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Old 11-11-2016, 07:29 PM   #21
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Ok.so some mannuals say retorque, some say no. The "experts" say...well it depends...and have heard AD say as long as 2500 hr before worrying about anything.

So what does the average guy do when the history of the engine is unknown....and what references would help clear that up?

So even if you replace everything....500 hrs? 1000 hrs? 2500 hrs?.... or wait till something happens?
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Old 11-11-2016, 08:51 PM   #22
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I have become one with my engines embracing their needs have applied custom appliance to rotate and regap so I know valve is correct and applied test instruments to have them speak to me and I go from there , yes I love them those old engines are quite special ..not just power but also friends I look after...
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Old 11-12-2016, 10:33 AM   #23
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I have become one with my engines embracing their needs have applied custom appliance to rotate and regap so I know valve is correct and applied test instruments to have them speak to me and I go from there , yes I love them those old engines are quite special ..not just power but also friends I look after...

I'm not sure what you're saying here, but I like the way you said it.
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Old 01-19-2017, 10:58 AM   #24
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Just for my own info, where did the .015" clearance and set COLD come from? My manual only gives .015 inlet and .018 exhaust set at "normal Operating temperature" I sure like the Cold set idea, much more comfortable in a cool engine room.
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Old 01-19-2017, 11:03 AM   #25
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Some of the professional engine guys have said for Lehmsns, the difference betweenn hot and cold...no big deal.

The 120 and the 135 are different so make sure you are getting the right clearances.

My 120 was set to 135 clearances by mistake the first 2 years I owners her, American Diesel said no big deal, but the other way around may have been more trouble.....so close tolerances are nice to meet...but real life experiences show that slop here and there is less than critical.
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Old 01-19-2017, 11:10 AM   #26
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I guess I answered my own question, I dug out the Ford service manual and it states .015 for both valves on a NA engines hot or cold. Interesting to know how Lehman came up with .015 and .018 in the Owners Manual?
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Old 01-19-2017, 11:40 AM   #27
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I guess I answered my own question, I dug out the Ford service manual and it states .015 for both valves on a NA engines hot or cold. Interesting to know how Lehman came up with .015 and .018 in the Owners Manual?

I have several Ford Lehman manuals and various data in them is all over the place. Like you, the manual I just looked in says .015 for Intake and Exhaust for NA engines. Yet in this same manual, it says to check the valves at the first 50 hours and then it never indicates that they need to be checked again! Another manual I have (my hardcopy) says to check them every 600 hrs. I believe the info that they can be done cold has come from American Diesel. (At least that's what they told me). I think their exact words were "That will get you close enough". One way to prove if its necessary to do hot is to do it hot just as the Owner's manual states, then check them again when the engine is stone cold. If they're still within reason, then it could be done cold.

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Old 01-19-2017, 12:37 PM   #28
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Call American Diesel or Bomac...

The specs for the 135 are different from the 120

I was told by American Diesel (and yes they have been known to give different info to different people)...

120 Lehman
Cold Exhaust .010-.014 Intake .014-.018
Hot Exhaust .012 Intake .015

Probably why they told me a 120 set at the 135 .015 is better than a 135 set at 120 specs because you might burn the exhaust valve. Not being a full time mechanic I cant say that's true... but others confirmed the thought.

I have at least 4 manuals for Lehmans and they are all a little different. I find it frustrating not knowing which one to believe.
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Old 01-19-2017, 01:45 PM   #29
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Pretty rare for intake to have more clearance than exhaust, are you sure about that?
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Old 01-19-2017, 02:13 PM   #30
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Pretty rare for intake to have more clearance than exhaust, are you sure about that?
What Am Diesel gave me and what is in my Saber Lehman manual...just quadruple checked.
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Old 01-19-2017, 04:44 PM   #31
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Got it. Just did not want bad info to stand. Some engines do have the clearances that way, just rare.
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Old 01-19-2017, 08:34 PM   #32
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My 1986 SABRE manual for the 120hp Dorset:
Intake .015 Exhaust .012

My 1987 LEHMAN manual for the 135hp Dover:
Intake .015 Exhaust .015

All adjustments at operating temp.
(Note: Turbo is .018)

These are both 6cyl 380 cu in engines but the Dover's had closer tolerances and larger ports thus higher hp. I believe Lehman distributed both but put chrome valve covers on the Dover.

I don't believe .003 would make a huge difference in a 40 or 50 year old engine unless you were doing a complete valve job.

-Gary
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Old 04-25-2017, 03:16 PM   #33
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Set my valves on my 90's to .015. They were at .020-.022. This was probably the first time in 4,000 hrs.
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Old 04-25-2017, 03:35 PM   #34
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I took Bob Smith's last seminar in October 2015. We set the valves cold and then started up the engine. Bob said it sounded great. He said that he could tell if they were out of adjustment by the sound. He was extremely knowledgeable about the engines.
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Old 11-17-2019, 12:30 AM   #35
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Being a diesel mechanic for many years, Iíve never retorqued head bolts, nor have I recommended it.
As far as adjusting valves, there are many ways. As long as you are on the inner base circle you are good.
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Old 11-17-2019, 07:40 PM   #36
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Whatís inner base circle?
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Old 04-29-2020, 06:08 PM   #37
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Thank you for all your replies to my post. However, we seem to have missed the target. My question is - when I removed the rocker cover and I was looking at the valves, I couldn't determine which valve in each cylinder was the intake and which one was the exhaust. I need to know because they require different gaps. Is the valve closest to the front of the engine the intake and does the relationship remain the same for all the rest of the cylinders?
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Old 04-29-2020, 07:12 PM   #38
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Thank you for all your replies to my post. However, we seem to have missed the target. My question is - when I removed the rocker cover and I was looking at the valves, I couldn't determine which valve in each cylinder was the intake and which one was the exhaust. I need to know because they require different gaps. Is the valve closest to the front of the engine the intake and does the relationship remain the same for all the rest of the cylinders?
I donít see another post of yours in this thread so I donít know what engine youíre referring to since several engines are spoken about in this thread. If youíre talking about a Ford Dover engine (90 and 135 hp) then all valves are to be set at .015Ē hot or cold according to my manual. In any case for Dorset or Dover engines the valves do NOT repeat the same sequence from front to back.

Ken
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Old 04-29-2020, 07:18 PM   #39
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Ken, I have a Lehman 120 - I believe it is a Dorset model but don't quote me on that. I have the manual and I believe it has to be hot before you can adjust the valves. The gap is different for intake than for exhaust. My problem is that I don't know how to identify the intake valves from the exhaust valves.
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Old 04-30-2020, 05:13 AM   #40
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My advice is to download an engine manual. Its states pretty clearly which are which and how to to do the gap adjustments. That way it is all right in front of you. Just did this myself.
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