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Old 02-02-2017, 05:47 PM   #21
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I think you guys are vastly over-analyzing this. Use a shaft brush. They are not cheap but they last for years, which is more than you can say for prop zincs. You don't need a prop zinc. You could add a belt to your suspenders and use a shaft zinc but that is not essential either. Just keep the transom zinc free of growth and be very sure the electrical connections to the very poor-conducting stainless bolts is as good as you can get. I had zero galvanic corrosion with my 'glass 32.
This made me think about going the shaft brush route on my boat. Found one on Defender Marine site for less than $20 sound reasonable to me.

I have a prop nut zinc sizeF lasts 2 or more years but if the shaft brush transom zinc setup will make it last longer I am game. JohnP
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Old 02-02-2017, 09:10 PM   #22
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I admit to being confused...

I have always used shaft zincs on my boat and have never had one go missing. The only time I have used a prop zinc is for my sailboats Autoprop. To me, shaft zincs seem simple, effective, foolproof (the fool in question being me), and relatively inexpensive.
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Old 02-02-2017, 10:17 PM   #23
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Hey Ted, I noticed that your rudder zincs are right in the propwash. So were mine until I moved them to the bottom of the rudder. I now get way less vibration in the rudder and I'm sure it will make the rudder bearings and the bushings in the steering ram last longer. Try moving them to the bottom of the rudder next time you haul.
Okisollo was my favourite from way back in my teens? She used to be berthed at the West Van Yacht Club in Fisherman's Cove - I still can't decide if she looked better with a flying bridge (not that my opinion matters!). I don't have an f.b. either.
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Old 02-02-2017, 10:43 PM   #24
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Hi Xsbank,

Rudder anodes are matched on the other side too.
I don't notice any vibration in the steering, maybe due to the
low prop rpm? Cruise at 850 to 0875 rpm with a 3:1 reduction,
also have an angle iron, about 1 1/2, welded down the trailing
edge.
Will look into relocating the mounting bolts next time.
I like the looks without the dodger, there are still a set of
controls up there but I haven't used them yet.

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Old 02-03-2017, 01:37 AM   #25
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Mine is only 36"... but it does only turn pretty slow. I've forgotten the ratio, I'll have to take a look. Those two in your photo look pretty shot anyway, try putting one larger one above or below the stream from the wheel and see if it makes your maneuvering any easier? Where do you haul out? O.P?
Did I send you that ancient black and white I've got of O.?
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Old 02-03-2017, 02:11 AM   #26
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Those anodes are new, just distorted by water, visually.

She is quite responsive to the rudder, just a bit too responsive
to a 3 to 5 knot cross current at the floats in Browns Bay, have
to wait for slack water and judge back eddies.

I hauled out at Tarkanen Marine Ways in Sointula.
They were hoping to have one of the ways operating again
last month.

Yes, thanks, you did send me the photo.

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Old 02-05-2017, 03:34 PM   #27
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"We have plenty of room between the transmissions and stuffing boxes."

Plenty of room is good as some few trannys move the shaft back and forth when shifting.
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Old 02-05-2017, 03:41 PM   #28
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I admit to being confused...

I have always used shaft zincs on my boat and have never had one go missing. .
of course, there are variables in the equation. Shaft rpm, engine time between haulings (mechanical/erosion life), time between haulings (electrical life), and any issues with ac grounding stray currents.
There is another advantage of shaft zincs over shaft brush and that is one more item that can keep the shaft on the boat if the coupler lets go!; (if ahead of the strut)
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Old 02-05-2017, 03:52 PM   #29
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of course, there are variables in the equation. Shaft rpm, engine time between haulings (mechanical/erosion life), time between haulings (electrical life), and any issues with ac grounding stray currents.
There is another advantage of shaft zincs over shaft brush and that is one more item that can keep the shaft on the boat if the coupler lets go!; (if ahead of the strut)
Just put a collar zinc in front of the stuffing box.

Then the shaft can't even back out of the coupler if it gets loose.
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Old 02-05-2017, 03:56 PM   #30
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I admit to being confused...

I have always used shaft zincs on my boat and have never had one go missing. The only time I have used a prop zinc is for my sailboats Autoprop. To me, shaft zincs seem simple, effective, foolproof (the fool in question being me), and relatively inexpensive.
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Just put a collar zinc in front of the stuffing box.

Then the shaft can't even back out of the coupler if it gets loose.
THat's a good idea.
I almost lost a boat once, when the shaft moved forward an inch. It had dripless shaft logs and the seal went forward with the shaft, the bellows/seal surface lost contact, and man was there water coming in!
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Old 02-05-2017, 03:59 PM   #31
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Xsbank and Ted,
I moved my zincs out of the propwash mostly for added efficiency. Propwash is some high velocity water and anything in it's path is going to want to go aft w great force. So one could say the rudder is trying to pull the boat backwards. So rudders in the prop wash is very high drag. But now that I think of it I did have rudder vibration and haven't noticed it since about the time I moved the Zincs up.

I did'nt have room at the bottom so moved mine to the top of the rudder. And closer to the hull may find water flow to be less due to the drag of the hull.
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Old 02-06-2017, 01:42 AM   #32
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There you go. Did you plug your shaft hole in the rudder?
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