What's a next-gen anchor?

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"but it is based on 50 knot winds, and truth is very few boaters will ever see true 50 knot winds at anchor."

This is probably true , but the load on an anchor from a larger boat pulling a 4 or 5 ft wake can yank an anchor right out.

Some anchorages are alongside a waterway.

That is... If the rode is already pretty darn taught.

Sufficient scope with chain, in not extremely heavy current nor wind, leaves downward chain-length radius lift-room for a boat to be pulled up and down by large wake without that energy being wholly transferred to the anchor's "set" position.

Similarly... Sufficient scope of stretchable nylon line [especially when having ample chain lead to anchor's shank] provides considerable damper on energy from large wake being transferred to anchor's "set" position.
 
Ventana;84797 TF is interesting in that I notice quite a few professional mariners on here. Even more interesting is that it seems like the ones I feel would have the most information to offer are oftentimes some of the quietest in terms of posting. .[/QUOTE said:
Boy, aint that the truth! The question is "how does one recognize the pros from the vicarious who may be well informed but really lacking in experience? :confused:
 
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Boy, aint that the truth! The question is "how does one recognize the pros from the vicarious who may be well informed but really lacking in experience? :confused:

For them [posters] that belong to the "vicarious" sector...

It kinda becomes like kids playing telephone at a party... in that... message at end of the line may be a whole lot different that message that began at beginning of the line. lol

However, if post is from a "pro" that has true experience... I'd call that "straight from the horse's mouth"! :thumb:
 
Maybe the pros recognize that 99% of what is discussed is fluff, opinion, or personal preference.


Maybe despite all the "suggestions" or "advice"....different conditions, bottom, boat, andchor, anchorage, etc can determine as to what they think is important and the rest requires either luck or vigilance.


Also who is a "pro" on anchoring? I've done way more "cruising type" anchoring as a cruiser than anchoring as a paid mariner. So what of my experiences are pertinent here?


If yo do some research, collect some data and write articles or books about anchoring....how does that really fit in? Well that certainly helps, but I know a lot of experienced mariners (pro and amateur) that often disagree with what is written....especially if presented as "fact" (because there are just too many variables or it's really only an "opinion").
 
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HaHa You're an active TF member and you don't like opinions. Haha again.
 
Taint nutten rong whit "opinions"

Many here will yelp against my comic-slang spelling in sentence above... but in my opinion... a little humor under most circumstances keeps the "wheels greased!

With that said - Here is what I feel is my [the] most important opinion about anchoring [not anchors - mind you]... but rather the activity of "anchoring".

Correctly "Deploying and Setting" any anchor having any type rode in any type conditions is the singularly most important factor for best capability to have any anchor best perform its intended function.

Happy Anchor[ing] Daze! - Art :speed boat:
 
Had the thought and couldn’t resist.
Well I see you only mentioned opinions once.
And I do like you’re observance that even books written by the very knowledgeable even disagree. Chapman’s says for rodes only a few feet of chain and then nylon. But I’m sure some books will say all chain. It’s a heavy subject.
 
Manufacturers recommendation is spelled out well in the note under the Bruce anchor sizing chart: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nrRel8XGP...JFTKakGhFmA/s1600/Galvanized+Bruce+Anchor.jpg


Ours is sized as recommended because we aren't anchoring out in winter. If/when we start winter cruising we'll have to get gear for a worst case scenario, which around here is 50 knot northeasterly outflow changing to 60 knot southwesterly inflow in less than a day.
 
I have a 22lb that’s modified. Basically I cut most of the fwd part of the center fluke off.
And I have a 33lb Lewmar Claw. Only thing I’ve done w it is to do grind of considerable metal to make the flukes sharper. Haven’t tried it yet but I’m assuming it will work as well as most Claws. And I’d anchor in a 50 knot gale wit if more or less was necessary and w watches all night.

Not much windage on our boat and not much more on yours Murray. Is your Claw a 33 or a 44lb anchor. I assumed a 33 above.

If it were me I’d be thinking about a 27 to 34lb Excel. For ... in a word .. dependability. Setting, veering and reversing especially so. I have a PS anchor test on veering w anchors. I’ll take a look. I can’t seem to copy it for posting.
 
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I have a 22lb that’s modified. Basically I cut most of the fwd part of the center fluke off.
And I have a 33lb Lewmar Claw. Only thing I’ve done w it is to do grind of considerable metal to make the flukes sharper. Haven’t tried it yet but I’m assuming it will work as well as most Claws. And I’d anchor in a 50 knot gale wit if more or less was necessary and w watches all night.

