Uniflite Engine Replacement

[Adriah]

Hello everyone,

My fiancé and I are first-time boat buyers. We were under contract with a 1972 36 Uniflite. It was a cosmetic fixer upper for sure but we are both comfortable with that sort of work.

It was originally listed for $12,500, we offered $9,000 contingent we liked what the survey said and it was accepted.

The surveyor found that though the hull was solid, nearly everything else on the boat needed some level of attention. He valued the boat at $3,350, we offered to match the value, but the seller didn’t want to go lower than $8,500 so we walked away because it didn’t seem wise to start in the negative.

Our biggest concern was that the starboard engine is currently taken apart and the block is cracked so it’d need a whole new engine. Would we then have to replace the port even though it runs fine? Is it possible that the boat would never run or is buying two new engines a guarantee?

 

[mvweebles]

Sounds like you dodged a bullet on this one Adriah - you're lucky the seller rejected your lowered offer.

Engine, gear, shaft, tanks, struts, the list of ways an engine replacement project can blossom and expand is endless.

To answer your question - would it be wise to replace the port engine? Unless they are high hour engines, then no need. Depends on why the stbd engine blew. Usually it's a cooling related failure such as mixing elbow or broken water pump shaft.

Better luck on your next one. I know it's hard to believe, but even with sweat equity valued at $0/hr, it's usually difficult to do well with a fixer upper. If you can afford the initial cost, getting something in good mechanical and structural shape but needs cosmetics is usually a better use of capital.

Peter

 

[ranger58sb]

My guess is a totally re-habbed boat that started at $8500 -- with two new (modern) engines and gears if necessary -- could work very well...

But it'd probably only be worth about $10K after doing all the work, including the new engines.

(I might be exaggerating a tad, but maybe not...)

There's a lot to be said for a boat that's been totally restored, though. Depends on all the other costs. Could be it needs $20-30K of other work, too...

-Chris

 

[Chrisjs]

Fiberglass hulls last forever. Unfortunately everything else does not. Getting rid of a "dead" hull can be a costly proposition unless you just leave it along the ICW!! The Seller might have as well given you the hull for free!! On the other hand, he most likely did you a favor!!

 

[Portage_Bay]

Adriah,

As you continue your search for a good used boat I have a rule of thumb I've developed over a life time of working on boats. Whatever the cost of "it" is sitting on a pallet next to the boat, double that cost before "it" is in and running. Of course it's not a perfect rule, it will vary greatly with the complexity of the installation, how meticulous you are with all the related work and how much of the work you can do yourself. But it's good for a first rough guess on the costs to do something like replace an engine.

A somewhat related rule is "All you gotta do is...." When I hear that, even when it comes out of my mouth, what it means to me is "They (I) have no idea what's involved" And then there is shorthand for allyougottadois. "Just..."

 

[Pete Meisinger]

That boat has NO Value. You did right in walking away, even if you are recontacted by the seller (you will be) don't buy it. In fact even if offered for free, walk!

Just one new engine will be around $20,000 (diesel). If it is a gasser, significantly cheaper, probably around $5,000. If it is a diesel you only need to replace the one bad engine. However, if it is a gasser, you will probably have to replace both, if not right away, then soon. They just don't last that long.

A 1972 Uniflite will only be worth about $15,000, no matter how nice you make it. The economics just don't make sense.

pete

 

[tiltrider1]

The boat is a total project. How do I know? If the seller kept the boat in top shape, the engine would have already been repaired. Secondly, we are talking about a 40+ year old boat. Few 40+ year old boats are not projects and those sell very quickly.

 

[Comodave]

Don’t even think about doing any more negotiating on this “boat”. This is truly the famous hole in the water that you throw money into, and never get it back. It would start with one engine, then maybe, likely, the other engine, then the rotted decks and stringers, then the electrical system. Endless. The cheapest boats are sometimes the most expensive ones. And if you are not an experienced DIY boater, then you pay someone $100 per hour for labor. A lot of us do our own work but that has been learned over many years of boat maintenance. Keep looking.

 

[boatpoker]

Hello everyone,

My fiancé and I are first-time boat buyers.

Here, this may save you some money ...

Marine Survey 101, pre-survey inspection

 

[FF]

"Fiberglass hulls last forever."

Not really , Some few GRP hulls can last almost forever ,but not many.

The problem is as GRP ages it gets stiffer and stiffer , and can flex less , think of the cracks in many outside stairs.

IF the GRP was created stiff enough that the GRP never flexes it is good for a long time.

If it moves or wiggles ," forever" comes way sooner.

GRP is usually strong enough , bur seldom stiff enough.

 

[sbman]

Hello everyone,

My fiancé and I are first-time boat buyers. We were under contract with a 1972 36 Uniflite. It was a cosmetic fixer upper for sure but we are both comfortable with that sort of work.

