1. Say you want to start from factory defaults after messing with various settings....
---change the battery type to something else, like from flooded to agn, let it save, then switch back and let it save again.
2. Another good trick is to do your programming without the engine power on and the oil pressure buzzer running.....
---make a long jumper wire with two female spade connectors at one end, enough length to get to a positive voltage point, and an alligator clip on the other end. I used Red wire and the blue sized crimp connectors.
--- Turn the Ford plug upside down and plug in only to the very bottom male spade connector until the regulator. Now the black wire end of the ford plug is connected only.
Connect the two female spades on the wire you just made up to the two regulator connectors next to the black ground from the Ford plug. Connect the alligator clip to a positive voltage source. Take your time and program away!
3. Always let your changes get SAVed by letting it cycle through the settings a few times and waiting for the SAV.
4. Always measure the wire length from the battery positive to the regulator and the regulator negative to ground. Look up the right size wire, go a size larger. I had wire, breakers, and dash gauges all sized for 60 amp max. The 100 amp alternators kept getting fried. Every time the breaker tripped the field collapsed, like a coil on a car , and the voltage surge had to go somewhere like the diodes. Also fried a couple stators due to this. I had the balmars installed by a diesel mechanic but it took almost a year and two alternator rebuilds to figure out they didn't up size the gauges, breakers, and wire gauge.
Breaker should be 125% of alternator output so I needed a 125 amp breaker.
Dash gauge stopped at 60 amp, new gauge went to 100.
Disconnect the jumper wire, flip the Ford plug over, and go cruising! It sure was nice to see the dash gauge go to 90 amps !
1988 Grand Banks 46 #29
Twin CAT 3208T's