Drop in LiFePO4 batt

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
The 624 I have is delivering .2 volt more than it thinks it is, and while Balmar has kindly offered to replace it, for now in order to get a final bulk target of 28 volts I've applied the following settings, all shown in Balmar's cryptic abbreviations:

dLc: 30 (delay before ramp up of current)
CL: 28.2 (temperature compensation limit)
bv: 27.8 (bulk voltage set point target)
b1c: 2 (duration at bulk after set point is reached. 12 minutes)
Av: 27.6 (absorption voltage after 12 minutes at bulk set point)
A1c: 2 (duration at absorption set point is reached. 12 minutes)
Fv: 26.4 (float voltage, set below resting voltage so they don't float)
F1c: 2 (minimum time at float, 12 minutes)
AP: 78% (max output of alternator)
FbA: 74% (percentage of alternator output that triggers shift to absorption voltage, after the minimum of 12 minutes. I may have this one set too high, but I am not sure about that....)
FFL: 74% (percentage of alternator output that triggers shift from float back to absorption voltage. Same comment....)

This is based on my understanding of how this device functions, so any corrections from more knowledgeable users would be much appreciated. Engineers should not write documentation....


Just curious...

Why not run bulk mode (using Balmar's meaning for bulk) until the target voltage it reached, then stop completely? I think there is an immovable 6 min time that it will spend there, but set the programmed value to zero. Then set the absorb (again using Balmar's meaning) to the same voltage as float, and set the time to zero?

The reasoning is that as I understand LiFePO, you risk over charging if you linger at a higher charge voltage for too long. Between bulk and absorb, you are lingering for 24 minutes, and perhaps 36 if my recollection is correct about the built-in extra 6 minutes that you can't control.

Or, does charge acceptance current simply drop to zero once the battery reaches the bulk/absorb voltages, and it doesn't matter?
 
In practice people are usually looking for more change current, not less.
I use the same (very expensive) charger for a very wide range of different AH sized batteries in multiple contexts and locations.

But even on one boat, just switching from House to the Nav/Engine bank may require different current rates.
 
Just curious...

Why not run bulk mode (using Balmar's meaning for bulk) until the target voltage it reached, then stop completely? I think there is an immovable 6 min time that it will spend there, but set the programmed value to zero. Then set the absorb (again using Balmar's meaning) to the same voltage as float, and set the time to zero?

The reasoning is that as I understand LiFePO, you risk over charging if you linger at a higher charge voltage for too long. Between bulk and absorb, you are lingering for 24 minutes, and perhaps 36 if my recollection is correct about the built-in extra 6 minutes that you can't control.

Or, does charge acceptance current simply drop to zero once the battery reaches the bulk/absorb voltages, and it doesn't matter?

At least with the 624 unit I have, the minimum time setting is 12 minutes, so zero isn't an option. I don't think the 12 minutes more charge time when the bulk set point voltage is reached is going to be material. My plan is to set the absorption time period to the time it takes for the current acceptance to drop to around 20-30 amps. At that point, further charging is probably pointless.
 
Well at 600AH, voltage 3.45pc, you could go until 6-10A without hurting longevity.

But there is nothing to be gained by doing so other than a fractional % gain in effective AH capacity.

Better to err on the low side than high.
 
What happens to everything on your DC bus when the voltage transient, caused by an open circuit load dump, shoots your DC bus through the roof?


I know of no regulation circuitry that can react fast enough, with a charge source at full bore, to eliminate the possibility of a voltage transient causing damage to your gear. This includes alt regulators, inverters and other charge sources.

Transorbs can do the job.
 
Transorbs can do the job.

But why would you wire a system to rely on a Band-Aid approach, or what should really be a secondary or tertiary design addition, as your primary line of defense?? TVS diodes are also not 100% reliable, especially after a high current transient, so they must be properly sized.
 
Had our first few days out with our new batteries and I am thrilled. The voltage changes so slowly as you draw off current it is just amazing. After full charge, 27.2 volts. After a day of rest 26.8 volts. After 100 amps used about 26.6 volts. At -300 amps, 26.4 volts.

