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03-27-2015, 07:16 AM
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#1
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Guru
City: Joe Wheeler State Park, Al
Vessel Name: Serenity
Vessel Model: Mainship 36 Dual Cabin -1986
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,251
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Gauge Removal
I am going to replace my old gauges with new ones. The old gauges are VDO gauges and I am replacing them with Lido Pro Gauges.
Problem: How do I remove these older gauges.
They don't have the little metal bracket. They look like they may screw on but I cant seem to break them loose. Maybe I am doing it wrong.
Any hints?
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Cruising the Eastern U.S. Inland Waterways and Gulf Coast. Presently on the ICW in Louisiana and heading Back to Texas.
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03-27-2015, 07:31 AM
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#2
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Guru
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,600
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A picture would help, but all my VDO gages are screwed in with a plastic collar.
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Jay Leonard
New Port Richey,Fl
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03-27-2015, 07:36 AM
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#3
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Guru
City: Joe Wheeler State Park, Al
Vessel Name: Serenity
Vessel Model: Mainship 36 Dual Cabin -1986
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,251
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Would be hard for me to get a picture under the dash.
Are you referring to the whole below the dash part as the coller?
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Cruising the Eastern U.S. Inland Waterways and Gulf Coast. Presently on the ICW in Louisiana and heading Back to Texas.
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03-27-2015, 07:40 AM
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#4
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Guru
City: Ft Pierce
Vessel Name: Sold
Vessel Model: Was an Albin 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 25,406
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Every gauge I have worked with has some type of rear clamp.
Either on brass posts or friction grips along the side.
If just screw heads back there....is there some form of cover over all of them and someone replaced the brass posts with machine screws?
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03-27-2015, 07:55 AM
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#5
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Guru
City: Joe Wheeler State Park, Al
Vessel Name: Serenity
Vessel Model: Mainship 36 Dual Cabin -1986
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,251
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having internet problems, hope this uploads
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Cruising the Eastern U.S. Inland Waterways and Gulf Coast. Presently on the ICW in Louisiana and heading Back to Texas.
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03-27-2015, 07:58 AM
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#6
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Guru
City: Joe Wheeler State Park, Al
Vessel Name: Serenity
Vessel Model: Mainship 36 Dual Cabin -1986
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,251
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One more
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Cruising the Eastern U.S. Inland Waterways and Gulf Coast. Presently on the ICW in Louisiana and heading Back to Texas.
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03-27-2015, 09:30 AM
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#7
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Guru
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,600
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Yes I think there is a collar that holds them in place.
However, I guess it would be possible to simply screw them in if the hole were the correct size.
But now that I zoomed in on your pics it looks like maybe the dash was too thick and the threads did not protrude???
I would remove the wires on one and try to twist from the bottom if you can. I wonder if they are epoxied in place because the clamp ring wouldn't fit?
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Jay Leonard
New Port Richey,Fl
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03-27-2015, 10:48 AM
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#8
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Guru
City: Everett, WA
Vessel Model: Ocean Alexander 38'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 737
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Is there enough slack in the wires that you can remove the Philips screws and pull out the whole dash assembly? That's what I do, makes it way easier.
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03-27-2015, 10:59 AM
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#9
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Guru
City: Cypress Landing Marina (NC)
Vessel Name: Heron (2)
Vessel Model: '88 Cape Dory 28 Flybridge #115
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jleonard
Yes I think there is a collar that holds them in place.
However, I guess it would be possible to simply screw them in if the hole were the correct size.
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Yup...looks like a screw on collar from here..You can see the flutes. .Most all gauges are a standard 2 1/16" (52mm) size..
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Steve
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03-27-2015, 12:07 PM
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#10
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Guru
City: UMR MM283
Vessel Name: Northern Lights II
Vessel Model: Bayliner 3870
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,357
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If I can ask why are you replacing them? I had gauges on a boat several years ago that the covers were cloudy on. I was going to replace the gauges but then found out the covers could be replaced for less than a $1.00 each. They were Faria gauges.
