as 'new' and it was a very experienced chandlery guy who has been in the trade for years who told me re the concerns over Brightside. Are you sure about that Marin....? I have used it for years as well, and like Firefly says, even with good prep, if exposed to significant dampness it crazes and lifts, and it was my reporting of this to the chandlery guy which brought forth his comments. He even cited a case where a vessel painted on the topsides with it was sailed overseas, and the weather was such the yacht was heeled on the same tack for days, and when they arrived, most of the paint on the side decks on that side was cactus...
I find it hard to believe you have had Toplac out long, as it is new here, and our Internationl products are the same as your Interux as far as I know. They were all products basically taken over from the NZ company Epiglass, but maybe the parent company Interlux/International had a former product called Toplac?
Here it is being promoted as new, and having double the UV resistance to other similar products.
https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_i...AbsolutePage=1

[Andy G]

Here are a few pictures of some old Halvorsens and other wooden boats taken at our recent wooden boat day. Unfotunately the best interior shots were on a faulty memory stick which is a real pity as one boat in particular was simply amazing. Anyway enjoy .