It was originally listed for $12,500, we offered $9,000 contingent we liked what the survey said and it was accepted.

The surveyor found that though the hull was solid, nearly everything else on the boat needed some level of attention. He valued the boat at $3,350, we offered to match the value, but the seller didn’t want to go lower than $8,500 so we walked away because it didn’t seem wise to start in the negative.

Our biggest concern was that the starboard engine is currently taken apart and the block is cracked so it’d need a whole new engine. Would we then have to replace the port even though it runs fine? Is it possible that the boat would never run or is buying two new engines a guarantee?

You can look at my refit thread to see what sort of work you'd be getting into. I started about 3 years ago and I work on it evenings/weekends. If I had posted about it here before starting I would have been (wisely) told to run away. The thread I created doesn't cover even 1/10th of what I've done so far.

https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s25/uniflite-42-double-cabin-refit-49395.html

Hundreds of hours of labor, tons of expensive components to purchase, it's a big project if you want to DIY it. If you enjoy a project, then make sure you find a place that you can work on before you buy it, expect it to take much longer than you expect. Expect it to be difficult to find anyone to work on it but yourself, finding skilled labor to help out on the difficult parts is not easy. You'll need it on the hard for the repower work. Finding a yard that will let you work on it can be very hard to find. There are none in many areas.

I would expect the port engine to have significant issues as well, as will the running gear (drive shaft, prop, cutless bearings, stuffing boxes, etc...).

Take a look at your surveyors report and circle every item that is related to running the boat and/or keeping it afloat. Assume everything circled needs to be replaced, then look up prices for those parts and start adding it up. Once that's added up, double the price of the parts to estimate the cost for installing them, even if you plan to DIY because you'll need tons of ancillary parts (fittings, wires, tools) and often professional help (a crane to lift an engine) and you'll have to pay yard rent the whole time you work on it. You'll also find more stuff that needs replaced each time you start to replace an item on the list.

 

[sbman]

Don’t even think about doing any more negotiating on this “boat”. This is truly the famous hole in the water that you throw money into, and never get it back. It would start with one engine, then maybe, likely, the other engine, then the rotted decks and stringers, then the electrical system. Endless. The cheapest boats are sometimes the most expensive ones. And if you are not an experienced DIY boater, then you pay someone $100 per hour for labor. A lot of us do our own work but that has been learned over many years of boat maintenance. Keep looking.

One thing a Uniflite has going for it is nothing to rot in the stringers (they are foam filled, no wooden structure in them), so at least there's that.

 

[Nomad Willy]

Thanks FF,
I was having a problem w that “lasts forever” comment.
And the sun does damage too. There’s a 16’ OB skiff I’ve been trying to buy for a long time but it’s been sitting out in a field .. and the rain and sun. Not worried about the stringers and other wood. Wood can be replaced.

But driving by the other day I wondered if I still wanted it .. re weathering.

 

[FF]

"Not worried about the stringers and other wood. Wood can be replaced."

Usually not needed , the wood is usually just the form to glass over so stringers can hold a bulkhead or some item in position.

Some builders used cardboard as a form to attach ceiling,.No problem.

 

[rslifkin]

"Not worried about the stringers and other wood. Wood can be replaced."

Usually not needed , the wood is usually just the form to glass over so stringers can hold a bulkhead or some item in position.

Some builders used cardboard as a form to attach ceiling,.No problem.

That varies from boat to boat, and even within a builder. Some models may rely on the wood for structure, others may not, some may use foam for a form, and other boats have completely hollow fiberglass stringers.

 

[boatpoker]

The engine in this Chriscraft sitting in the bilge after the stringer with very thin chopped mat glass over rotten wood collapsed.

 

[rslifkin]

The engine in this Chriscraft sitting in the bilge after the stringer with very thin chopped mat glass over rotten wood collapsed.

Yup, as far as I know, on any boats where Chris Craft used wood in the stringers, the wood was structural. Mostly the smaller models. Their larger boats (mine included) typically had hollow glass stringers with small pieces of wood glassed to the top in a few spots to give more material for the engine mounts to bolt to. Visually, my stringers appear to be made from mostly or entirely roving, no CSM visible.

 

[MonarchBeacher]

Uniflite 36

I sold a similar 1971 Uniflite 36 Flybridge in 2012 for $7500 and then the same boat for $499 at a lien sale for a marina in 2015. It had a port side Crusader motor that was in pieces. These boats at best, with good motors sell under $19,000 if in very good condition. This year should be "pre-blister". I've R & R'd about 40 vessels and over time I figure what that what you see is only about 60-70% of what really needs to be done once you get into the vessel.