Out cruising - raw water leak in FL120 oil cooler

[socalrider]

Another one for the TF brain trust

After an extremely trouble free summer of Channel Islands cruising I noticed the attached pic - salt crystals forming on the aft seal of my port engine oil cooler.

I’m at Cat Harbor now, planning on motoring back (10hrs) to San Diego on Friday. Unfortunately I’m not carrying a spare. Trying to figure out the best path forward. I’ve not pulled apart one of these so proceeding with caution.

1. Think it’ll make the trip back? Or,
2. Possible to repair locally? Or,
3. Should I try and get a replacement in the next 24 hours?

Edit: oil looks good. I am losing a bit (maybe a quart every 10 hours or so) but no evidence that water is getting into the oil.

 

[ofer]

i would go back home and check then.

good to know there is decent reception in Cat harbor

 

[socalrider]

i would go back home and check then.

good to know there is decent reception in Cat harbor

Thanks!

Verizon works well here. T-Mobile is no good.

Amazingly I found a guy who can get the part to Avalon tomorrow for about $150 (plus $30 for the ferry ride), so I’m gonna be safe rather than sorry and grab it.

 

[Comodave]

That sounds like the best plan.

 

[rslifkin]

Get the replacement if you can. If not, figure out what you need to bypass it. Monitor oil temps with an IR gun if you bypass, but if you're not running the engine hard, you'll probably be fine without the cooler.

 

[JohnEasley]

I found a guy who can get the part to Avalon tomorrow for about $150 (plus $30 for the ferry ride), so I’m gonna be safe rather than sorry and grab it.

That's really the best plan, though I would have been tempted to head home and do the repairs there. The leak is minimal but they don't get better.

 

[psneeld]

If just salt crystals....it could last years, visible weep and yes I would replace immediately or bypass.



I have discussed bypassing with American Diesel and they though no big deal if run in the normal cruising range of Lehmans (1600-1800 rpm).

 

[ofer]

Thanks!

Verizon works well here. T-Mobile is no good.

Amazingly I found a guy who can get the part to Avalon tomorrow for about $150 (plus $30 for the ferry ride), so I’m gonna be safe rather than sorry and grab it.

I know. just an excuse to stay at Avalon for a few more days

 

[socalrider]

I know. just an excuse to stay at Avalon for a few more days

Man the couple of times we've circled into Avalon to re-supply and pick up passengers it's been incredibly busy! Very tough to get a mooring in Avalon, and Descanso and Hamilton have been extremely rolly.

Cat harbor is fantastic - muy tranquilo.

Thanks for all the help everyone - happy with the way this turned out.

I did clean off the cooler and ran the engine for a while - no visible leaking. But I check the engine constantly and didn't see those crystals last time, so I suspect it may be weeping visibly when up at full cruising rpm and/or temp. It'll feel good to have a new one in there for the return passage.

 

[catalinajack]

Man the couple of times we've circled into Avalon to re-supply and pick up passengers it's been incredibly busy! Very tough to get a mooring in Avalon, and Descanso and Hamilton have been extremely rolly.



Cat harbor is fantastic - muy tranquilo.



Thanks for all the help everyone - happy with the way this turned out.



I did clean off the cooler and ran the engine for a while - no visible leaking. But I check the engine constantly and didn't see those crystals last time, so I suspect it may be weeping visibly when up at full cruising rpm and/or temp. It'll feel good to have a new one in there for the return passage.

As an owner of two FL 120s, I am curious as to how many hours that oil cooler has seen.

 

[socalrider]

As an owner of two FL 120s, I am curious as to how many hours that oil cooler has seen.

So am I! Outwardly looks good - I’ll do an autopsy and report back. Will check the log books to see if I can find record of replacement by POs.

 

[twistedtree]

Being unfamiliar with Lehmans, is that a motor oil cooler, or a gear oil cooler? I've never seen a raw water cooler motor oil cooler.

 

[rslifkin]

Being unfamiliar with Lehmans, is that a motor oil cooler, or a gear oil cooler? I've never seen a raw water cooler motor oil cooler.

Raw water cooled engine oil coolers are common on older engines, especially gassers. Mine are done that way (water off the water pump goes to the trans cooler, then engine oil cooler, then heat exchanger). The Lehman is an old enough design that I wouldn't be surprised if it's done the same way.

