Help with Stove/Oven

[JGORT]

Hey good evening. We have a 120 volt 3 burner Stove/Oven. The unit is a Princess model BR 33-7. When we turn on the breaker the indicator light on the right front turns on and does not change when we turn the knob. The left front and the rear center turns on and off and the oven works fine. Any ideas as to why it does not turn off.

 

[SteveK]

WAG. Replace that knob or disconnect the power to it. Sounds like the off position is not completely off.

 

[CaptTom]

See if this wiring diagram helps any. Of particular interest is at the top left: "A - Selector Switch - Left top OR oven." Verify that you don't have it set to "Oven" and that it works.

 

[JGORT]

WAG. Replace that knob or disconnect the power to it. Sounds like the off position is not completely off.

Thank you I will try to swap out the switch with one of the others to see if the problem changes so I can test the switch.

 

[SteveK]

post a picture please or refer to diagram @CaptTom posted to confirm the light. if it is the oven light? on mine full clockwise turns on broiler and a noticeable fully counterclockwise click off. it may be just the light switch is not going off.

 

[JGORT]

See if this wiring diagram helps any. Of particular interest is at the top left: "A - Selector Switch - Left top OR oven." Verify that you don't have it set to "Oven" and that it works.

View attachment 154322

Thank you it looks like the switches are the same so I will try to swap the switch for one of the others to see if the switch is bad.

post a picture please or refer to diagram @CaptTom posted to confirm the light. if it is the oven light? on mine full clockwise turns on broiler and a noticeable fully counterclockwise click off. it may be just the light switch is not going off.

I will post a picture later today when I get to the boat. But it is the switch next to the oven switch. Does the burner’s being switched make a difference we removed all of them to clean when we replaced them maybe they didn’t go back in the same spot. The Oven works great the broiler and the bottom burner.

 

[SteveK]

Left & Right are the same 1100w so unless they fit into the back 550w you should be ok

 

[JGORT]

Ok so we turned on the breaker for the Stove/Oven and instantly the indicator light on the right front burner turned on with the switch in the off position. I did check the burners KV’s one by one and found the 2 that were equal so I placed them side by side and the different one in the back. We turned them on one by one and the 2 in the front did get to glow and the one in the back got warm as I was told should happen but still when we turned off the switch the right front indicator light stayed on even though the burner was off I tested by holding my hand on it. I’m inclined to believe that the switch is bad. Any ideas. The switch seems fairly easy to remove as I was able to pull the top cover off of them.

 

[JGORT]

Sorry the pictures did not go through

 

[SteveK]

If you are inclined to confirm this, remove the switch below the lit light and move over one of the other switches. That will confirm if the switch is faulty.

 

[JGORT]

If you are inclined to confirm this, remove the switch below the lit light and move over one of the other switches. That will confirm if the switch is faulty.

I agree completely that will be a tomorrow thing. Thank you for your input.

 

[luna]

You don't need to remove the switches to test their function. With the breaker in the off position and no power going to the stove/oven, remove the conductor that connects to the lower right terminal of the suspect switch as shown on the schematic (it provides power to the indicator lamp) along with the switch's center terminal L1 conductors, there are 2 shown, perhaps grouped in one connector. Once removed, with the switch in the "on" position and your multimeter in Ohms and squeal, touch the two terminals on the switch with the meter's leads and record the numbers and if the meter squeals. It should display both.
Now turn the switch to "off", if you get anything other than "OL" on the meter, (which means open leads,) or hear any stuck pig, the switch is bad. A good switch will display neither numbers nor noise.

If the latter is the case, it could have been a wiring terminal inadvertently making a connection to the L1 terminal on the outside of the switch that illuminated the lamp. Clean everything up using acetone or equal & a small stiff brush, then put it all back together as you found it, making all of the connections clean and tight and ensure that they are not touching each other. It might work just fine once cleaned and reconnected.

If the switch is truly bad you need to rebuild it or replace it.

Good luck with whatever you chose.

 

[JGORT]

You don't need to remove the switches to test their function. With the breaker in the off position and no power going to the stove/oven, remove the conductor that connects to the lower right terminal of the suspect switch as shown on the schematic (it provides power to the indicator lamp) along with the switch's center terminal L1 conductors, there are 2 shown, perhaps grouped in one connector. Once removed, with the switch in the "on" position and your multimeter in Ohms and squeal, touch the two terminals on the switch with the meter's leads and record the numbers and if the meter squeals. It should display both.
Now turn the switch to "off", if you get anything other than "OL" on the meter, (which means open leads,) or hear any stuck pig, the switch is bad. A good switch will display neither numbers nor noise.

If the latter is the case, it could have been a wiring terminal inadvertently making a connection to the L1 terminal on the outside of the switch that illuminated the lamp. Clean everything up using acetone or equal & a small stiff brush, then put it all back together as you found it, making all of the connections clean and tight and ensure that they are not touching each other. It might work just fine once cleaned and reconnected.

If the switch is truly bad you need to rebuild it or replace it.

Good luck with whatever you chose.

Thank You for your help. I will try tomorrow when back at the Vessel.

 

[JGORT]

Thank You for your help. I will try tomorrow when back at the Vessel.

Ok so I tried to test the switch as we discussed and everything checked out per the meter. Since it was already partially disconnected I went ahead and swapped the switch out with the center switch and now the indicator light on the right front burner turns off but now the issue has traveled to the center switch. My wife found a new switch on eBay for a very reasonable price so we ordered it and should receive it between May 4 to the 9. I will keep you all updated as soon as we get it. Thank You for all the support.

 

[braid11]

Ok so I tried to test the switch as we discussed and everything checked out per the meter. Since it was already partially disconnected I went ahead and swapped the switch out with the center switch and now the indicator light on the right front burner turns off but now the issue has traveled to the center switch. My wife found a new switch on eBay for a very reasonable price so we ordered it and should receive it between May 4 to the 9. I will keep you all updated as soon as we get it. Thank You for all the support.

Your stove looks just like mine, I need a new switch. What make of boat do you have, just so I can confirm if it is the same as mine.

 

[JGORT]

Your stove looks just like mine, I need a new switch. What make of boat do you have, just so I can confirm if it is the same as mine.

We have a 41 President Sundeck. The Stove I purchased secondhand from someone in Port Charlotte Fl. But the switch we purchased on eBay. The only difference is that the one that I purchased had a short stem for the nut to lock on to the front of the stove so I switched out that stem with the old one that I had by just opening up the front of the switch the actual shaft is long enough. Works great paid 15.00 for the switch.