Not much windage on our boat and not much more on yours Murray. Is your Claw a 33 or a 44lb anchor. I assumed a 33 above.

If it were me I’d be thinking about a 27 to 34lb Excel. For ... in a word .. dependability. Setting, veering and reversing especially so. I have a PS anchor test on veering w anchors. I’ll take a look. I can’t seem to copy it for posting.


Badger came with a 7.5Kg Bruce ( :eek: ) which we immediately replaced with a 10Kg Lewmar Claw and heavier chain & nylon rode. Been good so far 3 season cruising, with about 30 knots being the strongest winds at anchor. Riding sail helped immensely to reduce shock loads.

Agree with the next size up Sarca Excel as storm anchor, especially for its resetting abilities.
 
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Here is the ranking ... setting and holding power combined.
This test is a bit over 18 years old.
1. Spade 2. Bulwagga 3. CQR 4. Barnacle 5. Delta

6. Danforth 7. WM Danforth 8. Fortress 9. Vetus 10 . Bruce

Please provide link to the test. Thanks! Art
 
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Here is the ranking ... setting and holding power combined.
This test is a bit over 18 years old.
1. Spade
2. Bulwagga
3. CQR
4. Barnacle
5. Delta
6. Danforth Deep Set
7. West Marine Danforth
8. Fortress
9. Vetus
10. Bruce


Art;
Practical Sailor Jan 01 copy-1 copy pdf (page 1 of 5)
That help?
 
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Here is the ranking ... setting and holding power combined.
This test is a bit over 18 years old.
1. Spade
2. Bulwagga
3. CQR
4. Barnacle
5. Delta
6. Danforth Deep Set
7. West Marine Danforth
8. Fortress
9. Vetus
10. Bruce

What / whose test? Can we access the test's stats. Or, are you pulling from memory?
 
Hey Art my memory's not that good.
It's a Practical Sailor magazine article. I'm assuming that's the big reason I can't post it. But my low PC skill level is a very significant reason too. But years ago I managed to get it on my i-Mac. So the stack-up I show is right off the article.
Do you see more than one next-gen anchor on the list? This is a dramatic display of how quickly anchor design has advanced in the last 18 to 20 years.
Mag is Jan. 15th 2001
 
"For a boat length 31-35ft: 7/8 inch nylon rope with 35 ft of 5/16 inch high test or BBB chain"

"Nylon stretches by about 25% at 50% of its breaking strength and recovers from heavy loads better than braided line".


A look at the holding power of most of these anchors shows the problem.

No anchor creates even 10% of the force required to stretch 7/8 nylon.

So the tiny anchor with huge thick line gets no shock absorbing from the nylon.

Many folks use 2 anchors on the bow rollers , one for normal O' nights and the second for stormy weather.

Although chafe can be a hassle most nights 1/2 nylon is fine.


My opinion only.
 
"For a boat length 31-35ft: 7/8 inch nylon rope with 35 ft of 5/16 inch high test or BBB chain"

"Nylon stretches by about 25% at 50% of its breaking strength and recovers from heavy loads better than braided line".


A look at the holding power of most of these anchors shows the problem.

No anchor creates even 10% of the force required to stretch 7/8 nylon.

So the tiny anchor with huge thick line gets no shock absorbing from the nylon.

Many folks use 2 anchors on the bow rollers , one for normal O' nights and the second for stormy weather.

Although chafe can be a hassle most nights 1/2 nylon is fine.


My opinion only.

To back up your opinion, as well as to add a bit o' my own...

With groggie eyes... I read that entire copy with categorized "recommended" stat list last night at 12 PM; just before hitting my pillow.

Some items hit me as odd to say the least. Makes me wonder what type [months, years or decades] of "real world" boating, anchor equipment handling and anchoring experience the author had as background??

One item mentioned was what I feel is approx 33% more than actually needed length of chain from shank to line. Although more chain can never be a bad thing... throughout my life I've always been a hands-on anchor setter and retriever [with engines running/maneuvering and also electric windlass assistance on bow]. So... too much chain can add too much weightlifting physical stress during end of scope for anchor retrieval - as well as during anchor's hand guided slow descent while first anchoring and boat is gently moving backwards ... unless boat is set up with full-on rope to chain automatic windlass capability.

The other is as you mention... 7/8" three strand nylon line... holy cow; this author anchoring a boat in the 30' to 40' range or in the 60 to 80 foot range?

