Lehman Filter Changes

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The oil in the Minimec needs to be changed every 50 hours. It is not that complicated, but it is difficult to get to the bolts.
There is one bolt on top of the fuel pump, one on the side and one on the bottom. After many experiments we now take the bolt of and put a hose with a small funnel below when the bolt is out. About 4.5 cups of oil will come out and once it is drained you use just normal engine oil as the new oil. Go slow with filling the last cup. As soon as the oil comes out of the opening where the middle bolt is sitting, there is enough oil in the pump.
I would suggest to really stick with the 50 hours and not go to the 100 hours as sometimes is suggested.

Which bolt do you take out, dammit! In what order? Please try again with a better explanation. Thanks.
 
Why does this not sound like a good idea to me? I've been a master tech for over 20 yrs and admit very limited diesel work, especially engine mechanical work. But I don't know about touching the headbolts….

But I could be wrong. I hope I am. , i love learning new things


Brian at American Diesel told me to re-torque the head bolts too.
 
Lehman Filter changes

First & foremost, contact Brian at American Diesel and make sure that your engine requires a change of oil in the injector pump. Some say it needs to be changed yet some discussions I've had with Brian he said no, it was lubricated by engine oil.

Second, I would also advise you acquire a part from him for the drain plug on the bottom of the pan. It is a hose connection to the drain for faster drains especially with a vacuum pump. I'm in the process of adding a changing system. Here (https://tinyurl.com/38kub4dz) is the Reverso system but there are others.

IF you plan to own the boat for a while this is a worthwhile 'investment'.
 
I thought Lehman 225/275 hp models (maybe others or modified ones) had injector pumps that were engine lubricated but the 120's did not. Easy enough to tell as there is an oil line or two between the pump and the block.

Block oil drain plugs/valves can be had from many sources.... just the thread size and pitch is needed.... plus they may offer different engineering and cost than American diesel.
 
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Ford 2315E motors, the 120 base, also called a Dorset, require injector pump oil changes. 2325E, the 135 motor, also called the Dover, do not. Don’t know about 2314E, the 120 version usually in Grand Banks.
 
120 injector pump, 14.3 oz oil
 

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Lehman Filter changes

I have twin 135s and no oil changes for the injectors.

I also don't know if at some point FL changed the 120's so no oil changes for the injectors, hence my recommendation to contact Brian to be SURE.

He is the ONLY source that I trust for FL whatever it might be.
 
That's too bad as there are other just as reliable sources, like the ones that still rebuild Lehman's that American Diesel no longer does. Bomac is just one.

I would venture to say there are only few factory Ford Lehman 120's or even the other models out there anymore. Many have so many different, reengineered or after market parts on them....it is a guessing game what you really need. My engine was a 120 block with a bunch of 135 parts off it that the PO scrimped on when he blew up his OEM 135 and got a cheapo 120 block instead. Drove both Brian at American Diesel and me nuts for a couple years till we straightened thing out and that was with the help of Bomac and a few other Lehman specialists.

No Lehman 120 I have ever seen has a block lubricated injection pump not have I ever read of one...but why waste a time with a phone call to a busy guy when all you have to do is look for oil lines going in and out?

It's not rocket science and bothering all these suppliers with basic questions takes away from when you have something serious and need to get through.
 
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Why does this not sound like a good idea to me? I've been a master tech for over 20 yrs and admit very limited diesel work, especially engine mechanical work. But I don't know about touching the headbolts.



Of course there are engines that when you install a new head gasket there will be special instructions. One of them on very few engines is to assemble engine and run until t-stat opens and the shut down and tighten 90 degrees more.



But that is when new. After a few yrs,,,, leave well enough alone.



But I could be wrong. I hope I am. , i love learning new things
With respect, you are, indeed wrong about valve lash adjustments on a Lehman 120. According to the manual, the valves should be adjusted after the first fifteen hours of operation and every 400 hours thereafter. Retorquing the head bolts is required before adjusting the valve lash. This is not required on a Lehman 135 because a different type of head bolt was used on these engines.
 