I think we stumbled on the best way to use this bank, given our style of cruising, and I think this may be applicable to others with similar equipment. As always, comments and corrections are welcomed....

We have a Blue Seas Combiner designed to connect a lead acid starter bank with the house bank when the house bank reaches around 27 volts. I wired it with a three position switch for Manual Combine/Auto Combine/No Combine. This is a typical installation. The LiFe batteries have a Lithionics BMS with an on/off switch. Our usage will be as follows:

Sitting at the dock on shore power: BMS off, so Li batteries are "off line". Combiner on manual combine so they can be re-charged via the Trace 4000 charger/inverter that is wired to the output buss of the Li batteries. Since the BMS is off, they are disconnected from that buss, so the charge current is only going to the FLA starter bank to supply shoreside 24 vdc loads.

Underway, the BMS is also likely off unless I want the Li batteries recharged. Since they don't much care whether they sit partially charged or not, and since they re-charge so fast I imagine I will mostly just keep them offline when underway. This would especially be the case on long voyages where we were motoring for days. In this state, the Combiner is in the Auto position.

At anchor, the BMS is on, the Combiner is in the Auto position and we are using the Li batteries for all loads. Recharging, at least for now, will be done at around 240 amps or 40% of the capacity of the bank via the engine alternator and the Trace charger powered by the genset. About and hour and 15 minutes to fully recharge after a day's usage.

In other words, the Li bank is the "at anchor" bank. If you are at the dock, or underway, let them sit - you don't need them. At anchor, they provide rock steady voltages, delivering up to 450 amps without a hiccup. We'll draw them down to around 75%, then re-charge.

Under this scenario, combining chemistries of FLA and Li isn't an issue since they are never combined unless you are charging both, and then the charging requirements of the Li batteries are fine for the FLA.

So far, so good.
 
I'd love to see details on the switch's "no combine" wiring.

And note this isn't what I'd call "drop-in" LFP, which to me means the protective circuitry is built in, unable to bypass. Therefore for example unsuitable as the only batt fed by an alt.
 
I'd love to see details on the switch's "no combine" wiring.

And note this isn't what I'd call "drop-in" LFP, which to me means the protective circuitry is built in, unable to bypass. Therefore for example unsuitable as the only batt fed by an alt.

It's a latching relay with a solenoid. No combine kills the solenoid, manual combine activates it and auto activates it based on house bank voltage.
 
But why would you wire a system to rely on a Band-Aid approach, or what should really be a secondary or tertiary design addition, as your primary line of defense?? TVS diodes are also not 100% reliable, especially after a high current transient, so they must be properly sized.

Band aid approach? Quite the contrary, but obviously it isnt something you would prefer. As for not being reliable you may be confusing transorbs with varistors, transorbs are quite predictable after a transient unlike varistors.

Refer to figure 6...
www.st.com/resource/en/application_note/cd00005042.pdf

P.S. I wasnt suggesting to design in anything, I was simply rebutting your comment about knowing of nothing that could do the job. TVS diodes can and do.
 
Last edited:
P.S. I wasnt suggesting to design in anything, I was simply rebutting your comment about knowing of nothing that could do the job. TVS diodes can and do.

My comment was about regulation circuitry not being fast enough to prevent the spike to begin with. There are multiple ways to minimize or eliminate the risk of a transient on the house bus in the first place. A TVSD accepts that there will be a spike and deals with it after the fact not before. A dual bus system including a BMS that can communicate with charge sources, to shut them down properly, is the optimal design solution.
 
Last edited:
I was at Costco last week and noticed their Interstate GC2 batteries are under $80. 210AH. So for $160 you get get 100Ah of usable power. If a typical GC2 bank lasts 5 years, you would need to use the LIPo for over 25 years to break even on the cost.

Did I fail at math again?

You didn't fail at math but if the claims are true, the ability to discharge to zero without damage mean you get more useable capacity and don't run the risk of seriously damaging your battery bank if something unexpected happens.

The other warnings posted are a concern though. I don't think I'm quite ready to make the plunge.
 