For decades and decades [1950's onward] my family [myself included] used three strand nylon. Our boats mostly ranged in the 23' to 38' length. Diameter of anchor line was adjusted in comparison to size and "sail" of each boat. 5/8" diameter was the preferred for the largest scale of our boats. Did have a 3/4" rode once we used for a season on dad's 38' sedan, raised deck flybridge sportfisher. We realized that was overkill and went back to 5/8" line. For nights we place a long length chafe cover [sliced rubber hose] onto anchor line at contact point with metal.

But... 7/8" line on a boat in the 30' + category is IMO considerable overkill. And as you intoned - that grand a diameter defeats the purpose of using 3 strand nylon's stretchability as the set-anchor's shock absorber in high winds.

Happy "Anchoring" Daze - Art :speed boat:
 
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As a more realistic measure, most 3 strand and 8 plait nylon stretches about 10% at 20% of breaking load. Double braid stretches about half as much.

Generally, I'd size for planning not to exceed 20% of breaking strength in the worst weather you plan to anchor in. For my boat, that puts me at either 5/8" or 3/4", depending on who's estimates of wind load, etc. you look at. I'll probably stay with 5/8" just because nobody is sure 3/4" works in my windlass (and I haven't had a chance to test that).

If more stretch is needed, you can always put out more line. Even if you're only loading the line enough to stretch 2%, 2% of 150 feet is a lot more than 2% of 50. Or you can use a snubber (made from smaller line) like you would with all chain to get more stretch when putting out more line isn't an option.

But in general, I'd rather come up a little short on stretch and have to add more in some situations than end up loading the nylon too heavily where there's more chafe concern, more heat, more risk of failure, etc.
 
As a more realistic measure, most 3 strand and 8 plait nylon stretches about 10% at 20% of breaking load. Double braid stretches about half as much.

Generally, I'd size for planning not to exceed 20% of breaking strength in the worst weather you plan to anchor in. For my boat, that puts me at either 5/8" or 3/4", depending on who's estimates of wind load, etc. you look at. I'll probably stay with 5/8" just because nobody is sure 3/4" works in my windlass (and I haven't had a chance to test that).

If more stretch is needed, you can always put out more line. Even if you're only loading the line enough to stretch 2%, 2% of 150 feet is a lot more than 2% of 50. Or you can use a snubber (made from smaller line) like you would with all chain to get more stretch when putting out more line isn't an option.

But in general, I'd rather come up a little short on stretch and have to add more in some situations than end up loading the nylon too heavily where there's more chafe concern, more heat, more risk of failure, etc.

I remember like it was yesterday... 14 yrs +/- old at the time.

Round about 1966 we pulled into Dering Harbor for protection from oncoming storm. Dering Harbor is a village in the Town of Shelter Island, Suffolk County, LI, New York. Located on the north side of Shelter Island.

Weather prediction suddenly altered from "high wind storm" approaching to hurricane winds anticipated. Dad's boat was a really nice [he and I had spent years restoring it] 38' raised deck, sedan with flybridge. A sport fisher design we used as a family cruiser. She was a highly seaworthy tough-built baby with single 185 hp Perkins Diesel power [which we replaced as her new engine after removing it's original old and tired 155 hp Nordburg Knight gasser.]

It was late afternoon when we pulled up close as possible [leaving enough swing room] to the lee of land in Dering; only a few other boats were at anchor, none too close. We very carefully/firmly-backed-down set a big Danforth anchor. Rode consisted of some 15 feet chain with 5/8" nylon line.

As the sun set... heavy wind had rain pummeling our boat. By late evening the storm winds were getting too serious; dad started the engine. By midnight wind gusts were ferocious. We had to yell for hear one another. As the wind would gust higher dad kept the engine in gear to take tension off the line and anchor. I clearly recall the spot light on front of bridge illuminating the millions of horizontal moving raindrops. Could at times barely see the white anchor line stretched straight out taught coming off bow.

Depending on gusts and engine power that dad applied we could feel the anchor line stretch. As a gust would subside the boat would pull forward as the nylon line's stretch relaxed. Dad was constantly adjusting forward power in respect to momentary needs; his prime intent was to make sure that Danforth stayed set.

By morning dawn the storm was greatly subsiding. The sun actually peaked through and skys began to clear. Looking around the harbor we could see boats to our rear that had dragged anchor and were up against land. The dock area looked a mess as we spied it with binoculars.