I adjusted mine shortly after I got the boat. Engine had around 3000 hours. I did not retorque the head. ( didn’t know I was supposed to)

14 years later it. was still running fine.
Yes, it sounded fine, but it is likely that your adjustment was imprecise. When I adjusted mine, the engines clearly ran more smoothly and quieter and probably more efficienyly.
 
First & foremost, contact Brian at American Diesel and make sure that your engine requires a change of oil in the injector pump. Some say it needs to be changed yet some discussions I've had with Brian he said no, it was lubricated by engine oil.



Second, I would also advise you acquire a part from him for the drain plug on the bottom of the pan. It is a hose connection to the drain for faster drains especially with a vacuum pump. I'm in the process of adding a changing system. Here (https://tinyurl.com/38kub4dz) is the Reverso system but there are others.



IF you plan to own the boat for a while this is a worthwhile 'investment'.
FL135, no, FL120, yes.
 
I probably checked/adjusted my valves 20 times in 3700 hours, I probably retorqued the head a half dozen times out of the 20.... almost always they were in spec.

I was paranoid about a sound I could never identify thus all the valve checks...so toque if you want to.....but there are a boatload of Lehman "should do's" that are way over the top and there are plenty of owners reporting that not doing them wound up with no ill effects....

Probably the worst is the 50 hr injector pump oil change.... what a joke unless you have an ancient pump or just never check for dilution.
 
This thread has drifted, but perhaps Lehman 120 operators might be interested in the injection pump filler plug removal tool a friend milled up for me. The slot in mine was getting chewed up, even tho I used a large screw driver.
BTW I checked with a reputable fuel injection service shop here. He said changing the oil at 75-100 hours is exemplary but not really needed. It is sufficient to just change it when changing the engine oil.
 

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1st time changing filters 135 Lehman. Anybody got some filter numbers handy ? There were 2 on board but no numbers. Sure wish I knew the recipe that makes those O rings grow so fast....
 
I used to get them from American Diesel. Don’t remember what brand they were but they were quality filters. The PO had left a bunch of NAPA ones. I tried using them an the engine wouldn’t run. Called Brian and he said that the NAPA filters were junk. He sent me some and the engine immediately ran fine. Also beware that the gaskets are not O rings but rather sorta square gaskets. Make sure they go in without a twist. And make sure you get all the old ones out.
 
Do you have any numbers at all? Trying to splash before end of week, doubt I could get them from Brian in time.
 
More thread drift: my port engine injector pump oil was diluted with diesel when I did my annual oil change ritual last month (~65hrs). What should I do next? Stbd injector pump oil was fine.
 
Do you have any numbers at all? Trying to splash before end of week, doubt I could get them from Brian in time.

Sorry but it was about 4 years ago. Brian can overnight them if they are in stock.
 
My order list for the 120. Delphi fuel filters and Motorcraft oil filter. Ordered on a Monday and received on Wednesday.
 

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Now that you mention it the ones Brian sent were Delphi filters.
 
HDF 296 I believe is the Delphi fuel filter number.
My parts list I posted shows FP6149717 as American Diesel's part number if ordered from them.
 
prefilling secondary filter

One of the posters mentioned prefilling the secondary filters, presumably with diesel.
If the diesel you use to prefill is not completely devoid of any particles that should be filtered, you risk damaging your injection system and/or engine.
If you look at the filter, there is one center hole and around the edges there are a series of oval or round holes. if you insert the diesel through the smaller holes, it will be filtered. If you insert it through the center hole, it will not be filtered.
 
One of the posters mentioned prefilling the secondary filters, presumably with diesel.
If the diesel you use to prefill is not completely devoid of any particles that should be filtered, you risk damaging your injection system and/or engine.
If you look at the filter, there is one center hole and around the edges there are a series of oval or round holes. if you insert the diesel through the smaller holes, it will be filtered. If you insert it through the center hole, it will not be filtered.

A mechanic showed me that he uses "Sea Foam" additive to top up filter canisters, rather than worry about keeping diesel fuel on hand to top up with. Apparently, a diesel engine can run on Sea Foam as fuel with the added benefit cleaning injectors. So, I keep several bottles on hand to top up the filters after a filter change. No mess.
 
I always just changed the filters and then pumped fuel into them to fill. It is filtered and no problem.
 
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