My comment was about regulation circuitry not being fast enough to prevent the spike to begin with. There are multiple ways to minimize or eliminate the risk of a transient on the house bus in the first place. A TVSD accepts that there will be a spike and deals with it after the fact not before. A dual bus system including a BMS that can communicate with charge sources, to shut them down properly, is the optimal design solution.

The transorb was offered to address you exact hypothetical question regarding an alternator glitches on its output. Your optimal solution can not react in time whereas the transorb can. Glitches happen.

If you believe the only optimal solution is an orderly shutdown via communications between devices, you're never going to provide a solution at all. Thus your belief that nothing exists is true, but not because a viable solution doesn't exist, just that you have boxed yourself in.
 
The transorb was offered to address you exact hypothetical question regarding an alternator glitches on its output. Your optimal solution can not react in time whereas the transorb can. Glitches happen.

The only way a BMS would not react in time is if you don't use a well designed BMS and instead stuff it inside a "drop-in" battery so that it can't work properly with the rest of your systems or communicate externally. A well designed BMS & system would give you advanced warning of a dangerous situation either on HV or LV or cell temp.

If you choose, for example, not to react to an HV warning it will then shut down charging, not by open circuiting the output, but by shutting down charge sources properly.. This will stop the voltage rise, due to the glitch, but because you have a dual bus well designed system you've not lost power to the vessel just because your alt hiccuped only the charge bus is isolated and the alts regulator shut down.

If you believe the only optimal solution is an orderly shutdown via communications between devices, you're never going to provide a solution at all.

Yet proper BMS shut downs and system designs do work and they do exist and there are quite a lot of them out there.. I have installed many including Mastervolt, Genasun & others plus custom builds. I've been using LFP on my own vessel since 2011. Good engineering of the system, design and installation is only difficult when you stuff the contactor/BMS inside a sealed box with no warnings and no external communication. It's just a box that can take itself on and off line and you'll never know when because you really have no idea what is happening in there.

Thus your belief that nothing exists is true, but not because a viable solution doesn't exist, just that you have boxed yourself in.

I've not boxed myself in at all I prefer to design, install and use systems with solid engineering and a well executed design. Unlike the guy I talked with in April who t-boned a bridge abutment $$$$ when one of his "drop-in LFP's", in his series wired propulsion bank, open circuited taking out his e-propulsion. To this day he has no idea why that contactor opened taking out his entire bank. "But the manufacturer said it was okay to wire them in series." of course they did..... The same battery has open circuited now three times and the manufacturer is not standing behind it. No warning, no alarms of any kind just gone, no propulsion. This is but one reason why I caution folks who desire LFP systems to choose carefully.

No, I would not choose to build a system using TVSD's as the first line of defense against a transient because I chose an under engineered battery not well suited for a marine application. I prefer to start with a solid foundational design when dealing with LFP. TVSD's are great tools, & I do use them on some vessels but they would never be my first line of defense to patch up a poorly designed battery for the use...

Will a drop-in LFP, with no external communication, meet the ABYC safety standards when it is finally finished? If it does not will your insurer stand behind a LFP system that fails to meet the ABYC standards? I can't comment at this point in regards to the safety standards other than to suggest being very careful in choosing an LFP battery..;)
 
Any thoughts on this would be appreciated:

In charging the LiFe batteries, the charge acceptance rate declines to 2% of capacity before ever hitting the target bulk voltage of 28. Anyone have an idea of why this is? They accept whatever I throw at them, current wise, at a steady rate, then a few minutes before they are "full" they will drop from a CAR of 200 amps to 20 amps.
 
What is determining that target voltage (not "bulk" btw)?

String of 8 cells right? 27.6V would be my target.

If you already posted your system details, just post a link.
 
What is determining that target voltage (not "bulk" btw)?

String of 8 cells right? 27.6V would be my target.

If you already posted your system details, just post a link.

The bulk voltage set point on both the Balmar 624 and the Trace charger is manually set to 28vdc.
 
Then I meant why?

Try dropping it to 27.6 instead, see if that gives you a gentler transition.