Pulling that Danforth up and out of its deep set position was a task. More than once I needed to cleat and chock the anchor line straight vertical while dad [on the bridge] pulled the boat forward over the anchor to break it free.

News reports reported winds over 100 mph. I can just guess at how many mph the strongest gusts were.

We did good. The boat and we five were safe to travel onward. I will never forget that experience!
 
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I took a moment to test the stretch of my longest spring line 5/8ths that was 8 plait "Brait".

It was in Alaska on the town floats. I tied the line to the bull rail a few feet aft of the boat (30') and took the other end down to the cross float and pulled on the line. It was probably 32-35' and it seemed more like a rubber band than a nylon line. Seemed like 2-3' of stretch but I'm just guessing. Try it yourself. The notion that one may need to anchor on a extra long scope seems ridiculous to me.
 
Thank you Soio Valley'
But here is the nearly full article W/O the advertisement. At least most all of it. The pics I can't seem to copy and paste and there is some picture comments missing.


• In the December 1999 issue, on which of 17 anchors set and hold best in mud. Tops for setting was the Delta with six anchors tied for second; for holding power, the rank was the Bar- nacle, CQR and Bulwagga.
At the end of those three test sessions, the sand/mud holding power was combined and the top three anchors were the Spade, Bulwagga and CQR.
Because considerable information about how anchors behave is includ- ed in the above, it is our opinion that all of these reports, plus this new one, should be read before selecting an anchor.
Consider, for instance, this find- ing. While setting anchors with an electric winch and measuring the load on a dynamometer, it was noted that even moderate readings on the dyna- mometer immediately started down when the hauling ceased. This indi- cates clearly that the anchor is moving...minutely, of course, but if
Above: Practical Sailor’s editor, Dan Spurr, wearing waders, indicates with his right hand the distance traveled by the Spade anchor when the rode lead was changed. In his left hand is a fiberglass stick used to mark the original position. The Spade anchor, which has a yellow face, appears to be out of the water, but is submerged. The anchor and the two rodes indicate how easy it was to closely observe the anchors.
subjected to some tugging in a roily harbor, the minute creeping can be- come what is called dragging.
For even more complete coverage of this important subject, other re- ports have been published on anchor rode loads; swivel shackles; chain tests; rope/chain splices; sentinels; bow rollers; tests of many makes of rope anchor rodes, and a two-part report on anchor windlasses.
Makes Now Involved
Practical Sailor started out several summers ago with 11 anchors. That

W hen a sailor hooks his beloved boat to good, old Mother Earth, he hopes his anchor will stay put—for lunch, for a good night’s sleep, to ride out a storm or to keep the boat safe while
unattended.
If done well, the anchor system
should give him the cherished peace- of-mind.
However, there’s one threat that nags at him, especially when he’s not aboard.
It occurs when the wind or current sharply changes direction, a not un- common phenomenon. That means that the well-set anchor must some- how re-align itself to the new head- ing. Two questions present them- selves:
1. Does the anchor, without losing much of its grip, simply swivel in the mud or sand and steady up?
2. Or does the anchor pull free, flip- ping on its back or roll up on edge, and then re-set itself?
Seeking answers to these questions produced some dramatic results for this latest report in Practical Sailor’s continuing series on the in-the-water performance of about two dozens makes and types of anchors. Rather than one big test aimed at finding the perfect, all-purpose anchor, Practical Sailor has approached this subject carefully. Three years of work thus far has produced these published reports:
• In the February 1, 1998 issue, on which of 11 different anchors set best in sand. The top three, in order, were the Bulwagga, Spade and Bruce.
• In the January 1, 1999 issue, on
which of 15 had the best holding power in sand. Top-ranked were the Spade, Bulwagga and CQR.
• In the December 1999 issue, on which of 17 anchors set and hold best in mud. Tops for setting was the Delta with six anchors tied for second; for holding power, the rank was the Bar- nacle, CQR and Bulwagga.
At the end of those three test sessions, the sand/mud holding power was combined and the top three anchors were the Spade, Bulwagga and CQR.
Because considerable information about how anchors behave is includ- ed in the above, it is our opinion that all of these reports, plus this new one, should be read before selecting an anchor.
Consider, for instance, this find- ing. While setting anchors with an electric winch and measuring the load on a dynamometer, it was noted that even moderate readings on the dyna- mometer immediately started down when the hauling ceased. This indi- cates clearly that the anchor is moving...minutely, of course, but if
Above: Practical Sailor’s editor, Dan Spurr, wearing waders, indicates with his right hand the distance traveled by the Spade anchor when the rode lead was changed. In his left hand is a fiberglass stick used to mark the original position. The Spade anchor, which has a yellow face, appears to be out of the water, but is submerged. The anchor and the two rodes indicate how easy it was to closely observe the anchors.
subjected to some tugging in a roily harbor, the minute creeping can be- come what is called dragging.
For even more complete coverage of this important subject, other re- ports have been published on anchor rode loads; swivel shackles; chain tests; rope/chain splices; sentinels; bow rollers; tests of many makes of rope anchor rodes, and a two-part report on anchor windlasses.
Makes Now Involved
Practical Sailor started out several summers ago with 11 anchors. That......