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Ron on Northern Lights II
I don't like making plans for the day because the word "premeditated" gets thrown around in the courtroom.
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03-27-2015, 12:48 PM
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#11
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Guru
City: Joe Wheeler State Park, Al
Vessel Name: Serenity
Vessel Model: Mainship 36 Dual Cabin -1986
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,251
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River Cruiser
My gauges and senders are old and inaccurate. I'm sure cleaning up the terminals will help a lot of that. My original plan was to make a new dashboard and replace the entire set-up. Well, I bought the gauges and didn't have time to learn the program for setting up the blueprint for the new dashboard to be fabricated. Now all I want to do is replace everything. I bought white gauges which I like better than black ones and the wire ends will be cleaned up along the way.
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Cruising the Eastern U.S. Inland Waterways and Gulf Coast. Presently on the ICW in Louisiana and heading Back to Texas.
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03-27-2015, 03:16 PM
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#12
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Guru
City: Annapolis
Vessel Model: 58' Sedan Bridge
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 6,076
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Tony, I can't tell if you've done it already or not... but if you remove the screws holding the silver panel (in your first picture) to the gelcoat, the whole thing should lift out enough for you to work on connections from the front, so to speak (without having to climb under and into the helm).
It does look to me like there's a collar on each gauge. Ours simply drop in the hole, and a plastic collar attaches to the back (with two screws each) and snugs the gauge down to a removable panel. Look like yours do to, although the "collar" in the back (assuming I see one) seems to work differently than ours.
If you go here CruzPro T60 Digital Water Temperature Gauge and Alarm for example, and then download the user's manual, it has a pic (page 5) of how CruzPro does it. It's slightly different from our current Faria gauges, but should illustrate what I think is the situation for you.
-Chris
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Chesapeake Bay, USA
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03-27-2015, 04:53 PM
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#13
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Guru
City: Joe Wheeler State Park, Al
Vessel Name: Serenity
Vessel Model: Mainship 36 Dual Cabin -1986
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,251
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I spent this afternoon removing and labeling some of the shorter wires that might hold me back a little.
Tomorrow I will cut the juice to the instrument panel (with luck, get it all) and pull the dash back about 8 or 10 inches and try unscrewing them. Maybe that will work.
I'm a little nervous about it because if any of the wires come loose, I might not be able to figure out where they came from.
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Cruising the Eastern U.S. Inland Waterways and Gulf Coast. Presently on the ICW in Louisiana and heading Back to Texas.
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03-27-2015, 08:50 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
City: North Port, FL
Vessel Name: Seven Tenths (sold)
Vessel Model: Mirage / Great Harbour 47
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 477
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Tony
I did a similar project last year. I did one guage at a time and put different color tape for each guage and then numbered each wire. Work slow and take LOTS of photos.
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03-28-2015, 07:04 AM
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#15
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Guru
City: Ft Pierce
Vessel Name: Sold
Vessel Model: Was an Albin 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 25,406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony B
I spent this afternoon removing and labeling some of the shorter wires that might hold me back a little.
Tomorrow I will cut the juice to the instrument panel (with luck, get it all) and pull the dash back about 8 or 10 inches and try unscrewing them. Maybe that will work.
I'm a little nervous about it because if any of the wires come loose, I might not be able to figure out where they came from.
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The regular set of gauges is really pretty easy to do.
They are labeled in the back and if at some place the wire bundle going to them has the properly colored wires for the type of sender...it is really not confusing.
Half the wiring mess back there is just for the gauge lighting, which is just jumping from light to light, and so is pos, neg to each gauge to power them.
Don't fret too much...the real question for me doing it every time is how to make up the jumpers, one connection for each wire end or connect two into one ring/spade.....daisy chain them or take them all to a buss bar.....decisions...decisions....
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