Removing Window Trim

[jwag956]

Starting to try to figure out a leak (alas we have 2). This one is in the forward V-berth window. Yes, tracks have been cleaned, drain/weep hole clean, and in fact when it's leaking, there isn't much of any water in the track at all - so likely coming from somewhere higher up. Outside, caulk around windows 'looks' good. This is a 89 GB42 (So I think that means aluminum window frames).

Thanks to great advice here on TF, I got the teak bungs out (forstner bit and picks) and the screws thankfully came out easily.

But then - the trim doesn't budge - with the pick it is clear that at least at the window frame edges there is caulk/adhesive.

So - question is - anyone with experience in how to get the bottom teak board off w/o damaging things? Picture attached.

TIA

 

[SteveK]

Is the leak coming out at the bottom and that is why you are removing the teak board?

when it's leaking, there isn't much of any water in the track at all

If there is water in track does it have to be from outside. Aluminum is known to sweat.
Water in the track and boat flexing may have created a trail for water to follow. Have you tried a leak sealer like Captain Tolly.

 

[jwag956]

In the far right of the picture - you can see the long-term effects of the leak. Yes, coming out the bottom. The vertical window frame also has a crack - and I probably need to remove that as well (though I can't see how that is attached at all!). Haven't heard of Captain Tolly - cool product - but I am not sure where I would start to apply it?

 

[jgwinks]

On my boat, the dumbass builders fastened the plastic window runners into the aluminum frames with little screws shot through the plastic and metal. No sign of any caulk or sealant. That's guaranteed to leak. I removed the screws and runners and glued them back in with 4200, making sure the holes were well plugged. Now to fix the rotten wood paneling.

 

[jgwinks]

To get the wood trim off, I'd try an oscillating cut off tool, the kind with the offset blade. Pad the panel beneath with duct tape or something so you don't scratch it up and carefully work the blade in from the bottom. That should cut the glue holding it on.

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-amp-variable-speed-oscillating-multi-tool-57808.html

 

[SteveK]

what material is the tracks? Before I would remove anything, I would plug the drain hole and pour in the Captain Tolly. If that is where the leak originates it will seep out at the wall where water has been coming out before it sets and seals. Yes you have water damage, but the surface can be cleaned up.

But if it is your intention to remove/replace carry on.

 

[Choices]

Go to my blog, grandbankschoices, and dig around to find part on rebuilding GB windows.

You will not stop a leak from the inside.

This is a labor intensive fix, but not expensive.

The interior valances are held on by screws and bungs on some just screws on the inside.

If you have aluminum windows that is another can of worms. That is a real battle.

 

[michaelnyc]

I agree with Jgwinks. I have just had to do the same job on some of my windows and to remove the teak trim i used a Chalk blade on my oscillating tool. i used the Dewalt long blade that did great job of cutting through the old rock hard chalk.Just get the blade in between the trim and back board first before starting the tool.

Never a big fan of pouring another product in a defective area to fix a leak. The only way is what you are doing, take the time, take it apart and reconstruct the effected area.

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51f9XmEY5JL._AC_SX569_.jpg

 

[SteveK]

.................

You will not stop a leak from the inside.

.....................

Really? Even if the leak is not from the outside, wow.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. SK. "Even if the leak is not from the outside, wow." IF it's a leak and it's NOT from the outside, what is it and where is it coming from?

 

[SteveK]

RT, my GB and all of them appear to get drain holes plugged, which fills the trough on the inside (technically, maybe it originated from outside). But instead of draining out it finds a way inside as seen in the OP picture That trim creates the trough and is fastened to the wall. Water can and does find a route out as pictured. Plug that route and it can only leave via the proper drain hole.
In addition aluminum window frames when cold condensate humidity and water drips down INSIDE the boat which originated from inside.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. SK. I have experienced both the plugged drain and condensation situations so I can appreciate what you're saying but Mr. j posts that the drain holes are free and clear. I also understand that condensation might be a problem but no mention is made of this and that the visible damage may have been from past events but the leaks are current and ongoing leading me to believe that there IS an opening allowing water in.

What hasn't been mentioned and is a possible source (slight chance) is a crack/hole somewhere on the flybridge whereby the water is channeling down inside the bulkhead and exiting where the leak becomes apparent.

I've chased down my fair share of leaks with various boats over the years and I think you might agree with me that the apparent exit is not always necessarily closely associated with the entrance of water.

 

[Choices]

The picture water damage doesn't seem that bad. If I were to guess it occurred awhile ago, unless it is still wet. Condensation does occur on these boats, especially if you take showers in them when it is cool outside. Believe it or not, the entire interior was floated and painted, so water tends to lift the floated parts and they flake off.

My guess is at some point the drains, which were two 3/8" holes on each end were obstructed.

If that happens the track fills with water and it's 50/50 if it goes inside or out. It is tilted slightly to go out.

I cut big holes in mine, maybe 1-1 1/2" by full width. The opening in the fiberglass is at least 2", maybe three.

If it is dry you can just float it and paint it. Being a small window you might check around a hatch base cause once inside it can travel along the fiberglass roof or drip on to the headliner to make it to the wall.

I have not actually seen factory supplied aluminum windows, so if you have them please post some close up pictures.

Once aluminum windows start flaking it is constant maintenance. The fix is very involved. Supposedly many lawsuits over them. But Hatteras made them last a long time, so following their process gives you a chance.

Pretty common on GBs, the small windows are exposed and seldom opened.

A little diluted bleach can clean the track and a coat hanger the opening.

 

[koliver]

If the multi tool set back blade doesn't work, ie if you are trying to cut old 5200 or similar, I had had success using a very sharp fishing knife with a strong handle. Many shallow cuts, getting deeper as you go.

 

[jwag956]

Thanks for all the replies/advice.
Yes - it still leaks when raining (which up here in PNW is lots!).
And yes - we get a lot of condensation when cold (we don't heat the V-berth much).
The leak isn't much but definitely wets some rags we put down over the period of a week or more. And the 'water' is that ugly light brown (maybe due to running down the teak?).

My goal with removing the teak and then maybe the right side trim was to try to figure out where the water is coming from before I rip out the entire exterior window trim.

Finally - I don't know they are aluminum - I thought GB had changed from wood to something else in the 80's - perhaps I am wrong about that.

 

[Choices]

I would put duct tape along the top edge of the window outside, forcing water away to see if it stops. Also get heat in the vee berth now to dry everything out. If still leaking it might help pinpoint the problem.

Brown seepage means it is traveling through wood.