Page 2.
Above: Left to right, the Danforth, Fortress, Nautical Engineering, Vetus and West Marine Performance2 are remarkably similar in appearance and performance, except for the NE, which has too short a stock.
number did not remain constant over the ensuing tests.
An industrialist who sails had his engineering staff design the “perfect” anchor. He submitted the stainless steel prototype for testing. It was with- drawn, unnamed, after the first round. Although said to be undergoing mod- ifications, it was not heard from again.
An anchor that simply would not set, even in sand, was dropped from subsequent tests, as was a box-like folding anchor really meant for a small boat.
Two other anchors, which were attempts to improve on established designs, proved not as good and were retrieved by their inventors–one a co- owner of one of the world’s most successful anchor manufacturers, the other a dedicated individual.
Meanwhile, other new or lesser-
known anchors were submitted by their creators, including three that strongly challenge established favor- ites. The three are the Barnacle, the Bulwagga and the Spade.
One truth emerges: Be assured that as you read this there are some very ingenious, recusant individuals work- ing diligently to produce an anchor that “does it all.” And it may happen, much to the benefit of all sailors.
In fact, for this phase of the testing, PS has three new anchors, which means that, as before, prior tests in sand and mud must be duplicated to obtain comparable data. The three new anchors are the Herreshoff Bronze, the Hydro-Dyne and the Sea- grip.
In all cases, the size of anchor selected for the tests was determined by asking each manufacturer for the anchor they recommend for a 30'-32' boat anchored in up to 42 knots of wind in sheltered water. (For test purposes, an anchor is considered set when it withstands a 200-lb. load; an anchor meets the above criteria when it withstands a 400-lb. load.)
The 18 anchors in this round of the tests are the 25-lb. Barnacle, the 22-lb.
Left: The Barnacle, shown at the left, is an unusual one-fluke anchor that stows flat. At the right is the Bulwagga anchor that challenges the Spade in every category. The Bulwagga’s only shortcoming: It’s clumsy to handle and difficult to stow.
Above: Shown here are several ‘old reliables’ plus the French-made Spade. From left to right are the CQR, Delta, Spade and two versions of the Supermax, one with a fixed shank, the other adjustable for different type bottoms.
Bruce, the 17-lb. Bulwagga, the 22-lb. Claw, the 35-lb. CQR, the 20-lb. Dan- forth Deepset II, the 22-lb. Delta, the 10-lb. Fortress FX-16, the 15-lb. Hans C-Anchor, the 17-lb. Herreshoff Bronze, the 10-lb. Hydro-Dyne, the 20-lb. Nautical Engineering, the 33- lb. Seagrip, the 26-lb. Supermax Ad- justable, the 26-lb. Supermax, the 16.5- lb. Spade, the 12-lb. Vetus and the 25- lb. West Marine Performance2.
(Practical Sailor has tried unsuc- cessfully to obtain for testing a Ger- man anchor called a Bugel, about which several readers have inquired.)
The 18 anchors in hand defy cate- gorization by type, but an attempt is made in the photos to group the light- weight, twin-fluke types, those re- sembling a plow and those that fit neither category. The three new an- chors—the Herreshoff Bronze, the Hydro-Dyne and the Seagrip—are shown in separate photos.
The Test Procedure
Practical Sailor’s anchor tests are con- ducted in shallow water. Working from boats in deep water was rejected because of numerous difficulties clear- ly evident in the vague results ob- tained in many other anchor tests.
Working in shallow water facili- tates very precise control of the all- important scope, but even more im- portantly permits careful observation by a test team member in the water of exactly what each anchor does. The hauling and measuring equipment is ......

