Ford Lehman 120 Stainless Steel Exhaust Elbow

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Thank-you for the advice. I did call ADI for their recommendation but the person I spoke to didn't have a definitive answer. After posting my question I found a 'fastener material galvanic compatibility table' on the engineersedge.com site. It confirms what socalrider advised. I"ll use grade 5 or 8, anti-seize and retighten yearly.
Thanks guys!
 
I have an exhaust elbow fix in my future. I think the first owner had a custom-made stainless exhaust fitted (pre 1991). The first owner was in California and the heat lagging has a California business name on it. The lagging was removed for these photos. A stainless pipe was welded to a modified cast iron exhaust elbow so that the cooling water is injected well down stream. You can tell where the water enters on the backside because the stainless isn't discolored from heat.

The engine was out and rebuilt in 2019, so I know that the exhaust was disconnected at that time. What surprised me was that when removing the lagging I could see that one of the 4 exhaust elbow bolts (top right) was missing its head having been broken flush with the elbow. I could see that the fitting had apparently been hit with a cold chisel to remove (it shows on the weld).

The bolt could have been broken when the elbow was reattached and owner or mechanic decided not to fix, but who knows. The whole things is caked in rust, including the severed area of the bolt, so I can't really tell how long the problem (or soon to be problem) has existed.

If the stainless exhaust pipe is removed and is okay, why not cut off the cast iron piece and simply weld on a thick stainless plate with the same bolt pattern? (And why wasn't that done in the first place?) Mating to the original cast iron might have saved a few bucks back when, but not in the long run. I could get a new stainless elbow and cut it up to fit, but that seems like a waste. Maybe not depending on shop fees for drafting, milling, etc., for plate stainless.

The modification looks like it could put some stress on the attachment point, but it doesn't seem to have been a problem. No leaks at present even with only three bolts and the cast iron appears to be decades old.

Doesn't seem to be a good place to wait until failure to address this. Any suggestions appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • Exhaust riser.jpg
    Exhaust riser.jpg
    101.1 KB · Views: 20
  • Exhaust riser close.jpg
    Exhaust riser close.jpg
    99.8 KB · Views: 20
Once you get that baby off and cleaned you'll be able to judge the condition of
that junction. I agree that it could be problematic but it seems to have held up.

If you decide to make a new one that flange is so simple it could be made fairly
cheaply out of stainless and then would last for many more years.
I would probably replace most of the tubing with proper bends at the same time.
 
When I changed the elbow on my lehman 120, the mounting end of the manifold had some corrosion on the bottom. I had it machined to get back to a good surface again.
 
Marco, that kluged mess surely looks to take up a lot more space than the neat, clean appearance of the normal elbow which requires no lagging. Is that high arch necessary?
 

Attachments

  • DSC00154 (FILEminimizer).jpg
    DSC00154 (FILEminimizer).jpg
    120.3 KB · Views: 23
Marco, that kluged mess surely looks to take up a lot more space than the neat, clean appearance of the normal elbow which requires no lagging. Is that high arch necessary?

At some point the exhaust hose should be 12-18" above the water line. I had a similar contraption hanging off the exhaust elbow. I now have mine rise after the centek water lift mufflers. All hose, no custom welding, easier to maintain, less vibration on the exhaust elbow, and in general a better design than the previous homemade contraption.
 
At some point the exhaust hose should be 12-18" above the water line. I had a similar contraption hanging off the exhaust elbow. I now have mine rise after the centek water lift mufflers. All hose, no custom welding, easier to maintain, less vibration on the exhaust elbow, and in general a better design than the previous homemade contraption.

My photo does not show the rise I installed after the muffler using exhaust hose, but here is another showing the installation which far better than what Marco has. No custom welding yada,yada,yada.
 

Attachments

  • holding tank 2.jpg
    holding tank 2.jpg
    93.5 KB · Views: 20
Rich, you should edit out those gas containers before someone notices. Oops too late :facepalm:

Ya think? Funny catch. Those were my waste oil containers, only filled when changine oil in engines and genny. That was quite a few years ago. Poor old boat - still dunno what became of it.
 
Good answer. Yes, you shared many pictures of it. It would be nice to know if it is in happy hands. Maybe too well cared for so the new owners have no questions to ask on a forum.
 
Greetings,
Our Cheoy Lee came with an OEM factory system similar to but much more elegant than Mr. MF's. Exhaust elbow is original as it never sees sea water and the injection point is well after on the downturn of the lagged exhaust tubing. A bit awkward to work around but the engine will never hydro lock if ever one cranks it over too much.
 
Good answer. Yes, you shared many pictures of it. It would be nice to know if it is in happy hands. Maybe too well cared for so the new owners have no questions to ask on a forum.

Alas, I have seen photos of a semi-wrecked Calypso in Galveston.
 
A bit awkward to work around but the engine will never hydro lock if ever one cranks it over too much.

I think that was the issue that my exhaust system was meant to address. Kind of odd since my 4 cyl Lehman turns over just by looking at it. Same starter as the 6 cyl. but 33% less resistance. I don't think I've ever run the starter more than a few seconds. Even less now that somebody pointed out the cold start feature on the injector pump.

Yes, high-rise pipe isn't smooth bends, but it is only 254 cubic inches at 2,000 rpm through a 3 inch pipe. No need to hot rod the exhaust with mandrel bends.

Looks like I'll just tear into it and see what I have.
 
Back
Top Bottom