Maxwell/Nilsson Windlass Model?

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Need some help identifying the model number. I don't see any identifying marks that would tell me this. On the net the only reference was to Maxwell anchors out of New Zealand. Same company? I am trying to find an owner manual for it. The chain isn't connected to the anchor becuase I am replacing the chain, just in case you were wondering....

[Larry M]

It looks like the V1000. Here's a copy of the manual.

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Thanks Larry! Do you have the same windlass?

[Larry M]

No, but I've worked on a few. They're a good windlass and you can still get parts, including motors, thru a couple of companies in Australia and New Zealand.

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Thanks. Now I have to figure out how to work it. I have never had a windlass before................Any advice?

[Larry M]

Play at the dock or in your slip. It's the best place to practice getting use to the manual controls (especially the clutch handles) and the foot peddles on raising and deploying your anchor.

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Originally Posted by Larry M

Play at the dock or in your slip. It's the best place to practice getting use to the manual controls (especially the clutch handles) and the foot peddles on raising and deploying your anchor.

Will do. So does this windlass have free fall feature or is it all electrical?

[Larry M]

Originally Posted by Alaskan Sea-Duction

Will do. So does this windlass have free fall feature or is it all electrical?

Yup, you can free fall your anchor via the clutch handles manually.

[FF]

Remember the windlass does not break out the anchor.

The drill is to allow the windlass to bring aboard the chain as the boat is moved up under power.

When directly over the anchor the deck mounted chain stopper is engaged and the Fwd momentum of the boat pulls the anchor out.

Then the windlass brings the anchor up to the deck, as you scrub the heck out of every link of chain to not get mud below.

The mud is full of critters that will die in the anchor locker and the boat will smell like low tide.

Anchored the windlass takes no load , either a chain stopper or snubber lines tied into the chain and deck cleats take the load.

A chain box of the right size and shape are required to NOT have the chain pile tumble , and require hand sorting when letting go the anchor.

The windlass is only one part of a chain anchor System , you need it all .

windlass, deck chain stopper, snubber lines , high powered deck wash and a proper chain box to have the easy life .

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Chain stopper? Is this the pin that goes through the chain so you can releive the pressure off the windlass?

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

I have also seen pics of boats that attach two lines to the chain rode once the anchor is set and tie off each line to the bow cleats, thus also releiving the stress off the windlass. Good idea?

The owner's manual isn't very good at telling you (with pics) how to operate the windlass...

[FF]

A chain stopper is bolted to the deck and can take the full load of the chain used to the breaking point.

Ideal Windlass Co page 5 ,, or Galley Maid will have photos of useful units.

2 lines tied to the chain lead to substantial bow cleats works , esp if they are thin and can stretch easilt absorbing shock loads.

Sometimes it will help a boat with too much forward air drag dodge/sail about less at anchor.

[sunvale1]

does your boat have an emergency windlass handle to bring the anchor in manually?I like to see how it's used and what it looks like.
If your windlass has not been used for a spell, good idea to make sure it's not seized. I had a bit of trouble with mine. Same windlass as yours

[petdoc4u]

Ive got one of those. Mine operates only in the UP direction due to the way the motor is wound. Changing polarity will NOT result in this windlass motor turning in the opposite direction despite popular logic. Deployment is by free fall. It is very easy to dissamble the top side by removing the central bolt. Be sure to grease it well via the zirc fittings.
Good luck.

[sunvale1]

My windlass worked in the down position as well. The motor was set up for it. But the windlass had seized up and burned the thermal protection system under the solenoids. I rewired the solenoid unit and bypassed the thermal protection just relying on the breaker.

[sunvale1]

only thing I am still not clear on is the emergency winch handle, how it looks and how it works

[petdoc4u]

Im pretty sure I have one. Next time I am on the boat I will take a look and if I do I will take a couple of pics for you.

[sunvale1]

Originally Posted by petdoc4u

Im pretty sure I have one. Next time I am on the boat I will take a look and if I do I will take a couple of pics for you.

also stick the handle were it supposed to be placed on the winch and that way I can get an idea how and where. Some close ups of the handle with sizes as well as anything pertinent would help a lot. I purchased a big bolt cutter cause I will never again pull up an anchor all chain 125 ft hand over hand.
Thanks
Peter

[Oceania]

I just overhauled my Maxwell Nilsson windlass which was on the 1986 Oceania I bought last spring. It was dry of grease, grease nipples had no bald bearings, and no v seal on the deck. You can get the parts from James Nilsson in New Zealand. Staff are very quick and helpful. Parts came to me in Rockport, Ontario in a week.


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[sunvale1]

Originally Posted by Oceania

I just overhauled my Maxwell Nilsson windlass which was on the 1986 Oceania I bought last spring. It was dry of grease, grease nipples had no bald bearings, and no v seal on the deck. You can get the parts from James Nilsson in New Zealand. Staff are very quick and helpful. Parts came to me in Rockport, Ontario in a week.


Sent from my iPad using Trawler Forum

did the same thing. They were very helpful and gave me all sorts of advise. I still like to know how the emergency handle for the Maxwell Nilsson 1000 looks and operates