Help With Wireless Windlass Control

One of the great ideas I've found on this forum was to use a wireless industrial hoist controller for the anchor windlass. For less than $100 I got a basic control that handles UP / DOWN only - don't think I'll need the travel function of the bigger units


Of course you get what you pay for, and in this case I got a confusing wiring diagram and zero instructions. I'm fairly knowledgeable in electronics, but am not sure what the heck this diagram tells me.


Terminals 1 & 2 are both labeled Power. I assume the black lead (term 1) is for ground?
What few instructions there are say "Red Comm wire (term 3) shall connect to the same voltage as that to the controlled devices." Nothing else given.


Assuming power in at terminal 3, what would the 'Main' (term 4) lead connect to? Can't go to ground as it's a dead short. Maybe it connects to nothing?


I think I can test this thing by connecting 12v to term 2, ground to term 1. Then activate the remote and check for continuity between term 3 and the UP/DOWN terminals 5 & 6.


Am I missing something obvious?

I would need more info...from the manufacturer or owner's manual. Not sure what the coil is doing as depicted in the wiring label.

I went with one of the $18 wireless remotes for truck/ATV winches. The wiring was simple as I just piggy backed onto the foot switches to the solenoid box.

that's a goofy drawing. seems like 1&2 power up the radio and control section. plus dc goes in at 3. 4 looks like fused power for whatever purpose, the up and down can drive the relays (plus dc side of the relay coil) you use to control the winch.
of course that could be completely wrong, you can't know if there's no information available. you just have to test it and see.

Bmarler said:

...that's a goofy drawing....

Click to expand...

Glad I wasn't the only one who thought so...

So I set up a test bed. The schematic is basically correct. I connected :

#1 GND
#2 +12VDC
#3 Ohmmeter lead common
#5 Ohmmeter lead
#6 Ohmmeter lead - alternate with #5

As suspected, leads 1&2 power the device circuitry that runs the wireless system and closes the relays.

#3 is where the + power to activate the windlass relays goes in. This connection is fused at 5A. It is also a direct connection to terminal #4 for some reason. I can only surmise that if you don't want a 5a fused line going to your relays, you can connect + power here instead of #3.

5 and 6 are as expected. They close when the respective UP or DOWN key is pressed.

I tested at the far ends of the boat, down 2 decks and the system worked fine. So tomorrow I will have a remote controlled anchor windlass! Not bad for $90...

psneeld said:

.

I went with one of the $18 wireless remotes for truck/ATV winches. The wiring was simple as I just piggy backed onto the foot switches to the solenoid box.

Click to expand...

Bought the same and piggy backed off of the toggle switch up/down in wheelhouse

Lasted 5 years of daily usage before the black box started working intermittently
New one on order.

Simi 60 said:

Bought the same and piggy backed off of the toggle switch up/down in wheelhouse

Lasted 5 years of daily usage before the black box started working intermittently
New one on order.

Click to expand...

Had one out in the weather on my boom winch that worked for 7 years and was still working when I sold the boat. After about 4 years of using it is when I added it to my windlass controls because my foot controls kept failing each year. Both never missed a beat.