Pahe 3.
securely mounted ashore—on sea- walls, docks or other solid bases.
The objective in this test was first to set each anchor in sand. (Previous experimentation has indicated that an anchor can be considered set when resistance reaches 200 lbs.) The rode then was relaxed.
A load then was applied to a sec- ond rode led back about 140° to 150° off the original rode’s line. The scope was held between 7:1 and 6:1.
Pulling at 90° was rejected as too likely to roll the anchors sideways. Leading back at exactly 180° also was discarded as too likely to induce the anchors to do a back flip. Most prone to doing a back flip are the twin-point lightweight anchors because of their inherently balanced distribution of weight.
As it turned out, experimenting with different angles revealed no sur- prises. Neither did laying an anchor
with an unbal- anced or hinged shank (like the Barnacle and CQR) on one edge or the oth- er. And several
experiments with the lightweight an- chors produced the back flipping men- tioned above. (See photo on page 8)
As a load was applied to the sec- ond rode, the observer in the water noted carefully how each anchor went about realigning itself by either swiv- eling, rolling or flopping on its back. Of particular interest was whether the anchor broke out completely or re- tained some or all of its grip while rotating horizontally in the sand. Then, after the anchor, whether re-set or simply twisted to the new direc- tion, withstood the 200-lb. test, the distance from the “old set” to the “new set” was measured.
The rodes were a 250' continuous piece of 1/2" Samson Super Strong

Page 4.5 1' 6"

Name
Barnacle 1'6"
Bruce 4"
Bulwagga 2'
Claw 2'
CQR 9'
Danforth Deepset II 1'
Delta 5'
Fortress FX-16 6"
Hans C-Anchor no set
Herrreshoff Bronze 3'
Hydro-Dyne no set
Nautical Engineering 14'
Seagrip 7'
Supermax (Adj. shank) 0'0"
Supermax 4'
Spade Model 80 0'0"
Vetus 8'
West Performance2 2'


What Happened
Swiveled in flat plane (tried on both sides)
Rotated horizontally, with little movement
Balanced on 2 flukes, fell over, took hold
Swiveled up and out, then reset
Rolled out on hinged arm, but dug back in
Did not break out flukes, stayed buried
Rolled on side, came loose and dug back in
Swiveled very flat, crown moved very little
Swiveled but then dragged
Rolled out, but stock forced other fluke in
Dragged on its side
Rolled, flopped, short stock finally grabbed
Swiveled, pulled out and reset
Turned in horizontal plane, moved very little
Rolled out, flipped on back, dragged on side
Aligned to new pull with little movement
Rolled out, tripped on stock, flattened, reset
Rolled up 45°, pivoted on 1 fluke, flattened
How Far Moved Before Reset

nylon double braid, the hauling was done with a Harken 32 self-tailing winch, the blocks used were Lewmar and Schaefer ball-bearing models, and the load measurements were done with a calibrated Dillon dynamome- ter with a very handy “max” needle.
The Results
The sandy bottom appeared very reg- ular and the anchors were under con- stant visual observation. Each anchor
was pulled at least once, more if any- thing unusual was observed, such as a long distance to reset.
When the 140° resets were com- pleted, we tried one lightweight an- chor at 180°. After resetting the West Marine Performance2, the rode was reversed to 180°. When the load was applied, the anchor backed straight out of the sand until, when about half out, the shank lifted up and over and, as one would expect, the anchor
flipped on its back. It refused, however, to re- set, even when pulled a consid- erable distance.
It then was noted that the flukes were not pointed down. When lifted from the water, the observer found a clam stuck in the angle between a fluke and the shank! Though unlikely, this is a possible scenario for any lightweight- type anchor. Not only shellfish can cause the flukes to jam, but also a piece of wood, rock, etc.
Once again we were reminded that seemingly minute variations in the bottom can produce magnified differ- ences in how an anchor sets. There- fore, the chart data showing how far each anchor was pulled before setting and satisfying the 200-lb. pull require- ment, should not be regarded as a precise number that will be true in all situations.
Instead of ranking the anchors, Practical Sailor placed them in four groups. The groups, from the poorest to the best, are those that broke free and failed to reset, those that reset in 3' or more, those that reset in 6" to 3' and, finally, those that moved less than 6" while swiveling into the new position.
The anchors that broke free and did not reset, but merely skipped or slid along the sandy ocean bottom, were the Hans C-Anchor and the Hy- dro-Dyne.
The remainder of the anchors, in the other three groups, either did not break out or did reset themselves.
The group that broke out and dragged 3 or more feet before resetting