This isn't actually a Drop-in type LFP, right? What/where is the BMS, and does it exercise any control over regulating charge input?

Is what you're reporting the same with either charge source?

My ideal BMS would actually do exactly that, protect the bank from getting too full.
 
And I know it's nitpicky, but do please try to remember that "bulk voltage" is just Balmar's weird/mistaken usage.

Maybe the fact that they drop the voltage once the bank reaches CV accounts for what you're seeing?

Personally I would just call that point (a little more than) full.

Why do you see that behaviour as a problem?
 
They call it the same thing Trace calls it, the same thing Ample Power called it - the bulk voltage setting.

The reason for the question is that the charge curve for these Lithionic batteries indicates that they would expect to see around 28.8 colts before being "full".
 
the charge curve for these Lithionic batteries indicates that they would expect to see around 28.8 colts before being "full".
That is way **too** full!

IMO you do not want to even approach the "shoulders" at either end of that curve, keep your cycling between 3Vpc at rest at the bottom and 3.45Vpc until amps drop when charging.

From the bank's POV no reason to go that high, you only gain you a small percentage in capacity and cost hundreds of cycles off their potential lifetime, maybe thousands.

Stay below the setpoint where your BMS wants to start "auto top balancing" if it is designed to do that.

Have you been in personal contact with Bruce Schwab, the designer of your system?

Does his system provide a way to just terminate charging when current reaches endAmps?

And yes, this has nothing to do with the topic of this thread.

They call it the same thing Trace calls it, the same thing Ample Power called it - the bulk voltage setting.
Doesn't make it right in the modern usage, but I'll try to remember to stop correcting you if you feel the need. . .

Just curious, I know Balmar does, but did these other vendors (which no longer exist) also have a separate Absorb voltage setpoint?
 
Pricing?

What sort of pricing range are you all seeing in the States for LiFePo that makes it advantageous to consider?

The best price I have received direct from China is $800 for a 12v 200ah unit, although they also have a 24v 100 ah version that is tempting. Still, since that works out to $4 per usable amp-hour, which is more than double that of golf cart or industrial 2v flooded, what is the great advantage???
 
Light weight less space

90% of capacity usable

incredible CAR, get back to full well under an hour

much flatter discharge curve even at high rates, e.g. large inverter usage stays well over 12V until almost empty

no need to get to full, in fact prefers low SoC storage when not cycling, no need to float

maybe decades of lifetime, thousands of cycles if properly cared for

to the point cheaper than quality lead over the years even at triple the price up front
 
Light weight less space

90% of capacity usable

incredible CAR, get back to full well under an hour

much flatter discharge curve even at high rates, e.g. large inverter usage stays well over 12V until almost empty

no need to get to full, in fact prefers low SoC storage when not cycling, no need to float

maybe decades of lifetime, thousands of cycles if properly cared for

to the point cheaper than quality lead over the years even at triple the price up front

Hi John

I have followed this interesting thread, reading most all posts thoroughly. Seems obvious that the cutting edge battery types and charger configurations mentioned are by far exemplary of "current" [pun intended] best-in-class DC power systems for boats. Also, it is clear that you guys are having a blast working this new, expensive battery/charger opportunity to its fullest capabilities. Bravo to you all!

Although such as you mention... "maybe decades of lifetime, thousands of cycles if properly cared for" ... "to the point cheaper than quality lead over the years even at triple the price up front"

My question: With DC battery and charger technology consistently making strides for better and better options, isn't it a bit overboard [again a slight pun here] to put all that cash into a boat's DC system that could provide - "maybe decades of lifetime, thousands of cycles if properly cared for" - when this expensive DC system will likely become surpassed/outmoded by newer/better DC systems in the not too distant future?

I ask that question for the good of general boaters, especially for the respect of newbies, who may not be flush with cash... but... may begin to feel that they too need to spend thousands upon thousands of dollars trying to "keep up with the Joneses".

For the good of most boaters, feel I must repeat the old adage, : Unless of course a person simply likes to spend cash and many hours effort for improved DC system [which is perfectly OK it that's what is desired]... "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"
 
Most people spending large sums are doing so because they need the other features, for example racers saving weight.