 

[psneeld]

I believe American Diesel has a kit to change the motor oil cooler from raw to coolant.

 

[twistedtree]

Raw water cooled engine oil coolers are common on older engines, especially gassers. Mine are done that way (water off the water pump goes to the trans cooler, then engine oil cooler, then heat exchanger). The Lehman is an old enough design that I wouldn't be surprised if it's done the same way.

Thanks. Always learning (hopefully)

 

[SteveK]

Temp fix with hose clamp and material at hand like an old hose over that spot?
Duct tape? Not a concern until back home to do it right.

 

[psneeld]

I don't recommend trying a patch with a clamp...it may just weaken or open the brazed joint further.

 

[SteveK]

I don't recommend trying a patch with a clamp...it may just weaken or open the brazed joint further.

Fair comment.
Then again you may not have used a garbage bag at the end of heat exchanger, under old style with rubber cap which split to go 210 nautical miles before replacement installed.
I think like MacGyver for temp repairs.

 

[psneeld]

I too MacGyver many things...but you do have to be careful not to make them worse.

 

[ofer]

boat owners with MacGyver skills are more likely to be long term boat owners and more likely to get home without assist.

I am proud to be part of that community.

 

[socalrider]

Update: my part delivery guy has COVID (possibly). So it’s MacGuyver time!

Thinking a thick smear of JB Weld around the circumference of the joint and wrapped in duct tape.

 

[ofer]

Update: my part delivery guy has COVID (possibly). So it’s MacGuyver time!

Thinking a thick smear of JB Weld around the circumference of the joint and wrapped in duct tape.

I would wait in Avalon that the guy recovers from covid

it doesn't look like a high volume leak. I would just leave as is.

 

[rslifkin]

A good smear of JB weld and let it cure for a day before running it will likely stop the leak until you can get a new one.

 

[psneeld]

Many seams build up that green corrosion goo....I wouldn't do a thing unless you see actual liquid at the seam sitting or running.

 

[socalrider]

Done and dusted. Putting my faith in JB Weld.

I’ll check in with American Diesel on the freshwater conversion kit. It does seem silly to cool the transmission and oil with raw water, particularly given that I probably don’t need either cooler for normal running (8kts, 1700rpm).

 

[ofer]

Done and dusted. Putting my faith in JB Weld.

I’ll check in with American Diesel on the freshwater conversion kit. It does seem silly to cool the transmission and oil with raw water, particularly given that I probably don’t need either cooler for normal running (8kts, 1700rpm).

that fix will not last more than 10 years.

 

[diver dave]

boat owners with MacGyver skills are more likely to be long term boat owners and more likely to get home without assist.



I am proud to be part of that community.

Me too! This would make a good thread. In my 20’s, on a friends boat, the one and only fan belt broke. I affixed some anchor line instead and it got us back. Got a zillion more.

 

[STB]

I may have lost track of the thread, if so sorry!

But, if the problem is just salt crystals at a seal, why not clean them up and monitor until you get back? And, what is there to JB weld? Or, am I misunderstanding the situation?

I guess if this is a leaky gasket....it seems to be a really slow leak...and I've seen those go on for years. Likely isn't new.

I agree it should be fixed. And, I'd have the JB weld and silicone tape ready. But seems like sanding it all around and sealing it up will make it harder to get it apart to clean inspect and get ready for use as a spare if good enough.

Again, sorry if I am misunderstanding the problem or status.

 

[psneeld]

On some small coolerer like the ones on my Lehman and the 454 gassers I have driven, no gaskets.


The end nipples are pressed on and brazed/soldered.


On the assistance towboat gasser, had one have the end cap come off one day when I throttled up not far from the dock. Needless to say it was no good as all cooling water now into the bilge instead of the main heat exchanger.



The was no evidence of brazing/solder there at all. A factory defect, but had worked for years that way.


I got a buddy to tow me back, ran to the parking lot and gabbed a piece of scrap PVC. Cut off a length to match the cooler and 2 hose clamps and back in business. Only lost 1/2 hour from failure to underway again. Ran tows all day bypassing the cooler (it was both engine and tranny oil) and just watched temps and changed the oils within a few weeks.

 

[STB]

Psneeld,

Ah. Thanks. Sorry. I did forget what we were talking about. The word seal was used in the thread. Sounds like it was a press or weld or braze or something. Thanks.