Depth Sounder Question(s)

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DJK

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Oct 16, 2021
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I am working on a late 80's Nordic Tug that came to me with a Cybernet CDF-500 Marine Depth Finder. I can't find any information on these units so assume that they are no longer made. The attached pics show the inside of the transducer and the transducer plug. While the sounder works reasonably well I'm exploring upgrade options. Is this type of transducer compatible with newer sounders? What specs. make this a yes or no?
What are my options without hauling out and replacing the transducer?
 

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Not sure what the percentage is but it seems that most transducers are made by Airmar. I would contact them and see what may be compatible.
 
Id guess that the Cybernet operates on a frequency of 200kHz so another low-powered depth indicator would work with your existing 'ducer but then you would have to locate a plug that would work with your new unit and splice it in to the existing cable. If the system works, it would be money well spent to either leave it as a backup or replace the entire system.
 
As mentioned most transducers are made by Airmar. While everyone says you can’t repurpose transducers between different manufacturers, I have done exactly that on many occasions. However, there is no guarantee so be careful not to spend money hoping something will work.

Airmar puts all the important information on a tag usually located with in 6’ of either end of the transducer cable. See if you can find that tag and get us the info. It will help with pointing you in the right direction.
 
Ditto the above. I have done it twice, once using a 1985 furuno transducer and splicing it to a 2005 sounder, and another time taking a Garmin xducer for a furuno sounder.
 
While the transducer May or may not be used with other DF machines, the hole in the bottom is pretty much a standard size. Just about any of today’s marine electronics manufacturers will have a transducer that will fit perfectly in the hole IF you save the fairing block
Another option is to use an Airmar P79 Shoot-Through-The-Hull transducer that mounts inside the hull without hauling the boat. It connects via NMEA 0183 or 2000 interface of a multi function display. Just leave the old TD in place for now.
 
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While the transducer May or may not be used with other DF machines, the hole in the bottom is pretty much a standard size. Just about any of today’s marine electronics manufacturers will have a transducer that will fit perfectly in the hole IF you save the fairing block
Another option is to use an Airmar P79 Shoot-Through-The-Hull transducer that mounts inside the hull without hauling the boat. It connects via NMEA 0183 or 2000 interface of a multi function display. Just leave the old TD in place for now.

You don't need a purpose-built transducer to shoot through the hull. The only difference is the shoot through doesn't have the through hull mounting. That should make them cheaper but is usually not the case. Most any ducer that doesn't have a speed wheel can be glued inside the hull and work as well as one made to do that. Many times the cheapest choice is a transom mount, and sometimes the display comes with a transom mount and if you want through hull you have to buy that separately. I just glue the transom mount inside the hull and call it done. One of mine has a built in temperature sensor and even that seems to work well, I'm guessing it may be reading a shade higher being inside the hull. Laminated fiberglass is a pretty poor heat insulator so the inside of the hull skin should be pretty close to the outside temperature.
Many recommend mounting the ducer with epoxy, but if you do that you'll never be able to remove it without destroying it. I use clear silicone, it works just as well and can be peeled off later if you need.
 
Thanks for the input. It appears that my best option may be to leave the current system as is for backup and to install a new sounder with a through-hull transducer. It appears that these have come a long way in the last number of years.

I mainly use the sounder for close-quarter navigation and anchouring. What are your recommendations?
 

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