Others are professionals gaining experience with the technology for tge sake of their career and future customers.

Some pioneers need to collect the arrows in their backs.

Note this is a sector where things change very slowly regarding market acceptance. LFP has been around and will take some time to penetrate the market.

So will the next big thing.
 
Hi John

I have followed this interesting thread, reading most all posts thoroughly. Seems obvious that the cutting edge battery types and charger configurations mentioned are by far exemplary of "current" [pun intended] best-in-class DC power systems for boats. Also, it is clear that you guys are having a blast working this new, expensive battery/charger opportunity to its fullest capabilities. Bravo to you all!

Although such as you mention... "maybe decades of lifetime, thousands of cycles if properly cared for" ... "to the point cheaper than quality lead over the years even at triple the price up front"

My question: With DC battery and charger technology consistently making strides for better and better options, isn't it a bit overboard [again a slight pun here] to put all that cash into a boat's DC system that could provide - "maybe decades of lifetime, thousands of cycles if properly cared for" - when this expensive DC system will likely become surpassed/outmoded by newer/better DC systems in the not too distant future?

I ask that question for the good of general boaters, especially for the respect of newbies, who may not be flush with cash... but... may begin to feel that they too need to spend thousands upon thousands of dollars trying to "keep up with the Joneses".

For the good of most boaters, feel I must repeat the old adage, : Unless of course a person simply likes to spend cash and many hours effort for improved DC system [which is perfectly OK it that's what is desired]... "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

Art, when you say that "this expensive DC system will likely become surpassed/outmoded by newer/better DC systems in the not too distant future" you're probably right, but the opportunities for improvement outside of lowering manufacturing cost may be somewhat limited when you are talking about LiFePO4 batteries. The ideal DC battery has at least these characteristics:

1. Cheap
2. No maintenance
3. Works with existing charging technologies
4. 100% energy efficient on charge and discharge (take out 100 Ah, recharge to full with 100 Ah)
5. Lightweight with super high energy density (Ah per pound)
6. No loss of capacity over time (infinite cycles)
7. Safe


As near as I can tell, these batteries meet all of the above except "cheap" about as closely as may be practically possible, so the chance of dramatically improving on them seems less likely than you suggest.

Maintenance - I turn them on when I use them and off when I don't. Beyond that, there isn't anything to do, maintenance wise.

Charging - I'm able to use my existing Trace charger/inverter and Balmar controlled voltage regulation. Some may not have equivalent equipment but the charging requirements of these batteries are explicit, but seem pretty easy to provide.

Efficiency - Maybe 95% - 98%. Not sure, but so far I see almost no energy not being stored by the battery. On discharge, there is almost no voltage drop even with high loads. Battery at 26.3 volts, turn on 85 amp 24v inverted load (microwave), battery drops maybe to 26.2 volts. Much better on all electrical equipment. 80% of the bank rated capacity is routinely available for consumption, double that of FLA, but probably an area that will be improved upon.

Weight - these are certainly a lot lighter than flooded lead acid but maybe a lighter battery will come down the pike.

Cycles - I doubt any of us could outlive the number of cycles these batteries will deliver if managed with no greater skills required than for any other battery.

Safety - these are safer than FLA, but both seem safe enough to me.

In other words, sure, this technology will be improved upon but in the terms of what a battery bank is supposed to do on a boat, I don't see a whole lot of room for improvement. Except cost.

Factors to consider regarding cost - if you spend your time at the dock, mostly, then you don't need fancy batteries. If you spend a lot of time cruising or on the hook then the cost per cycle on Lithium batteries is as low or much lower than other alternatives.
 
I don't think the Drop-In LFP design has all the advantages of traditional bare cells + outside protection.

Using them with charge sources designed for lead will definitely reduce their lifespan.

They can't be the only load dump on an Alt.

And CMS noted the hazards of the inbuilt BMS not communicating with the outside world.

I think they are great for DIY portable powerpacks though.
 
Back
Top Bottom