Page 4+
and holding 200 lbs. included the CQR, the Delta, the Nautical Engi- neering, the Seagrip, the Supermax and the Vetus.
Better test results—meaning that the anchors either didn’t break out completely or that they reset them- selves very quickly in between 6" and 3'—were the Barnacle, the Claw, the Bulwagga, the Danforth Deepset, the Herreshoff Bronze and the West Ma- rine Performance2.
In the best test group, those that did not break out and moved very little (from not measurable to no more than 6"), were the Bruce, the Fortress FX-16, the Supermax (with the ad-
justable shank) and the Spade.
The behavior of each anchor is noted in the comments column of the chart on page 7.
Would the same re- sults prevail in mud or a gravel bottom? The an- swers must await other rounds of this continuing series of tests.
The Bottom Line Although minute differ- ences might not seem important when consider- ing an anchor’s ability to with- stand a pull in a new direction, those that did not break out surely are pref- erable to those
that broke out, moved some distance and re-set. An anchor that must reset itself represents a danger—partly be- cause the bottom might change, de- bris can be picked or the rode can foul the anchor.
The Herreshoff Bronze was a sur- prise. This very handsome new ver- sion of a very traditional anchor set quickly, in 2', and broke out and reset itself in 3'. In sand, its weak point is holding. It dragged at 300 lbs., 100 lbs. short of the 400-lb. requirement. It essentially is a rock anchor.
The best lightweight anchor was the Fortress, which simply swiveled
Left: On the 180° reverse set with the West Performance2, the anchor backed halfway out, flipped on its back and refused to reset. When plucked from the water, a clam was found neatly wedged between the flukes and the shank.This can be a problem with any lightweight anchor.
in a horizontal plane around the shank and took up its new alignment. In the setting and holding tests, the Fortress ranked near the middle.
The performance of the Bruce was no surprise, considering it ranked near the top for setting (in either sand or mud). Because of its mediocre hold- ing power, Practical Sailor recom- mends that if a Bruce is selected, a larger size should be in order. The same is true of the Supermax.
The Bulwagga and the Spade per- formed in a manner that did nothing but enhance the showings they made in the sand/mud setting and holding phases of the PS tests. ■
 
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I remember like it was yesterday... 14 yrs +/- old at the time.

Round about 1966 we pulled into Dering Harbor for protection from oncoming storm. Dering Harbor is a village in the Town of Shelter Island, Suffolk County, LI, New York. Located on the north side of Shelter Island.

Weather prediction suddenly altered from "high wind storm" approaching to hurricane winds anticipated. Dad's boat was a really nice [he and I had spent years restoring it] 38' raised deck, sedan with flybridge. A sport fisher design we used as a family cruiser. She was a highly seaworthy tough-built baby with single 185 hp Perkins Diesel power [which we replaced as her new engine after removing it's original old and tired 155 hp Nordburg Knight gasser.]

It was late afternoon when we pulled up close as possible [leaving enough swing room] to the lee of land in Dering; only a few other boats were at anchor, none too close. We very carefully/firmly-backed-down set a big Danforth anchor. Rode consisted of some 15 feet chain with 5/8" nylon line.

As the sun set... heavy wind had rain pummeling our boat. By late evening the storm winds were getting too serious; dad started the engine. By midnight wind gusts were ferocious. We had to yell for hear one another. As the wind would gust higher dad kept the engine in gear to take tension off the line and anchor. I clearly recall the spot light on front of bridge illuminating the millions of horizontal moving raindrops. Could at times barely see the white anchor line stretched straight out taught coming off bow.

Depending on gusts and engine power that dad applied we could feel the anchor line stretch. As a gust would subside the boat would pull forward as the nylon line's stretch relaxed. Dad was constantly adjusting forward power in respect to momentary needs; his prime intent was to make sure that Danforth stayed set.

By morning dawn the storm was greatly subsiding. The sun actually peaked through and skys began to clear. Looking around the harbor we could see boats to our rear that had dragged anchor and were up against land. The dock area looked a mess as we spied it with binoculars.

Pulling that Danforth up and out of its deep set position was a task. More than once I needed to cleat and chock the anchor line straight vertical while dad [on the bridge] pulled the boat forward over the anchor to break it free.

News reports reported winds over 100 mph. I can just guess at how many mph the strongest gusts were.

We did good. The boat and we five were safe to travel onward. I will never forget that experience!



Egad!


Reading stories like this makes the extra couple hundred bucks for the next size up anchor seem trivial.
 
I have a delta, not the first, previously had danforths. Neither Have failed in fair weather boating and some gail force blows
The spade seems to have an advantage over CQR and Delta in resisting twisting out when rode is sideways. You can imagine CQR & Delta rolling out as one fluke digs in while the other does not have any holding to a side pull.
The Spade also seems to have a larger face catching more ground.

I cannot imagine a Bulwagga or Barnacle sitting on the bow of the boat (ugly) I don't care how well it is rated.

I still maintain that recommended sizes are for fair weather. For me it has always been go one size up with anchor and chain. When I throw over an armful of chain and anchor, I expect the boat to stay put. :D
 
As long as you're not going a size up from a size up or sizes up. I everybody did that we'd soon have ships anchors on boats.

I'm asking you to notice that there are a number of next-gen anchors in the above test. One dosn't need last months product to hold your boat.
 
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............

I still maintain that recommended sizes are for fair weather. For me it has always been go one size up with anchor and chain. When I throw over an armful of chain and anchor, I expect the boat to stay put. :D

As long as you're not going a size up from a size up or sizes up. I everybody did that we'd soon have ships anchors on boats.
Notice I said from the recommended size, as manufacturer recommended.
If there is already a one up, then no need to one up it.
I have taken the "right" size and put it as a backup on a few boats, along wit the attached chain.
 
maybe the pros recognize that 99% of what is discussed is fluff, opinion, or personal preference.

which brings up another issue. I work in the industry, with a supposed “specialty”, but i rarely post in that section on the forum. If someone asks a question or wants a suggestion, i can post an answer based on years of experience and multiple real world examples, and someone can post right after me with an incorrect response that they heard third hand from another forum. Inexperienced boaters have no real way to know which one to believe.

also who is a "pro" on anchoring? I've done way more "cruising type" anchoring as a cruiser than anchoring as a paid mariner. So what of my experiences are pertinent here?

that is the main reason i post in anchoring threads. It’s pretty much all opinion and speculation. I’ve participated in the anchoring tests that everyone is quoting, i’ve done a lot of anchoring personally while cruising, in a lot of different places under a lot of different conditions. I still can’t even come to a conclusion as to which anchor i would choose for my own boat. What i have now works, but i can’t help wonder if there is a better choice.
Also, i don’t think my professional experience would help at all. The commercial boats i’ve operated have all relied on multiple watch-standers, and never on the mostly inadequate anchoring gear that they carried.

fwiw
 
I took a moment to test the stretch of my longest spring line 5/8ths that was 8 plait "Brait".

It was in Alaska on the town floats. I tied the line to the bull rail a few feet aft of the boat (30') and took the other end down to the cross float and pulled on the line. It was probably 32-35' and it seemed more like a rubber band than a nylon line. Seemed like 2-3' of stretch but I'm just guessing. Try it yourself. The notion that one may need to anchor on a extra long scope seems ridiculous to me.

I had always assumed that folks used extra long scope to reduce the angle of pull on the anchor (which it does and I think is beneficial), rather than doing it to increase stretch on their rode. Do some folks feel that they should do it to increase stretch, thinking that would help?
 
I had always assumed that folks used extra long scope to reduce the angle of pull on the anchor (which it does and I think is beneficial), rather than doing it to increase stretch on their rode. Do some folks feel that they should do it to increase stretch, thinking that would help?

IMO - Depending on many circumstances of each anchoring situation... increased scope on rode can and will work well as an assistance item.
 
To this scope issue I believe there is not only a range of how well anchors work at short scope but a range of how well anchors work on long scope. I’m quite sure I read in an anchor test that a certain anchor performed poorly compared to others at long scope. 7-1 .. I think. Not enough to take this theory to the bank but why should it not be so?
I can easily visualize an anchor w too much throat angle breaking out at long scope. I don’t have enough to “sell” my theory but I don’t think it’s a more is always better situation. And such variations would probably show themselves w anchors that have really excellent short scope performance .. like the Manson Supreme. When in it’s working position the angle between the seafloor and the anchor fluke may be too wide, making it easier to break out. Of course other variables like weight, chain and blade area will no doubt affect reality also.

That would suggest that all anchors at a variety of scopes probably has an optimum scope. I think every anchor has a scope that is optimum assuming that variables are considered. Results would be variable especially re rode and it’s weight. But I’m thinking a scope of 6-1 to 7-1 should be best for optimum holding power. So yes I’m saying 8-1 or 9-1 wouldn’t show any gain but actually a loss in holding power. In the worst storm I’ve been in we were at 5-1.
 
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